Sway bars and end links
#1
Sway bars and end links
Not affiliated with "Speedway"
This weekend I installed both front and rear "H&R" sway bars. The rear was very simple and straight forward. The front took it bit more work but still seemed simple. On the front the short cut is to loosen the subframe connector for the lower control arm. This was easier for me as I had the arms out to replace the bushings. The attached photos show just the rear installation along with my home-made end links. They're all steel and the total cost was under $50.00 dollars including the bolts from the local hardware store. They're both RH female and male Heim joints. There was no need for both RH and LH adjustment. If I need to make any adjustment I will just unscrew the end link and re-tighten it. Although I am sure the Tarett drop links are good, I think these are stronger and much more affordable. There is a handful of websites that the Heim joints can be found on.
Driving impressions: After scouring the forum regarding the sways I was apprehensive about using them. Thought I'd try them and take them off if I wasn't happy. I don't think I'll be taking them off soon. They are a tad stiffer in the comfort department. The steering response and input is incredible. I am sure poor roads will loosen a few fillings, but I try to avoid those anyway. What really impressed me was the high speed stability. Top notch. I'll keep you posted if the ride seems to degrade to the point that I can no longer take it. As for now I am more than pleased I did it.
Last edited by OverBoosted28; 09-16-2013 at 08:44 PM. Reason: additional info
#2
those drop links look nice, mine are worn out and noisy, I think I'll try to make some too.
btw I thought for aftermarket sway bars, the bars are supposed to fit under the suspension components and not above (=stock position -like you have them in your pic)?
btw I thought for aftermarket sway bars, the bars are supposed to fit under the suspension components and not above (=stock position -like you have them in your pic)?
#3
During my search about the bars and their installation I also found confusion about where they mount .I kept at it and was able to confirm that the H&R's are the same as the stock bars (not RS) only thicker. Although the car is lowered it's at about euro height, not euro RS height. The stock bar was fine and had no issues. Center to center the rear links are about 3.5" inches. I ended up at about 3.3"-3.25" inches after taking out any pre-load.
BTW. I thought I had done a good job and accomplished something after the bars and the urethane bushings. Then I saw your alignment thread and felt like a 1st grader again :-). Nice stuff
BTW. I thought I had done a good job and accomplished something after the bars and the urethane bushings. Then I saw your alignment thread and felt like a 1st grader again :-). Nice stuff
Last edited by OverBoosted28; 09-17-2013 at 11:45 AM. Reason: More info
#4
#5
Fitted my H & R Sway bar kit today, only driving home in the dark and traffic so no real test as yet but it does seem to have tightened up the front nicely! Rear drop links added like above too as the Bilstein ones are shyte, shame we cant do something on the front droplinks
#7
If the struts are put in with original sways and set up so there wasn't any pre-load, the perch shouldn't move when tightened properly. I contacted Bilstien to see if I could purchase a second lock nut for each side to sandwich the perch. They said none were available for the application. I think the rep (sounded about 15 yrs old) didn't really grasp what I was asking for and just wanted to get off of the phone. As it stands now I have not had the perch's move and innitially wanted the extra nut as a precaution. We'll see and I may try again if it moves. Just about done fabbing up beefy rear adjustable toe, camber & kinematic arms. Pics coming soon. :-)
Also, if you look at the pics of the struts you can see that the lock nut above the perch would not have clearance on the bottom of it. May have to fab or source the nut elsewhere.
Also, if you look at the pics of the struts you can see that the lock nut above the perch would not have clearance on the bottom of it. May have to fab or source the nut elsewhere.
Trending Topics
#8
I am putting PS6's on my 993TT next week. What is the benefit from adding these pieces? I just changed my bushings and paid for an alignment and am now having to realign the car after I put on the PS6's. Should I do this now since I am looking at a realignment?
What else should I consider doing when the shocks are changed? (FY, I can't lower mine due to my driveway). I will be mostly road but with some track and I want my car to drive nice and tight!
What else should I consider doing when the shocks are changed? (FY, I can't lower mine due to my driveway). I will be mostly road but with some track and I want my car to drive nice and tight!
#13
#14
Do the 993 H&R sways also use the non-greased Teflon bushings? If so, those have been an absolute disaster for me on BMWs. I strongly recommend some marine grease or similar to avoid a) wearing out the bushing, and b) severely corroding the sway bar, both of which result in nasty clunking.
#15