WingChun

There is no CEL in limp mode.

Just recently I had my car running fine (max boost, no flat spots etc) and I had already setup the wastegate actuators with a dial gauge and air pump, but I was curious, can I squeeze just a little more boost out of it?

Based on the info in some old posts, I experimented by tightening the wastegate screws a few turns extra.

When I tried to accelerate, the ecu instantly limited the boost to 0.5 bar, all the way up, hence "limp mode".
There was no CEL and nothing on the Durametric when I checked.

Turned them back to previous setting and all was good again.

Pry

So the limp mode should go away by itself when the fault is fixed?

When I do a pull from 3000 rpm to redline I only see 0.5 bar max.
When I go wide open throttle from 5000 rpm I instantly hit 0.8 bar.
Is this normal behavior if I have a faulty boost control valve or a faulty MAF?
This probably can't be the limp mode because it's possible to hit over 0.5 bar?

If I buy a durametric diagnostic tool can I tell from the values if my MAF is working correctly or not?

The dealer wasn't able to fix the issue even though they said it should be working ok.

WingChun

Limp mode is just temporary protection by the ECU and in my case was caused by overboost, which it cleared once I reset the wastegate tension.

Could your MAF be faulty? - Yes, try cleaning it first but be careful.

Also try another boost control valve as you mention.

I think others have already touched on wastegate actuators, so don't rule these out they can fail or be incorrectly adjusted.

There are details on how to set these up in the factory manual or search old posts, there is a wealth of information on these cars.

I have found the Durametric very useful in diagnostics, especially for resetting codes and logging can be done to files.

Mass air readings can be displayed but I don't know what values the program is looking for.

Keep looking, you will find the issue.

JHR55

just wonder if there is a simple test to check the turbos are working as they should?

Pry

Will the intercooler hoses pop off before they leak if they don't have any cuts?
So it probably can't be that the clamps aren't tight enough and leak?

OverBoosted28

Pry, when you think about it, if the clamps are loose enough and it's not developing pressure it is possible for the hoses to stay on. The hoses usually blow off once the pressure has developed enough to defeat the integrity of the boost hoses. They're pretty stout when newer. So if you had older failing clamps and newer hoses it would build up boost and then blow off. If it's not sound from the get go it just won't build up enough pressure. Just because they're not coming off doesn't indicate they're secure, especially if pressure is lost elsewhere and or it's not even building in the first place. Lots of variables to chase down. Start at the cheapest, keep looking and when you're out of money you MAY find the problem.

Pry

Ok, thanks. That makes sense.
From where do you recommend checking the turbo side clamp?
I can't even see the turbo if I follow the hoses from the intercooler side because they go through a panel. They are also a real pain to access from under the car.

Quadcammer

If you take the mufflers off, you may be able to access through the muffler mounting bracket. I was able to get to mine with a swivel and long extension.

OverBoosted28

You'll need both rear wheels and mufflers off to properly access them. You want to be in there and make sure the hose ends are square to the turbocharger, completely seated and not canted. If you find the hose ends are chewed up replace them. If you do, trim away a little of the tin to make access and installation easier. The tin on each side runs about the length of 2/3rds of the valve cover above it starting at the rear. There is another round piece of tim tac welded into those, at each opening. Trim this round piece in small amounts and then smooth it out and remove any sharp edges. DO NOT LET ANYTHING FALL INTO TURBOS! You can cover somehow while doing it. I use a 1 1/2" ABS pipe (rubber) plumbing test cap. You can put a rag inside and cover with surgical glove. I'll find a pic and post it. T-Bar clamps all around

OverBoosted28

Here you go. You probably don't want to trim as much as I did. If you're not going to trim anything you don't need to remove the muffler mounting bracket like in the picture. Take care

Pry

Thank you guys! That helps a lot.

Pry

The problem ended up to be cracked boost hose from the turbo end and also wrongly adjusted throttle cable. I feel like an idiot not noticing the latter earlier.