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Winterization Question

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Old 01-19-2012, 08:58 AM
  #31  
No HTwo O
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Originally Posted by Quadcammer
You have a low mileage fairly pristine car I imagine. My old beater can handle some salt at this point in its life.
Oliver, prior to winter storage, I had about 57,000 miles on the Turbo. When I bought it in November 2009 it had 32,000 miles. I only treat it like a garage queen.
Old 01-19-2012, 08:28 PM
  #32  
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It is not the cold or the snow, but yes the salt and now the beet juice / pre salt mix.

A little salt . . . ha, some times they drop so much on a left/right turn or stop that it makes a speed bump till the spring rains (or till a snow plow finds it).

A little salt . . my (5 year old) drive way cement apron where it meets the road looks like the back wall of a shooting range. They don't call it the rust belt for nothing . . .
Old 01-23-2012, 07:41 PM
  #33  
ronnie993tt
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It's way easier to plug the CTEK unit into the cigarette lighter and keeps the frunk closed to mickies. I don't believe this cylinder rusting stuff. Stored my Datsun 260Z - not exactly Porsche quality - in a cold damp Toronto garage for 36 years and covered almost 90,000 miles. Still has all original paint, runs great and consumes no oil. Brakes get a fine layer of rust over the winter but less than if it sat in the rain for a day. 993tt occupies the space now. I use heavy M1 20W50 so I only start her up on salt free +40F days and do a 25 mile drive.
Old 01-23-2012, 08:46 PM
  #34  
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It is very important that your car is kept under cover so if you don't have a garage you should build one immediately. A concrete floor is a must. 6" of concrete over 6" of bank run gravel with 10 mil vapor barrier. It is best if the walls are built of stone, 12" minimum thickness,with a slate roof with 16" rigid foam insulation. All openings should have have an inflatable gasket like pressurized aircraft. If you must have windows they should be triple glazed with with a film filtering out both ultra violet and infa red spectrums of natural
light. Before putting car in garage the interior and exterior and engine compartment should be washed with deionized distilled pwater. This is best done during a full moon because of the polarized light issue. At this point all should be dried thoroughly with goat chamois from 6 yr or younger female goat. Roll car into garage without touching car. Remove brake discs and submerge in 10weight Mobil 1 oil. Clean and oil all leather with Lexol. Close all doors to only first click. Close garage doors, windows and inflate gaskets. Start dedicated emergency generator to activate dehumidifier and before leaving garage spread 500lbs of desicant on concrete floor. Attach hose to 2" exit port in door. Run vacuum pump to maintain 1" of vacuum for duration of storage period.
light issue.
Old 01-23-2012, 11:01 PM
  #35  
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Solomonschris, I think you forgot to add, sacrifice 10 virgins to the porsche gods for save storage through the winter.
Old 01-23-2012, 11:09 PM
  #36  
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I don't know where to finf 10 virgins
Old 01-23-2012, 11:43 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by solomonschris
It is very important that your car is kept under cover so if you don't have a garage you should build one immediately. A concrete floor is a must. 6" of concrete over 6" of bank run gravel with 10 mil vapor barrier. It is best if the walls are built of stone, 12" minimum thickness,with a slate roof with 16" rigid foam insulation. All openings should have have an inflatable gasket like pressurized aircraft. If you must have windows they should be triple glazed with with a film filtering out both ultra violet and infa red spectrums of natural
light. Before putting car in garage the interior and exterior and engine compartment should be washed with deionized distilled pwater. This is best done during a full moon because of the polarized light issue. At this point all should be dried thoroughly with goat chamois from 6 yr or younger female goat. Roll car into garage without touching car. Remove brake discs and submerge in 10weight Mobil 1 oil. Clean and oil all leather with Lexol. Close all doors to only first click. Close garage doors, windows and inflate gaskets. Start dedicated emergency generator to activate dehumidifier and before leaving garage spread 500lbs of desicant on concrete floor. Attach hose to 2" exit port in door. Run vacuum pump to maintain 1" of vacuum for duration of storage period.
light issue.
Nicely done. You forgot to mention; leave the hood and engine cover unlatched. It avoids flatspotting, just as the door first latch only method.
Old 01-24-2012, 12:11 AM
  #38  
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I suspect there is no end to what I forgot
Old 01-24-2012, 09:43 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by solomonschris
It is very important that your car is kept under cover so if you don't have a garage you should build one immediately. A concrete floor is a must. 6" of concrete over 6" of bank run gravel with 10 mil vapor barrier. It is best if the walls are built of stone, 12" minimum thickness,with a slate roof with 16" rigid foam insulation. All openings should have have an inflatable gasket like pressurized aircraft. If you must have windows they should be triple glazed with with a film filtering out both ultra violet and infa red spectrums of natural
light. Before putting car in garage the interior and exterior and engine compartment should be washed with deionized distilled pwater. This is best done during a full moon because of the polarized light issue. At this point all should be dried thoroughly with goat chamois from 6 yr or younger female goat. Roll car into garage without touching car. Remove brake discs and submerge in 10weight Mobil 1 oil. Clean and oil all leather with Lexol. Close all doors to only first click. Close garage doors, windows and inflate gaskets. Start dedicated emergency generator to activate dehumidifier and before leaving garage spread 500lbs of desicant on concrete floor. Attach hose to 2" exit port in door. Run vacuum pump to maintain 1" of vacuum for duration of storage period.
light issue.
That is brilliant...



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