Can the Durametric tell me if I'm in "limp mode"
#1
Can the Durametric tell me if I'm in "limp mode"
I'm about to pull the trigger on a durametric but want to know if it has this capability.
I seem to be limited to .5 bar on the boost.
Anyone have any experience with this?
I seem to be limited to .5 bar on the boost.
Anyone have any experience with this?
#3
That does indeed sound like either 1) "limp" mode, 2) your boost gauge is inaccurate, or 3) you have some boost leakage (hose might be loose). Sorry, I don't know about the Durametric.
#5
How would I use the Durametric to test the MAF?
I also read somewhere that our MAF is the same one used in a VW but at a fraction of the price. Anyone heard this?
#6
I had boost limited to 0.5 bar and tried to check it out with the durametric but it has no details about "limp mode".
Problem turned out to be loose IC hose clip on the turbo end.
Tightened hose, boost back to 0.8!
Problem turned out to be loose IC hose clip on the turbo end.
Tightened hose, boost back to 0.8!
#7
The Durametric will not say "limp home mode" when you scan it, but if you see MAF sensor and/or IAT sensor codes in the DME control module, that will likely be your clue. The DME is expecting to see certain air mass/intake air temp values at any given load/throttle position/RPM. If these values exceed certain preset parameters, the DME will set plausibility fault codes and limit boost.
Like others have said, check for boost leaks first.
You say that you have an open intake and that your just cleaned your MAF sensor; I personally have no experience with aftermarket intakes on 993TTs, and that is for a reason. Most of them do nothing but draw in hotter air than the factory setup, and do not filter as well, thus requiring oil on the filters to trap dirt which in turn coats the fine wires on the MAF sensor, contaminating them and causing failure. Cleaning them is a band-aid at best, they should be replaced.
As for the VW rumor, don't do it! There were a lot of people on BMW E39 M5 boards ogling about some sort of diesel VW MAF sensor that was supposedly interchangable and a lot cheaper (the E39 has 2 MAF sensors and they are a common failure item, we replace a lot of them). Turns out somebody actually did some empirical testing, and the VW MAF did not have the range to measure the airflow at higher load/RPMs (a race-bred 7,500 RPM V8 vs a VW 4 cyl diesel, go figure!). I would not chance this on a turbocharged Porsche engine.
As for the Durametric, if you are an enthusiast who likes to work on his own car, go for it if you have the money (you should have it if you own a 993TT). It gives you a lot more info than a generic OBDII reader will. It is good enough for code reading and reading actual values and such, but you cannot activate anything via bidirectional controls, and I remember it not having any useful fault code info. My shop bought one back in '05 right when the 987/997 came out, as it could reset the service indicator lights in the dash, and Porsche would not sell the PIWIS scan tool to independents yet. I remember it freezing and crashing a lot, though it may be better now. A few months later we got a PIWIS and never looked back so I honestly never played with the Durametric much, and it collects dust somewhere in a drawer (anybody want it for cheap? ;-)
Like others have said, check for boost leaks first.
You say that you have an open intake and that your just cleaned your MAF sensor; I personally have no experience with aftermarket intakes on 993TTs, and that is for a reason. Most of them do nothing but draw in hotter air than the factory setup, and do not filter as well, thus requiring oil on the filters to trap dirt which in turn coats the fine wires on the MAF sensor, contaminating them and causing failure. Cleaning them is a band-aid at best, they should be replaced.
As for the VW rumor, don't do it! There were a lot of people on BMW E39 M5 boards ogling about some sort of diesel VW MAF sensor that was supposedly interchangable and a lot cheaper (the E39 has 2 MAF sensors and they are a common failure item, we replace a lot of them). Turns out somebody actually did some empirical testing, and the VW MAF did not have the range to measure the airflow at higher load/RPMs (a race-bred 7,500 RPM V8 vs a VW 4 cyl diesel, go figure!). I would not chance this on a turbocharged Porsche engine.
As for the Durametric, if you are an enthusiast who likes to work on his own car, go for it if you have the money (you should have it if you own a 993TT). It gives you a lot more info than a generic OBDII reader will. It is good enough for code reading and reading actual values and such, but you cannot activate anything via bidirectional controls, and I remember it not having any useful fault code info. My shop bought one back in '05 right when the 987/997 came out, as it could reset the service indicator lights in the dash, and Porsche would not sell the PIWIS scan tool to independents yet. I remember it freezing and crashing a lot, though it may be better now. A few months later we got a PIWIS and never looked back so I honestly never played with the Durametric much, and it collects dust somewhere in a drawer (anybody want it for cheap? ;-)
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#8
993TT
Disconnect battery overnight, reconnect, get warm, & see if you get .8 bar back, if you do, you might have gunked up Maf? Mine would return & then just go back to .5 again & I'd get passed by sl55's & Subaru's!
#9
Chris,
Thanks for the advice. A few questions;
Are these codes that would not trigger a CEL as I do not have one and a scan with an OBDII reader yields no current or pending codes.
I do have a Ross-Tech VagCom which is capable of reading, logging, and charting actual values for MAF, RPM, IAT, etc. Is there a way to test it using that info?
You say that you have an open intake and that your just cleaned your MAF sensor; I personally have no experience with aftermarket intakes on 993TTs, and that is for a reason. Most of them do nothing but draw in hotter air than the factory setup, and do not filter as well, thus requiring oil on the filters to trap dirt which in turn coats the fine wires on the MAF sensor, contaminating them and causing failure. Cleaning them is a band-aid at best, they should be replaced.
Do you mean replace the MAF or the air filter and open airbox? Luckily I retained the original airbox and have a brandy new OEM air filter. What about reinstalling the OEM airbox with the K&N filter in it?
PM sent regarding buying your Durametric.
Thanks!
Thanks for the advice. A few questions;
The Durametric will not say "limp home mode" when you scan it, but if you see MAF sensor and/or IAT sensor codes in the DME control module, that will likely be your clue. The DME is expecting to see certain air mass/intake air temp values at any given load/throttle position/RPM. If these values exceed certain preset parameters, the DME will set plausibility fault codes and limit boost.
I do have a Ross-Tech VagCom which is capable of reading, logging, and charting actual values for MAF, RPM, IAT, etc. Is there a way to test it using that info?
You say that you have an open intake and that your just cleaned your MAF sensor; I personally have no experience with aftermarket intakes on 993TTs, and that is for a reason. Most of them do nothing but draw in hotter air than the factory setup, and do not filter as well, thus requiring oil on the filters to trap dirt which in turn coats the fine wires on the MAF sensor, contaminating them and causing failure. Cleaning them is a band-aid at best, they should be replaced.
Thanks!
#10
I don't think its box or filter,from what I understood on mine the MAF was getting wrong readings & telling ECU to reduce boost, you might just need to get MAF cleaner, you spray it all through the inside & directly on the little sensor, don't wipe or rub & let dry
#11
Did that already with CRC MAF cleaner.
#12
Thanks for the advice. A few questions;
Are these codes that would not trigger a CEL as I do not have one and a scan with an OBDII reader yields no current or pending codes.
Are these codes that would not trigger a CEL as I do not have one and a scan with an OBDII reader yields no current or pending codes.
I do have a Ross-Tech VagCom which is capable of reading, logging, and charting actual values for MAF, RPM, IAT, etc. Is there a way to test it using that info?
Do you mean replace the MAF or the air filter and open airbox? Luckily I retained the original airbox and have a brandy new OEM air filter. What about reinstalling the OEM airbox with the K&N filter in it?
Don't use a K&N filter or any other that requires oiling on a hot wire MAF sensor engine.
PM sent regarding buying your Durametric.
Once again, check for boost/vacuum leaks first and eliminate that variable.
#13
The majority of the features do not work but I was able to utilize the OBDII, actual values, and readiness monitor status functions successfully.
I would not replace anything without a proper diagnosis, but I have seen aftermarket intakes cause MAF fault codes on other cars (996s, BMWs), and of course a faulty MAF sensor could cause your issues. I would expect a faulty MAF to set fault codes, but I can usually tell if they are going south by looking at the air mass readings, fuel trim values, etc.
I was having this problem prior to doing a full tune up and valve cover gaskets in which i removed the turbos and all their plumbing as well as the intake runners. Everything was gone over twice with regards to reconnections and tightness. I'm comfortable that is not the issue.
#14
Couple of things to check (if not already):
1. Are the waste gate linkages set correctly from the control boxes and do the gates move freely?
2. Does the boost on the gauge rise, to say .6 or .7 when a WOT is snapped closed, or does it never go above .5?
3. Does the motor seem strong upto .5 boost or struggling?
1. Are the waste gate linkages set correctly from the control boxes and do the gates move freely?
2. Does the boost on the gauge rise, to say .6 or .7 when a WOT is snapped closed, or does it never go above .5?
3. Does the motor seem strong upto .5 boost or struggling?
#15
The motor seems fine. I bet if someone (not an expert on these cars) drove it and did not know about the .5 boost limitation, they would not suspect something was even wrong.
maybe i should try and video the tach and obc so you can see how fast the boost builds up relative to the rpms. would that give any additional clues?
thanks to everyone for their help so far and keep the info coming.