Autocross school
#16
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just to have some fun driving in a relatively safe environment and not worrying about flashing lights in the mirror. If I was really into it, I should get a Boxster/Cayman/914!
#18
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x2 on checking to see if the host makes rentals/freebie helmets available. No one should want to make you put out $100-300 for a helmet for a hobby that might not "stick", so to speak ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
A Turbo is a fine AX car, more often than not at AX, its the DRIVER and NOT the car that matter.. especially with a beginner.. and if you continue, check the ego at the door when the 150hp 944 or worse, 115hp Miata crushes your times
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A Turbo is a fine AX car, more often than not at AX, its the DRIVER and NOT the car that matter.. especially with a beginner.. and if you continue, check the ego at the door when the 150hp 944 or worse, 115hp Miata crushes your times
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#19
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In MD they provide extra loaner helmets, inquire if your chapter does. Why AX a turbo though - hopefully it's not a tight course? Remember to tape up, and don't go too close to guy in front of ya as he might throw crap your way....Remove everything from car, mats, glove compartment bits, etc....lol...stay focused, get a good night sleep, else all the cones would look like they're pointed in the same direction...have fun...
#20
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yeah, here a 914 wins overall everytime. Beats the pants off any other car.
If the course is long enough you may have 2 to a course. You'll never get close to them though.
If the course is long enough you may have 2 to a course. You'll never get close to them though.
#21
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What I meant was at the starting line, if there's not enough room between the two cars, and there's gravel etc, chances are that when the lead car takes off, some of the gravel may fly back. I've seen it happen....oh..typcically there's two cars on track with lots of room between...
Take a blanket or tarp to layout your stuff on...
Take a blanket or tarp to layout your stuff on...
Last edited by TRINITONY; 04-27-2011 at 08:58 AM.
#22
Why do I feel so left out!
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Have a cheap head? Buy a cheap helmet.
Simple.
Simple.
#23
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not so simple - unless you're talking about buying a non-Snell cheapie. Once you have a certified helmet, the extra cost goes towards lighter weight, ventilation and other features. There is no testing of levels - note that Bell and the others do not say their hi buck lid protects any better than their basic SA helmet.
#25
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Apparently the Ferrari Challenge series will be up at Infineon this weekend so I will have to deal with a bunch of girly men at the track! There will be 458's as well as 430's racing. Should be some screaming engines! Of course, I am immune to such sounds!
#26
Why do I feel so left out!
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not so simple - unless you're talking about buying a non-Snell cheapie. Once you have a certified helmet, the extra cost goes towards lighter weight, ventilation and other features. There is no testing of levels - note that Bell and the others do not say their hi buck lid protects any better than their basic SA helmet.
Without sounding harsh - please think however you want, but you clearly have never witnessed or been in a big one......
I am sure that there is passing the test in varying degrees as well - as long as they pass the minimum standard - then they all comply. Agree 100%.
Me? I will pay extra for all of those features like, removable (and denser) padding, adjustable supports and neck / forehead adjustments.
That doesn't even go into the comfort factor or the compatibility of HANS device or the Leatt brace.
Once again if its my head (and in this case a roll cage or steel structure like an A pillar) then i will take the best protection (and chance) possible. There aint no coming back from brain injury.
Simon.
#27
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fwiw, the best fit, perhaps the most important factor, can sometimes be in the less expensive model. If the additional features have value to you, of course go for them. If Snell or even the mfg could document increased protection from a more expensive model, I'd be on it like Kirstie Alley hitting the buffet line.
But they don't.
#28
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i would not recommend ordering on line unless you know the helmet fits your head / face appropriately.
you won't like an uncomfortable fit.
and buy a gaiter / head sock, they absorb the sweat instead of wicking into your helmet liner.
Craig
you won't like an uncomfortable fit.
and buy a gaiter / head sock, they absorb the sweat instead of wicking into your helmet liner.
Craig
#29
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So was up at Infineon yesterday and bought a Bell full face Snell2010 helmet and nomex balaclava. That is a damn expensive head sock! $70!
Got to watch some 430s lapping and the sound was not as impressive as I anticipated. Also was amused by the assortment of F-car owners in attendance. Ran the gamut from the latest 599's to Testarossa's and most stuff inbetween. One guy was puffing on a cigarette in a brand new spyder!!!
I have to say that I prefer P-car owners! Much more real!
Got to watch some 430s lapping and the sound was not as impressive as I anticipated. Also was amused by the assortment of F-car owners in attendance. Ran the gamut from the latest 599's to Testarossa's and most stuff inbetween. One guy was puffing on a cigarette in a brand new spyder!!!
I have to say that I prefer P-car owners! Much more real!
#30
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I got a nomex balaclava way back, and used it when doing hillclimbs. I haven't felt the need when autocrossing -- I generally wear a hat when not using the helmet so it collects some of the sweat. 800+ autocross runs on my old Bell and I don't have an issue with it. Perhaps more of an issue for track use where you have it on for an hour at a time?
I got a Sunprecautions hat and shirt I use for autocross days, and love them. The hat looks a little odd, but I sunburn really easily. Find out if you like autocrossing / track day first.
I agree proper fit on the helmet is a huge deal, both for safety and comfort. For new people most regions do have loaners, but you might be wishing you had a washable balaclave before wearing them depending on how old they are.
Yes, you'll get beat in raw time by A-mod monsters, B-mod Radicals, F125 shifter karts, CSP Miatas, and possibly some street tire Miatas. (For PCA events I imagine you can replace Miata with 914). I once heard a PCA club near my region dis-invited the Miatas because it was too depressing for the Porsche owners (this was a PCA member bringing his SCCA-prepped Miata to a club that has basically all novice autocrossers, so he probably would have beaten them in his 911 on street tires regardless).
You'll have a blast in your turbo, even if isn't The Car for the class. Driver makes a huge difference, which no matter what car you're driving, works against you when you're new and for you when you're an old-timer. I think some cars are easier to drive close to their potential (IMO STi and Evo), some are harder (older S2000, stock Viper, anything with a big turbo). Classing is done based on an expert driver with a lot of experience in the car, so totally ignores how hard it is to stay in a narrow powerband, deal with wonky suspension, handle turbo lag, handle more hp than grip, etc. That's all beside the point right now, just run what you brung, and believe me, everyone there will love what you brung.
I got a Sunprecautions hat and shirt I use for autocross days, and love them. The hat looks a little odd, but I sunburn really easily. Find out if you like autocrossing / track day first.
I agree proper fit on the helmet is a huge deal, both for safety and comfort. For new people most regions do have loaners, but you might be wishing you had a washable balaclave before wearing them depending on how old they are.
Yes, you'll get beat in raw time by A-mod monsters, B-mod Radicals, F125 shifter karts, CSP Miatas, and possibly some street tire Miatas. (For PCA events I imagine you can replace Miata with 914). I once heard a PCA club near my region dis-invited the Miatas because it was too depressing for the Porsche owners (this was a PCA member bringing his SCCA-prepped Miata to a club that has basically all novice autocrossers, so he probably would have beaten them in his 911 on street tires regardless).
You'll have a blast in your turbo, even if isn't The Car for the class. Driver makes a huge difference, which no matter what car you're driving, works against you when you're new and for you when you're an old-timer. I think some cars are easier to drive close to their potential (IMO STi and Evo), some are harder (older S2000, stock Viper, anything with a big turbo). Classing is done based on an expert driver with a lot of experience in the car, so totally ignores how hard it is to stay in a narrow powerband, deal with wonky suspension, handle turbo lag, handle more hp than grip, etc. That's all beside the point right now, just run what you brung, and believe me, everyone there will love what you brung.