Rotors and pads
10-30-2010, 09:56 AM
#18
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Not having any cracks in the rotors is a very good thing. Especially not having any cracks that connect the cross drilled holes. I'd bet your rotors are OK, and you just need to replace the pads.
Also, after washing your car and washing the wheels, take out your leaf blower, and use this to dry off the wheels, rotors, and calipers. You'd be surprised how much dirty and ruster water will blow out. This too may help to silent things and keep things more quiet after the pad change.
Do your brake ever really get "up to temperature"?
Also, after washing your car and washing the wheels, take out your leaf blower, and use this to dry off the wheels, rotors, and calipers. You'd be surprised how much dirty and ruster water will blow out. This too may help to silent things and keep things more quiet after the pad change.
Do your brake ever really get "up to temperature"?
10-30-2010, 12:12 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Pads are the same F & R? What does this mean? Price? Size? I cant think of any way how pads are the same F & R?
Also, for a track pad, I would stay very far away from pagid orange. For whatever reason the orange pads are known to leave deposits (or pad transfer)on rotors causing brake shutter. The Yellows and blacks do not have this problem. THe yellows are their endurnace pad & with our heavy cars work great with no fade and seem to last well. I have found the most efffective setup to be Yellows on the front and blacks in the rear (Blacks have a little more bite on the rear - effectively adds a bit or rear bias to brake system & allows for quicker stopping)
Also, for a track pad, I would stay very far away from pagid orange. For whatever reason the orange pads are known to leave deposits (or pad transfer)on rotors causing brake shutter. The Yellows and blacks do not have this problem. THe yellows are their endurnace pad & with our heavy cars work great with no fade and seem to last well. I have found the most efffective setup to be Yellows on the front and blacks in the rear (Blacks have a little more bite on the rear - effectively adds a bit or rear bias to brake system & allows for quicker stopping)
What are called the BIG RED BRAKES where the standard caliper/rotor set up for the Turbo, RS & Cup Cars. These larger pads, calipers, rotors for the front were to help reduce brake fad with a larger surface area on both the rotor/pad, as well as improved braking (same reason). To your point the pagid Oranges do not transfer any differently the the Yellows or Blacks. The Yellow's are deisgned to provide the same brake modulation as the orange's BUT at a HIGHER Constant HEAT threshold. IF you are not bedding the pads prooperly OR you leave your foot on the brake while pulling into your pit area (so many people do this w/o even being aware) You will high spot (transfer to much material in 1 location) any brake pad material on the market!
Being that we are a pagid supplier I can tell you that starting sometime next year the Pagid Oranges for the rear (1204 pad shape along with the 1203 pad shape) of your car (is being considered) will probably be discontinued from poor sales. These shapes were stopped in Europe last year.
Finally, You brake choice should always be baed on your intended usage...
Street pads if you are only doing 1 or 2 DE's a year more then that start looking at a "Track" based pad compound. You can swap out the pads before & after each event with our fear of bedding issues.
When setting up for track use NEVER mix street compounds with TRACK compounds...
If you want PM me & we can chat about this in Greater detail.
Chris
10-30-2010, 05:27 PM
#20
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Not having any cracks in the rotors is a very good thing. Especially not having any cracks that connect the cross drilled holes. I'd bet your rotors are OK, and you just need to replace the pads.
Also, after washing your car and washing the wheels, take out your leaf blower, and use this to dry off the wheels, rotors, and calipers. You'd be surprised how much dirty and ruster water will blow out. This too may help to silent things and keep things more quiet after the pad change.
Do your brake ever really get "up to temperature"?
Also, after washing your car and washing the wheels, take out your leaf blower, and use this to dry off the wheels, rotors, and calipers. You'd be surprised how much dirty and ruster water will blow out. This too may help to silent things and keep things more quiet after the pad change.
Do your brake ever really get "up to temperature"?
