993tt rotors...... any reasonable upgrades from stock?
02-20-2011, 11:02 PM
#16
Why do I feel so left out!
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BBK is the ONLY way to fly..... (or stop flying)
Either go bolt on kit like the GTs' or waste a heap of money like this fool:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...93tt-pics.html
Simon
Either go bolt on kit like the GTs' or waste a heap of money like this fool:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...93tt-pics.html
Simon
02-21-2011, 02:27 AM
#17
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Fluid (Motul RBF600) isn't boiling, pedal stays hard and no considerable pad fading (can't tell for sure). I have tryed originals, Ferodo 2500, EBC red stuff and yellow stuff. Haven't tryed more agressive pads because I HATE that scream when pads are cold and driving on public roads.
For excample braking from 200kph to 70kph I cant' reach ABS cutting any wheel even I push all I've got from my leg. Which is good, I don't want ABS take a part BUT I can feel with more grip between disk and pad will have postive effect for my braking distance because my tyres can carry more grip when braking.
For excample braking from 200kph to 70kph I cant' reach ABS cutting any wheel even I push all I've got from my leg. Which is good, I don't want ABS take a part BUT I can feel with more grip between disk and pad will have postive effect for my braking distance because my tyres can carry more grip when braking.
02-21-2011, 04:48 AM
#18
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6- or 4-piston caliber? It's confusing you'd think 6 is better than 4, but top of Brembo range calibers are with 4-piston? And 6-piston is heavier. Don't know which ones?
Disk diameter is also confusing you'd think bigger is better. In other hand weight increase and spinning forces increase?
Some brake guru please little help here
Disk diameter is also confusing you'd think bigger is better. In other hand weight increase and spinning forces increase?
Some brake guru please little help here
Recommendation came from Franz Konrad who is most likely the most awarded racer and team in the world with 993GT2s and has tried and tested every combo possible.
02-21-2011, 01:32 PM
#20
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May stay away from EBC in the future... I know one solution is to use proper pad's on track. I have always used those squeak dampers between piston and pad and then quick pad change isn't possible due the dampers stuck very well in pad's. I believe those are helping a lot to cut heat transfer from pad to fluid.
Full Boost -> sorry, but what is BBK?
Thank you Jean, this is high value tip! Slotted or drilled? I prefer slotted, but my opinion is based only in my own disappointment for many cracked drilled disks. And what set up at the rear?
Craig -> As I said I think solutio could be using high performance pad's, but then I need to change pad's every time.
Second reason to change brakes is cosmetik. First full two day session at Nurburgring north loop and Porsche logos was totally cooked.
Well this can repeat in Brembo ones...
Full Boost -> sorry, but what is BBK?
Thank you Jean, this is high value tip! Slotted or drilled? I prefer slotted, but my opinion is based only in my own disappointment for many cracked drilled disks. And what set up at the rear?
Craig -> As I said I think solutio could be using high performance pad's, but then I need to change pad's every time.
Second reason to change brakes is cosmetik. First full two day session at Nurburgring north loop and Porsche logos was totally cooked.
Well this can repeat in Brembo ones...
02-21-2011, 08:22 PM
#22
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If you are not willing to use proper pads for track use then you're wasting your time and money.
After your first track day the glue on the OEM anti-squeal dampers should be cooked enough that you can pull the pads out and swap them. Frankly, I have not found them to be worth using as I've not noticed any difference in squealing without them.
Your caliper logos are cooked because you are not using proper pads and overheating the brakes.
USE TRACK PADS!
After your first track day the glue on the OEM anti-squeal dampers should be cooked enough that you can pull the pads out and swap them. Frankly, I have not found them to be worth using as I've not noticed any difference in squealing without them.
Your caliper logos are cooked because you are not using proper pads and overheating the brakes.
USE TRACK PADS!
03-20-2011, 11:23 AM
#24
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Tell us what you are experiencing that makes you think the brakes aren't enough.
My 930 has 514HP and with the 993TT brakes I have, I assure you there is plenty o' brake there after 120 track days over 11 years - not a newbie here ;-).
Fluid boiling? Soft pedal? Pad fade?
What fluids and pads are you using?
My 930 has 514HP and with the 993TT brakes I have, I assure you there is plenty o' brake there after 120 track days over 11 years - not a newbie here ;-).
Fluid boiling? Soft pedal? Pad fade?
What fluids and pads are you using?
Janina993, I would suggest you for for Pagid Yellow: after trying several pads, these are the one producing the best result (excellent feeling).
What you may try is lightng a little bit your car as well.
Then, on my previous track car (a deeply modified 964 Turbo with 420 hp and 1238 kg), I was re-drilling original disc to facilitate the pad dust going away and keeping more constant brake grips.
This is coming from my car guru with a lot of race track experience and it basically almost doubled the life of my discs (small craks around holes is nothing and even offer more grip: you just have to check it is not reaching the border of the disc).
The original drill is 4.5 mm and we re-drill at 6.5. You have to also re-smooth the holes borders with a conic tool so it looks like an original and won't quickly wear your pads.
On the 911 GT, I have the 380 mm discs and endurance calipers, allowing 24 mm thick pads.
The 380 mm has more surface to dissipate more heat and also the diameter allow better force and it's easier to put the right effort.
Denis
03-20-2011, 12:30 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
Exact same piece of kit here. All slotted, not drilled. Works really well.
03-20-2011, 07:58 PM
#26
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Problem here is that they check the caliper adapter every car check and they don't like this...
I also need to find the right wheels for clearance.
Denis
03-21-2011, 12:02 AM
#27
Three Wheelin'
^^ Luckily that's not an item that's checked where I live, Denis. I use 18" BBS Motorsport wheels (see avatar). You just need to order the correct centers to clear the rotors. After that it's just a matter of adding the two outer barrels to achieve the right offset. I'm sure you could use RUF 19" wheels as well, since they clear the RUF 380's. I prefer 18" wheels on our cars.
