DynoJet Dyno Pull....
#16
Gandalthegray, thanks for posting this.
Do I understand this right? You are getting 408 WHP? Does this mean you are getting about 470 HP at the crank? I am figuring about a 15% loss. Correct??
Do I understand this right? You are getting 408 WHP? Does this mean you are getting about 470 HP at the crank? I am figuring about a 15% loss. Correct??
Last edited by No HTwo O; 02-17-2010 at 02:00 PM.
#17
There is a bit of a dip in the power curve that I want to try to sort out. At around 5100 RPM power falls around 25 HP or so then at around 6000 starts to climb again. Almost if the boost was dumped then starts to build back. IDK.
Last edited by gandalfthegray.; 02-17-2010 at 02:47 PM. Reason: spelling
#19
My experience says you lose about 50hp max at peak through the 2WD drivetrain on these...
460hp looks about ball park for the mods....
Try some acceleration runs, data on the factory 450PS Turbo is in the link below, 60-150mph starting in 2nd gear took 18.5s, so you can test your hp from there
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...o-s-450ps.html
460hp looks about ball park for the mods....
Try some acceleration runs, data on the factory 450PS Turbo is in the link below, 60-150mph starting in 2nd gear took 18.5s, so you can test your hp from there
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...o-s-450ps.html
#20
My experience says you lose about 50hp max at peak through the 2WD drivetrain on these...
460hp looks about ball park for the mods....
Try some acceleration runs, data on the factory 450PS Turbo is in the link below, 60-150mph starting in 2nd gear took 18.5s, so you can test your hp from there
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...o-s-450ps.html
460hp looks about ball park for the mods....
Try some acceleration runs, data on the factory 450PS Turbo is in the link below, 60-150mph starting in 2nd gear took 18.5s, so you can test your hp from there
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...o-s-450ps.html
Yes, a Cargraphics unit.
#23
#24
Greg, that's probably a fairly good guess. There have been some changes to the car which could add or subtract power since back in 2004. Have you ever dyno'd your car? I would be curious to see if your seeing a loss of power between 5100 rpm and 5900. I'm guessing you are. Addison's car and Pramm's both show the same power loss at the same rpm's. Now 6 years later I dyno the car and see the same power loss. One can argue the accuracy of the dynos but not the fact that both show power loss at certain rpm.
#25
#26
Greg, that's probably a fairly good guess. There have been some changes to the car which could add or subtract power since back in 2004. Have you ever dyno'd your car? I would be curious to see if your seeing a loss of power between 5100 rpm and 5900. I'm guessing you are. Addison's car and Pramm's both show the same power loss at the same rpm's. Now 6 years later I dyno the car and see the same power loss. One can argue the accuracy of the dynos but not the fact that both show power loss at certain rpm.
There isn't a lot you can do about it, even my custom engine dyno tuned Motronics have done it to some extent - I have the graphs somewhere....
#27
The only way around it would be to either fit 1.0bar actuators, or add more preload to your existing ones. Problem being then is that the ECU can't lower the boost below 1.0bar if it senses danger, it can only retard ignition or cut the spark completely. Stock wastegates are set to open 4mm at 0.5bar, you can wind them up a bit so they open 4mm at 0.8bar, the dip then wouldn't be so pronounced, but you are taking some of the ECU's control away
#29
Lot's of people run fixed boost set ups, it's a bit frowned upon though. A well mapped motronic set up is what you're after, one that will have full control over every aspect from CHT to IAT, air mass to ignition, so it will give you the right amount of boost for the right ambient temps, and that will lower boost or retard ingnition if IAT start to get too high.
A fixed boost engine will not have the longevity of a properly mapped motronic set up. It may well spew out better figures on a short chassis dyno pull, but at wide open throttle the fixed boost car may be running too hot and causing premature wear, and the ECU will be trying to pull ignition to save things. Where the well mapped motronic ECU will constantly vary boost and ignition to keep the IAT at a safe and optimum level.
ETA: If you're after a street car that does the odd traffic light blast, or a quater mile blast, then you can get away with a fixed high boost motor. If you're after an engine that will give you the same performance, even after Hours of abuse, then stick to the way porsche designed it, just get the best package and map, something like the RS Tuning stuff through Cargraphic, or RUF. Properly engineered, engine dyno tuned/proven packages
A fixed boost engine will not have the longevity of a properly mapped motronic set up. It may well spew out better figures on a short chassis dyno pull, but at wide open throttle the fixed boost car may be running too hot and causing premature wear, and the ECU will be trying to pull ignition to save things. Where the well mapped motronic ECU will constantly vary boost and ignition to keep the IAT at a safe and optimum level.
ETA: If you're after a street car that does the odd traffic light blast, or a quater mile blast, then you can get away with a fixed high boost motor. If you're after an engine that will give you the same performance, even after Hours of abuse, then stick to the way porsche designed it, just get the best package and map, something like the RS Tuning stuff through Cargraphic, or RUF. Properly engineered, engine dyno tuned/proven packages
#30
Lot's of people run fixed boost set ups, it's a bit frowned upon though. A well mapped motronic set up is what you're after, one that will have full control over every aspect from CHT to IAT, air mass to ignition, so it will give you the right amount of boost for the right ambient temps, and that will lower boost or retard ingnition if IAT start to get too high.
A fixed boost engine will not have the longevity of a properly mapped motronic set up. It may well spew out better figures on a short chassis dyno pull, but at wide open throttle the fixed boost car may be running too hot and causing premature wear, and the ECU will be trying to pull ignition to save things. Where the well mapped motronic ECU will constantly vary boost and ignition to keep the IAT at a safe and optimum level.
ETA: If you're after a street car that does the odd traffic light blast, or a quater mile blast, then you can get away with a fixed high boost motor. If you're after an engine that will give you the same performance, even after Hours of abuse, then stick to the way porsche designed it, just get the best package and map, something like the RS Tuning stuff through Cargraphic, or RUF. Properly engineered, engine dyno tuned/proven packages
A fixed boost engine will not have the longevity of a properly mapped motronic set up. It may well spew out better figures on a short chassis dyno pull, but at wide open throttle the fixed boost car may be running too hot and causing premature wear, and the ECU will be trying to pull ignition to save things. Where the well mapped motronic ECU will constantly vary boost and ignition to keep the IAT at a safe and optimum level.
ETA: If you're after a street car that does the odd traffic light blast, or a quater mile blast, then you can get away with a fixed high boost motor. If you're after an engine that will give you the same performance, even after Hours of abuse, then stick to the way porsche designed it, just get the best package and map, something like the RS Tuning stuff through Cargraphic, or RUF. Properly engineered, engine dyno tuned/proven packages