Rebuild Questions (after much searching)
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rebuild Questions (after much searching)
In the market now for a 993TT and I am contemplating my options on cars and prices. I believe that a rebuild on the cars will set me back $20K, the question is when do I get into "normal" rebuild time. I am looking at cars in the 60-80K miles range now and want to know if I spend more and find a 30-50K mile car am I actually saving money.
I know these cars are not 99-00 996s and that they are significantly more robust and reliable but the "rebuild" word keeps coming up in searches and I can't seem to find a consensuses of what a normal mileage is for a rebuild.
I thank anyone who takes the time to answer what I am sure is a common question. I am dropping off the title for my 993 C2S today to the new Rennlister owner so the tears are in my eyes as I type.
I know these cars are not 99-00 996s and that they are significantly more robust and reliable but the "rebuild" word keeps coming up in searches and I can't seem to find a consensuses of what a normal mileage is for a rebuild.
I thank anyone who takes the time to answer what I am sure is a common question. I am dropping off the title for my 993 C2S today to the new Rennlister owner so the tears are in my eyes as I type.
#2
Race Director
There is no exact time for a rebuild, nor does a low mileage example guarantee that you won't need a rebuild.
My advice is to buy the best car you can afford based on appearance and PPI results, regardless of mileage.
I also think $20k is high unless you are going to aftermarket products.
A simple valve guide/bearing/resizing should be doable for $15k or less.
My advice is to buy the best car you can afford based on appearance and PPI results, regardless of mileage.
I also think $20k is high unless you are going to aftermarket products.
A simple valve guide/bearing/resizing should be doable for $15k or less.
#3
Three Wheelin'
There is no exact time for a rebuild, nor does a low mileage example guarantee that you won't need a rebuild.
My advice is to buy the best car you can afford based on appearance and PPI results, regardless of mileage.
I also think $20k is high unless you are going to aftermarket products.
A simple valve guide/bearing/resizing should be doable for $15k or less.
My advice is to buy the best car you can afford based on appearance and PPI results, regardless of mileage.
I also think $20k is high unless you are going to aftermarket products.
A simple valve guide/bearing/resizing should be doable for $15k or less.
#4
Racer
having just been through a 'rebuild' of my 97 turbo with 250K miles (that changed into swapping in a turbo S engine with 6K miles)...i think the 'cost' of the rebuild is quite variable (and depends on what you mean by rebuild)
parts add up quite quickly (catalytic converter $2K each, turbos $1500 each) gets you to $7K alone...
also depends on if you want new parts or are comfortable having parts 'rebuilt'
parts add up quite quickly (catalytic converter $2K each, turbos $1500 each) gets you to $7K alone...
also depends on if you want new parts or are comfortable having parts 'rebuilt'
#5
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I think that's why you need about a $10-15K cash "slush fund" when considering a 993 Turbo purchase. Regardless of mileage. Put the money in the bank and don't touch it. This should be part of the total car purchase proposition.
It's not a matter of IF the car will need a top-end done; it's only a matter of "WHEN".
I don't want to be 'cash poor' when this event arises and possibly have buyer remorse, nor delay the work when it becomes necessary. This strategy works for me.
When I bought my '97 Turbo in October with 32K miles, I fully expected to do a top-end in about 4 years. I also expect to put about 6,000 miles on the car per driving season (April-Nov.). If it is sooner, I have the money ready. If it happens later, I am only that much more prepared, and could possibly budget for additional upgrades with addition savings.
It's not a matter of IF the car will need a top-end done; it's only a matter of "WHEN".
I don't want to be 'cash poor' when this event arises and possibly have buyer remorse, nor delay the work when it becomes necessary. This strategy works for me.
When I bought my '97 Turbo in October with 32K miles, I fully expected to do a top-end in about 4 years. I also expect to put about 6,000 miles on the car per driving season (April-Nov.). If it is sooner, I have the money ready. If it happens later, I am only that much more prepared, and could possibly budget for additional upgrades with addition savings.
#7
Addict
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Let me know where you can get a name brand 3.8L monster for $20K. I've been quoted over double that.
The problem with some of the numbers thrown out above is that the "while you are there" stuff will add a significant amount. And then who isn't going to want to increase performance just a bit?
Greg H.
The problem with some of the numbers thrown out above is that the "while you are there" stuff will add a significant amount. And then who isn't going to want to increase performance just a bit?
Greg H.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Let me know where you can get a name brand 3.8L monster for $20K. I've been quoted over double that.
The problem with some of the numbers thrown out above is that the "while you are there" stuff will add a significant amount. And then who isn't going to want to increase performance just a bit?
Greg H.
The problem with some of the numbers thrown out above is that the "while you are there" stuff will add a significant amount. And then who isn't going to want to increase performance just a bit?
Greg H.
#10
Three Wheelin'
#11
#12
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I think you can get a very decently powered engine for around $20-25k in the US if you have a solid engine and stay with 3.6Ltrs and want to be within low to mid 500s HP.
Keep a stock IC, dont change your P&C, keep your stock oil pump, no work on the heads except a valve job, guides and surfacing and sealing. Most likely your springs & retainers will need to be changed. Head studs, bearings, etc..
The custom ECU mapping is key, for this money you can get a chassis dyno tune.
Obviously I am not recommending any of the above, just saying it can be done in the US with this money.
Keep a stock IC, dont change your P&C, keep your stock oil pump, no work on the heads except a valve job, guides and surfacing and sealing. Most likely your springs & retainers will need to be changed. Head studs, bearings, etc..
The custom ECU mapping is key, for this money you can get a chassis dyno tune.
Obviously I am not recommending any of the above, just saying it can be done in the US with this money.