Q

Not me..... My car is currently at Porsche, having a lovely set of coilovers fitted
.....besides, bit of a drive from Qld

Jim Campbell

Oh ok I thought it was you because i had just got back from work where I saw a 3TT S drive buy as I was getting in the car to drive home. Thought it was going to be one of those small world moment when I got home came on here and saw you had a 3TT S. Hope you enjoy the new coilovers

Ta

Q

Given we only have 15 in Aus, I would have thought the same thing !

You own a 993 TT ?

hiflexaust

is that plus or minus a "grey" (blue) one?

Full Boost

Paul,

IIRC - there were only 14 993TT 'S' in Au.

I have been wrong before - just once

Grant - yours is the ONLY "S" that has a full Tarmac cage, no interior and race suspension set up...

Who gives a **** if you are included - I bet you are having more fun ???

Simon.

Q

Simon,
12 were announced.
15 were imported.....which caused PCA some grief with a disgruntled customer...
...hey, I rang you today...

Grant
what if we say 15.5 ?
hmmmmm....but there is another grey car.....so that would make 16.
now its getting REALLY confusing

Jim Campbell

Yeah i figured there would only be a handful in Aus. Don't own one my self im only 20 so i have a few more years of work in order to be able to afford a porker. The plan is to buy one after i turn 25 so the insurance isn't so bad as im moving to Scotland soon and im pretty sure insurance get more bearable after 25 in the UK.

Ta

Q

Scotland !
....looking for better weather ??

Out of interest, what sort of $$ will you have to pay in Scotland for a 993TT ?

Jim Campbell

After a quick search i found this http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/416101.htm the prices are getting a bit mad considering u can buy a nice 996TT for half that over there. Performance cars are much cheaper over there in general, although insurance seems to be much more expensive and the driving environment is much better than in Australia. The weather is fine i lived there all last year and it rained more then it ever did when i was away the first month back to Sydney and since then the weather hasn't really wowed me. So ill be enjoying my cheap porkers hooning though the highlands and finishing the day off with a much cheaper beer and Scotch, at least that’s the plan.

Ta

Carrera GT

I don't know of a "definitive" test, but the centre coupling is "strong" enough to hold the front wheel. For example, jack up one front wheel (leaving the other three on the ground) and it should be very difficult to turn that wheel (because the coupler is resisting rotation.) A "dead" coupler will allow either front wheel to turn or even spin freely. The coupler turns a typical blue when overheated. Replacement is expensive for the part and the labor to take off the nose of the box (fortunately this is the very first step in disassembling the box, so there's the least possible wasted effort, but it's still not for the faint of heart. I'm not sure if it could be done with the 'box in situ, but I expect the hassle factor would outweigh the relatively simple task of removing the box from the car. Personally, if I had a dead coupler on my car, I'd just ignore the thing -- or better yet, remove the entire front drive assembly and convert the car to 2WD. It seems that most dead couplers come from dyno abuse or a mistaken SMOG check where the operator ignored the AWD exemption for the car.

TB993tt

Thanks for your insight....

I'm pretty sure my front wheels will turn individually like when releasing/torquing up the lug nuts the wheel will rotate fairly easily ! does this mean its (the VC) fried ? I seem to remember it always doing this from new .

2WD with 500+hp on UK roads/climate is not a safe option BTDT

ScottMellor

OK this is something I know!
Andi is up in the air having "EVO" uprights and RS tie rods and 6 piston caliper 15" brakes installed. My tech found the VC was bad. He puts a big wrench on the center nut and tries to quickly turn the axel. It should lock up after about 1/4 turn. If not it is fried. If you turn slowly, it will keep rotating. You have to generate enough shear force to cause the fluid to, um, become more viscous. This is my second VC!!! (I broke one on Frank dynoing incorrectly.) I wonder what shenanigans Amir got up to in Andi
Anyway, it does NOT necessarily turn blue. Also it can be changed without dropping the box out.

Carrera GT

I said "typical" not "necessarily."

As for removing the box, depending upon the shop (dealers prefer to go by the book -- making profit and warranty issues more predictable) I could imagine an independent shop dropping the nose, lowering the engine to the last threads of the mounting bolts, etc. and doing a swap then -- that's how most mechanics would handle a clutch f'rinstance.

As I recall (and I have one in a box here somewhere) there is a blue weld line on the casing and it's a sealed unit that uses the transmission fluid for cooling but not for lubrication. I expect the viscosity of the fluid is meant to remain stable at different temperatures -- as someone pointed out, the transfer of torque is the shearing of the coupler discs through the fluid, not any change in viscosity.

chris walrod

Every VC I have seen were blue local to the welding, as a result of the welding.

TB993tt

Scott, thanks for the info...

Showing my ignorance here but where do I find the "centre nut" ?

Can I ask how your tech knows that this is the definative test for the correct operation of the VC ? (not trying to be difficult - just want to know what the factory test procedure is, if there is one ?)

Is the best test not going to be putting the car on axle stands and sticking it in gear and trying to hang on to one of the front wheels - or am I going to get myself injured

Out of interest can you share the part numbers of the trick suspension bits you are having fitted ?