whats involved in adding power/modifications to a 96' vs. a 97'?
#1
Burning Brakes
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I understand that the ECU needs to be replaced/modified.
What are the first steps and the ballpark cost of each step to be able to upgrade the power of a 96'?
What are the costs to get to each level of performance and what are those levels, comparing a 96' to a 97'---basically will upgrading the ECU bring you to par with a 97' and put all future upgrades equivalent?
What drawbacks are there from starting with a 96' that would make a 97' that much more preferable?
Thanks for any input
What are the first steps and the ballpark cost of each step to be able to upgrade the power of a 96'?
What are the costs to get to each level of performance and what are those levels, comparing a 96' to a 97'---basically will upgrading the ECU bring you to par with a 97' and put all future upgrades equivalent?
What drawbacks are there from starting with a 96' that would make a 97' that much more preferable?
Thanks for any input
#2
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Been debating what upgrades also for my 96 993TT.
I like what I see at http://www.carnewal-europe.com/main.htm because it's Porsche factory upgrades.
I like what I see at http://www.carnewal-europe.com/main.htm because it's Porsche factory upgrades.
#3
Nordschleife Master
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Most chip tuners need to start with a 1997+ ECU, the 1996 ECU is too hard to modify. The 1997 has very slightly stronger first gear, but neither can take a "side-step the clutch" sort of abuse. After that, they're pretty much the same. A factory new 1997 ECU is around $1400. Often you can find one on eBay, used, sometimes already reprogammed. For power, you really only need to have your turbos redone... Kevin on this board is a our guru. Figure $1500 ->$2500 or so for the pair. After that, its mods to make it last... additional oil cooler, fuel-pressure regulator, maybe a bigger intercooler.
#4
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Check out www.993tt.com, it outlines the cost.
Todd from Protomotive can modify a 96 however there may be an alternate solution soon. Stay tuned.
Todd from Protomotive can modify a 96 however there may be an alternate solution soon. Stay tuned.
#5
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Originally Posted by ca993twin
The 1997 has very slightly stronger first gear, but neither can take a "side-step the clutch" sort of abuse.
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#6
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TB,
I have to agree with Steve on this one
, because I have my shaft and synchros damaged from track driving, and I am looking at putting steel ones instead.
I have never damaged a gearbox before on any car and I am typically smooth with shifting gears from experience acquired during my rallying days.
The gearbox has low mileage and the car was pulling around 450 hp on a 4WD setup. It is a matter of (bad) luck or maybe differences in manufacturing tolerances, but it does happen unfortunately with our cars.
What kind of LSD do you have installed? Are you running a 40/60 ratio?
Jean
I have to agree with Steve on this one
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I have never damaged a gearbox before on any car and I am typically smooth with shifting gears from experience acquired during my rallying days.
The gearbox has low mileage and the car was pulling around 450 hp on a 4WD setup. It is a matter of (bad) luck or maybe differences in manufacturing tolerances, but it does happen unfortunately with our cars.
What kind of LSD do you have installed? Are you running a 40/60 ratio?
Jean
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Jean
Like I said, I'll keep my fingers firmly crossed
My workshop, which sees plenty of 993tts says they have not seen this problem very often - It would be interesting to know the stats.
My LSD is 45/65% RS put it on, I don't know the source - It makes for some nice power slides tho
Like I said, I'll keep my fingers firmly crossed
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My LSD is 45/65% RS put it on, I don't know the source - It makes for some nice power slides tho
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#8
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The PO of my car (SundayDriver) has a bent first gear sitting on his desk, courtesy of the PPO.
So, although we don't know exactly what caused it, it was bent.
So, although we don't know exactly what caused it, it was bent.
#9
Drifting
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Originally Posted by TB993tt
Whilst your experiences and opinions on the 993tt having a weak first gear are well documented on Rennlist
Should you really be making factual statements as above - my drivetrain has been taking some pretty violent "side-step the clutch" type abuse (fun) from me for nearly a decade, the last 4 years with big torque, wider wheels and a grippier LSD set up and (much touching of wood here) have had no problems so far.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anyone else see this?
#10
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Originally Posted by midcont
I understand that the ECU needs to be replaced/modified.
What are the first steps and the ballpark cost of each step to be able to upgrade the power of a 96'?
What are the costs to get to each level of performance and what are those levels, comparing a 96' to a 97'---basically will upgrading the ECU bring you to par with a 97' and put all future upgrades equivalent?
What drawbacks are there from starting with a 96' that would make a 97' that much more preferable?
Thanks for any input
What are the first steps and the ballpark cost of each step to be able to upgrade the power of a 96'?
What are the costs to get to each level of performance and what are those levels, comparing a 96' to a 97'---basically will upgrading the ECU bring you to par with a 97' and put all future upgrades equivalent?
What drawbacks are there from starting with a 96' that would make a 97' that much more preferable?
Thanks for any input
You can remap your 96 but most tuners will need you to have a 97 ECU. You can remap your ECU to get to Turbo S numbers. However, I think the cost of remapping for such little gain is not cost effective.
If power is your thing, start with an auxillary oil cooler, upgraded turbos and then dyno tune (remap) your ECU.
Good luck.
#11
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Originally Posted by fc-racer
TB993tt, it's quite common on AWD cars for the drivetrain to become MORE reliable as power increases because the tires break loose more easily with the torque. My race car used to snap driveshafts and center differentials all the time at 340hp as the traction was equal to power. Once we went up to 475hp, the tires would spin easily and we haven't broken any parts since. This theory only works up to a certain point of course ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anyone else see this?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anyone else see this?
I just lit the tyres up in third on a damp road and the transition beween grip and wheelspin doesn't feel particularly hard on the drivetrain because the torque is so overwhelming.
A great excuse for increasing your output
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