PPI results - questions
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
PPI results - questions
Looking at 97 cab with 60k miles. PPI came back and found following issues:
-engine idles rough (says needs spark plugs)
-flywheel rattles when shutting off engine
-brake fluid 2% water contamination
-paint 6-10 mts
-belts cracking and fraying
-shift shaft seal leaking
-leak from cam chain housing
-seepage from cylinder base baskets and case shafts
Recommendation of immediate fix was plugs, belts, and shaft seal for $1,133.
Car is price around $43k. 2 owner car and every receipt done at dealer.
Questions:
1. Clutch felt fine, but are these signs of needing new clutch?
2. Is leaking from cam chain housing normal for this mileage?
3. Seepage of concern?
4. What would cause brake fluid contamination?
5. What would you pay for this car?
-engine idles rough (says needs spark plugs)
-flywheel rattles when shutting off engine
-brake fluid 2% water contamination
-paint 6-10 mts
-belts cracking and fraying
-shift shaft seal leaking
-leak from cam chain housing
-seepage from cylinder base baskets and case shafts
Recommendation of immediate fix was plugs, belts, and shaft seal for $1,133.
Car is price around $43k. 2 owner car and every receipt done at dealer.
Questions:
1. Clutch felt fine, but are these signs of needing new clutch?
2. Is leaking from cam chain housing normal for this mileage?
3. Seepage of concern?
4. What would cause brake fluid contamination?
5. What would you pay for this car?
#2
Rennlist Member
All standard stuff.
Brake fluid has probably never been flushed. Waxy flakes in the fluid could mean bigger problems. Otherwise a quick flush is cheap and easy.
If that's is the original dual mass flywheel, also expected... Unfortunately it's not a cheap fix...
I'd say it's a $100k car... (Says the guy getting ready to post his for sale).
Brake fluid has probably never been flushed. Waxy flakes in the fluid could mean bigger problems. Otherwise a quick flush is cheap and easy.
If that's is the original dual mass flywheel, also expected... Unfortunately it's not a cheap fix...
I'd say it's a $100k car... (Says the guy getting ready to post his for sale).
#5
Rennlist Member
None of that has anything to do the top end... It's all standard fare for these cars...
As to value, im not the one to ask... but for $3-4k you pull the motor, fix the clutch, and everything else... Put it back and now you have solid piece of mind... Just about any car this age is going to need something...
As to value, im not the one to ask... but for $3-4k you pull the motor, fix the clutch, and everything else... Put it back and now you have solid piece of mind... Just about any car this age is going to need something...
#6
Rennlist Member
Seems to be very normal issues. The rattle I think is not flywheel but throw out bearing. Mine was shot, but only speculation on my part. Either way, it will require transmission and or engine out
Sign for new clutch needed would be slipping clutch.
Water contamination in brake fluid is not unusual and needs a flush. 3.7 % I understand is limit.
Nice car and having been dealer service is plus for me, but will not be for others here.
I second the $100k valuation.
Sign for new clutch needed would be slipping clutch.
Water contamination in brake fluid is not unusual and needs a flush. 3.7 % I understand is limit.
Nice car and having been dealer service is plus for me, but will not be for others here.
I second the $100k valuation.
#7
Needs work, but nearly every 20 year old 993 for sale will need something.
None you mentioned is a deal breaker, but expect to throw a few grand at any 993 you buy after purchase just to get it sorted.
Maybe make a deal with the seller on the price since the car needs work? Sounds like once all this is work is done you might have many trouble free miles, so I say go for it.
Good luck
None you mentioned is a deal breaker, but expect to throw a few grand at any 993 you buy after purchase just to get it sorted.
Maybe make a deal with the seller on the price since the car needs work? Sounds like once all this is work is done you might have many trouble free miles, so I say go for it.
Good luck
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#8
Needs work, but nearly every 20 year old 993 for sale will need something.
None you mentioned is a deal breaker, but expect to throw a few grand at any 993 you buy after purchase just to get it sorted.
Maybe make a deal with the seller on the price since the car needs work? Sounds like once all this is work is done you might have many trouble free miles, so I say go for it.
Good luck
None you mentioned is a deal breaker, but expect to throw a few grand at any 993 you buy after purchase just to get it sorted.
Maybe make a deal with the seller on the price since the car needs work? Sounds like once all this is work is done you might have many trouble free miles, so I say go for it.
Good luck
Recommendation of immediate fix was plugs, belts, and shaft seal for $1,133.
The plugs can easily escalate to wires, distro caps n rotors. If this is the case, add $1k for parts and install labor.
#9
Race Car
Originally Posted by nine9six
Sound advice here ^, but the ppi makes no mention of suspension; so it either needs refreshing or has been refreshed. + $3.5-$4k if suspension is needed, bushings, align n corner balance. Offer 39-40?
Recommendation of immediate fix was plugs, belts, and shaft seal for $1,133.
The plugs can easily escalate to wires, distro caps n rotors. If this is the case, add $1k for parts and install labor.
Recommendation of immediate fix was plugs, belts, and shaft seal for $1,133.
The plugs can easily escalate to wires, distro caps n rotors. If this is the case, add $1k for parts and install labor.
Pdaddy makes a good point that plug wires should be suspect and likely cause rough idle more than plugs alone.
Last edited by 95_993; 06-16-2017 at 08:26 AM.
#10
Rennlist Member
Just my opinion here... What I'm saying is there are plenty more available for similar money and possibly with fewer issues. These aren't selling like they used to. Plenty o fish in the sea. True, most of the listed issues are minor and common but the rough idle, leak at base of cylinder, and rattling would concern me. I would hate to find out the real issues after purchasing. No guarantee new plugs would fix the rough idle. An engine out repair could escalate quickly! Do you diy? If not, having an indy do the work could cost $$$ to address the minor stuff. As mentioned already, you'll throw several grand at this after purchase to sort things out regardless. Why not find one with fewer issues. Happy hunting
#11
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Looking at 97 cab with 60k miles. PPI came back and found following issues:
-engine idles rough (says needs spark plugs) -- ok, more likely cap and rotor first see if it resolves the issue
-flywheel rattles when shutting off the engine - Mine has 100k on it seems premature to say it is the flywheel without a diagnosis
-brake fluid 2% water contamination - Refresh, no biggie
-paint 6-10 mts -- Does it look good, are you going to take it to a body shop who can really see undisclosed structural issues.
-belts cracking and fraying
-shift shaft seal leaking - is it a material leak or just a little weeping needing no action.
-leak from cam chain housing - if not dripping on the exhaust or the floor no action required
-seepage from cylinder base baskets and case shafts - is it dripping on the exhaust or the floor, if not, no action needed
Recommendation of the immediate fix was plugs, belts, and shaft seal for $1,133.- change the caps and rotor drive it a little and see if it still needs plugs. If no emission relevant misfire OBD code it may not be an immediate need.
Car is price around $43k. 2 owner car and every receipt done at the dealer.
Embarrassing receipts are missing if any, dealer serviced of no particular value.
Questions:
1. Clutch felt fine, but are these signs of needing new clutch?
Hard to depress, slipping under aggressive engagement, had to shift.
2. Is leaking from cam chain housing normal for this mileage?
Can happen at any time, not an issue always needing addressing.
3. Seepage of concern?
Only if it drips on the floor making a mess or drips on exhaust causing burning oil smell.
4. What would cause brake fluid contamination?
Normal use and time.
5. What would you pay for this car?
-engine idles rough (says needs spark plugs) -- ok, more likely cap and rotor first see if it resolves the issue
-flywheel rattles when shutting off the engine - Mine has 100k on it seems premature to say it is the flywheel without a diagnosis
-brake fluid 2% water contamination - Refresh, no biggie
-paint 6-10 mts -- Does it look good, are you going to take it to a body shop who can really see undisclosed structural issues.
-belts cracking and fraying
-shift shaft seal leaking - is it a material leak or just a little weeping needing no action.
-leak from cam chain housing - if not dripping on the exhaust or the floor no action required
-seepage from cylinder base baskets and case shafts - is it dripping on the exhaust or the floor, if not, no action needed
Recommendation of the immediate fix was plugs, belts, and shaft seal for $1,133.- change the caps and rotor drive it a little and see if it still needs plugs. If no emission relevant misfire OBD code it may not be an immediate need.
Car is price around $43k. 2 owner car and every receipt done at the dealer.
Embarrassing receipts are missing if any, dealer serviced of no particular value.
Questions:
1. Clutch felt fine, but are these signs of needing new clutch?
Hard to depress, slipping under aggressive engagement, had to shift.
2. Is leaking from cam chain housing normal for this mileage?
Can happen at any time, not an issue always needing addressing.
3. Seepage of concern?
Only if it drips on the floor making a mess or drips on exhaust causing burning oil smell.
4. What would cause brake fluid contamination?
Normal use and time.
5. What would you pay for this car?
Last edited by pp000830; 06-16-2017 at 11:26 AM.
#12
Rennlist Member
Sounds like the usual stuff. 20+ year old 993 ... doesn't sound out of the ordinary. Offer $39K. Good Luck
#13
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#14
Three Wheelin'
Rattle on shutdown is pretty common. Mine does the same and when I asked around I heard from a few (Andreas included) that their cars had made this noise for many tens of thousands of miles with no adverse effect. If you are a perfectionist (like me) you will pull it and put an RS LWF in . If you don't mind a little rattle on shutdown you can live with it until the clutch does start to slip and take care of it then.
I bet that if you push in the clutch at shutdown the rattle will disappear. So if the noise bothers you, this is a 'free' fix!
Nothing in the PPI list would scare me off if I liked the car. Negotiate down a few grand, expect you'll put some money into it in the first year of ownership and enjoy the ride.
I bet that if you push in the clutch at shutdown the rattle will disappear. So if the noise bothers you, this is a 'free' fix!
Nothing in the PPI list would scare me off if I liked the car. Negotiate down a few grand, expect you'll put some money into it in the first year of ownership and enjoy the ride.
#15
If the rattle at shutdown was the DMF, it would manifest itself in OBD II misfire codes. As previously mentioned more likely the TOB...