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Quick question. I'm planning on installing new Wevo blue engine mounts for my C2S. Pelican's install thread instructs you to put the car on jack stands. http://p-car.com/diy/motormount/
i have a four post lift, and can simply raise the car up a few feet without using jack stands. Will this suffice, or do I need the the wheels actually up and off the ground for this install?
Just did this with RS Mounts. A lift or stands are fine. The key is to make absolutely certain you have the engine supported. I used stands for the car and my jack with a made up wood block I made to support the engine. Otherwise your engine will hit the ground, which is less than ideal. Here are a couple of picks I just took.
Jim,
With the car on the lift, bring it up high enough to slip a flat-top stand under the engine case. Lower the lift until the stand is snug, and replace the engine mounts.
As for the engine simply falling and hitting the ground as mentioned above, not gonna happen. It's bolted to the transmission. You'll stretch and damage wires, oil lines, vacuum lines, etc., but the engine won't simply fall out.
Thanks guys. No mention of these caps that cover the bottom bolt in the Pelican write up, but that was a snap.
Also no mention of the fact that you need a deep socket with a wobble extension to get around the 02 sensors. It's tight, but doable without removing the sensors. I have the Fabspeed X pipes but I'm assuming it's the same with stock cats.
It takes a deep impact socket wrench (18mm) and a wobble extension to get around the 02 sensor and access the lower nut.
You can do as Andreas mentioned, and lower your car onto a flat top stand at the case seam to securely support engine. Stand should not wiggle or move at this point. Or with your car on the lift, place your floor jack at the case and raise engine up a bit. Rear wheels don't have to be in the air when lifting.
BTW, I've only done Mounts on 95s. No sensors there to mess with
Another question. Is there a method to lifting out the right engine mount? I've spent 15 minutes wrestling in vain around the AC compressor. I lowered the engine a bit (scary), and removed the plastic nuts, but I can't seem to squeeze it out of there.
Never mind, got it! The Pelican instructions instruct you to lower the engine for more room. I found the opposite worked better. Raise the engine a bit more and the mount had plenty of space to come out. Phew! Who does this in 30 minutes?
Glad it all worked out. Just did RS mounts last weekend. The right mount is tricky but then...bam it slips out. Ran into needing an 18mm deep at 7pm on Memorial Day. Had a 17 and 19 but had to run out and pick up an 18. Even got my wife involved to hold the wrench on the top while I torqued everything from below. Its worth it though.
PS - I jacked the engine up until it raised the vehicle just a hair.
Taking the weight of the engine off the two lower nuts is the most important step to replacing the engine mounts. Otherwise you end up twisting the engine carrier when you loosen the two large nuts. And then your mechanic ends up selling you on the idea of a reinforced/welded engine carrier for an additional couple of hundred dollars...
All good on the right mount. My 13 year old daughter held the socket wrench up top holding the bolt head steady while I torqued the lower nut to 85 nm. Fun wrenching with my daughter. Added bonus, each of the Wevo engine mounts weigh about two pounds less than the stock mounts.
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Engine Mount Install Question
