Cab Suspension Upgrades
#17
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The other, completely unrelated, issue is your suspension, wheels, tires, etc. The suspension needed to be replaced long time ago. You have to decide what's important to you and chose the new shocks and springs accordingly. This is important, second level of importance after the tires on the car. But it will not have any effect on the cowl shake. Nay, it will have an effect on the cowl shake, but it will be a net negative. With stiff suspension the cowl shake will increase some. That doesn't mean you should not replace our shocks and possibly struts, you absolutely should.
#19
There was an article in some car magazine back in the day when the 993 was being implemented to the market comparing the cab to the coupe. Supposedly, the cabs design was as stiff as the coupe or very close to. I'm sure there will be folks that disagree to that statement, and I have never compared the 2 body styles but to me my cab feels pretty darn stiff "stock".
I was talking to Daren at Fisker he also has a cab and said if you make them, cabs to stiff the doors will rattle over every bump.
Because the cabs don't have roll bars you cant use them for the track so people think they are not good track cars and just flex all over the place, that is not true. It is true on other brands.
I would focus on larger RS sway bars front and rear for better cornering.
I would also focus on the M033 1 inch lower euro springs before I would install a strut brace.
Porsche knew what they were dong when they made the cabs to perform the same as coupes.
Last edited by Rockit; 04-27-2017 at 05:33 PM.
#20
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I own a 95' cabriolet too w/ a 3.8L. I bought the car with 74K and decided to 'refresh' the suspension. I mainly use it as a DD with the occasional 'driver event' thrown in to treat her right. I did EXTENSIVE research and the general consensus I found was to go with the Bilstein B8's and MO33 Euro springs-all purchased through Gert Carnewal who was very very patient and helpful with my questions. I love the ride! It iisn't too harsh for DD, yet stiff enough for me when things get a a bit faster. That said, I refreshed strut tower bushings, ball joints, end links, kinematic arm$$ (ouch), and got a proper factory alignment. I put a set of 18" MYO2's on there too and the whole set up is awesome honestly. Good luck with whatever you do-anything will be better than the old stuff that's on there Feel free to PM privately if you have more questions. Happy to share the hours of research I did with you.
#21
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The Koni FSD would be perfect IMHO. You can match them with your stock springs or M033. You'll want to replace the dust covers and bump rubbers as well.
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Parts | Tech-Session | Facebook | Youtube
Jason Burkett
Paragon Products - Porsche Parts & Accessories*- 800.200.9366
Tech Session - Porsche Tech & Info*- 361.289.8834
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#22
Bilstein HD adjustable RH coilover shocks n struts, M030 (lower sport) or M033 (lower comfort) springs with a strut tower brace; car aligned and corner balanced, and you will be good to go.
(...and I'm not trying to sell you anything)
The more you tighten things up in other areas, the more flex gets transferred to the cowl. (This is what Nile13 was trying to say, sans political correctness)
These are the basics that need attention; the rest is slipping down a slope that really should not exist for a Cabriolet.
(...and I'm not trying to sell you anything)
The more you tighten things up in other areas, the more flex gets transferred to the cowl. (This is what Nile13 was trying to say, sans political correctness)
These are the basics that need attention; the rest is slipping down a slope that really should not exist for a Cabriolet.
#23
Cowl shake or windshield squeak? My coupe had a terrible windshield squeak coming from the cowl area until I did the polyurethane trick. I know this is different from what cabrio owners (not necessarily Porsche) have experienced. Just throwin' it out there.
#24
You can see the suspension upgrades I did on mine in my sig below, after many hours of research. The strut tower bar is a must. I also did new tie rods and ball joints and got a proper alignment by a 993 expert (an absolute MUST DO).
I was just out in the car yesterday after not driving it for over a month and I continue to be surprised at how these little cars handle straight from the factory after all these years. And upgrading beyond that with proper suspension components (and some other upgrades that also greatly enhance the driving enjoyment like engine mounts, shifter upgrades, FCA bushings, etc.) elevate the performance of the car to a level that is very satisfying (for me at least).
Since it sounds like you're stock, you'll be amazed at how a strut tower brace, new shocks, and proper alignment will wake the car up.
I was just out in the car yesterday after not driving it for over a month and I continue to be surprised at how these little cars handle straight from the factory after all these years. And upgrading beyond that with proper suspension components (and some other upgrades that also greatly enhance the driving enjoyment like engine mounts, shifter upgrades, FCA bushings, etc.) elevate the performance of the car to a level that is very satisfying (for me at least).
Since it sounds like you're stock, you'll be amazed at how a strut tower brace, new shocks, and proper alignment will wake the car up.
#25
Make sure the metal tunnel cover under the shift linkage has all its bolts and none of the studs are broken off.
I just had 8 or 9 broken studs fixed and now the car handles better and is quieter and doors rattle less. That tunnel cover must help strengthen the cab some how.
I just had 8 or 9 broken studs fixed and now the car handles better and is quieter and doors rattle less. That tunnel cover must help strengthen the cab some how.