Anything I can do to smooth my idle?
#1
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My car, when new, idled very smoothly with no rumbling or vibrations in the cockpit. Now, regardless of whether the car is warm or cold, it shakes/rumbles like a harley at idle. The dealer said that it was normal for a 993. This has gradually developed, but was more noticable for whatever reason after I bumped against the rev limiter one time. Maybe I'm too used to the smoothness of my inline-6 engine in my other car. But I would do almost anything to make this car smoother. 30k miles, 1998, C4 with no history of engine problems. Minimal rpm variation when idling.
#2
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Mark.
Do a search in the archieves regarding the idle stabilization valve. Several postings and DIY info there.
More ominously, I found my burned exhaust valve problem when the car began to idle in a rough manner.
Good luck. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
Do a search in the archieves regarding the idle stabilization valve. Several postings and DIY info there.
More ominously, I found my burned exhaust valve problem when the car began to idle in a rough manner.
Good luck. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
#4
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[quote]Originally posted by Mark Scheurer:
<strong>The dealer said that it was normal for a 993. </strong><hr></blockquote>
I love this line. Seems like many dealers don't know sh$t from shinola sometimes. Remind me, why do we need dealers again?
They'll say anything to placate us "customers" and get us out of there quickly.
Jeff
<strong>The dealer said that it was normal for a 993. </strong><hr></blockquote>
I love this line. Seems like many dealers don't know sh$t from shinola sometimes. Remind me, why do we need dealers again?
They'll say anything to placate us "customers" and get us out of there quickly.
Jeff
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My idle smooths out when I turn on the AC. If this is the case with your car, try speeding up the idle a tick or two. I believe details are on p-car.com.
I cleaned the ISV, but it didn't make any difference. It looked clean before I 'cleaned" it at 25K miles. Techron didn't make any difference either. I am living with it, as it isn't that bad and we use the AC a lot here anyways.
I cleaned the ISV, but it didn't make any difference. It looked clean before I 'cleaned" it at 25K miles. Techron didn't make any difference either. I am living with it, as it isn't that bad and we use the AC a lot here anyways.
#6
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Hi Pete,
I think cleaning the ISV is on Robin's site, but not speeding up the idle. Here are two threads that discuss this.
Tom
'95 993
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=003904" target="_blank">ISV and '95 with LWF</a>
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002968" target="_blank">Idle stabilizer valve adjustable</a>
I think cleaning the ISV is on Robin's site, but not speeding up the idle. Here are two threads that discuss this.
Tom
'95 993
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=003904" target="_blank">ISV and '95 with LWF</a>
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002968" target="_blank">Idle stabilizer valve adjustable</a>
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#8
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I too had a rough idle until last weekend that I also attributed to being 993, however, after replacing my plugs over the weekend (WAPITA), rough idle is now gone.
PS: It also turned out that the previous owner had the wrong plugs in there (dual electrode TT plugs). Funny enough, my local P-cap dealer also gave me a wrong set of plugs (dual electrode TT plugs) the first time around. If it weren’t for Robin's DIY, I would have thought everything was Ok with the new plugs since the old plugs were the same part #.
Now the car runs a lot smoother with an easy 10 WHP across the RPM range, per the trusted rear end dyno of course
. Can't say thanks enough Robin. YOU DA MAN!
A word of advice to all the rough idlers out there, pull a plug and check your part # (especially if the dealer did your last tune-up).
PS: It also turned out that the previous owner had the wrong plugs in there (dual electrode TT plugs). Funny enough, my local P-cap dealer also gave me a wrong set of plugs (dual electrode TT plugs) the first time around. If it weren’t for Robin's DIY, I would have thought everything was Ok with the new plugs since the old plugs were the same part #.
Now the car runs a lot smoother with an easy 10 WHP across the RPM range, per the trusted rear end dyno of course
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
A word of advice to all the rough idlers out there, pull a plug and check your part # (especially if the dealer did your last tune-up).