rear windshield woe
11-07-2003, 07:17 PM
#1
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rear windshield woe
Anybody had problems with their rear windshield rubber? Mine has popped out at the back and part of the plastic has cracked and crumbled. Looks like the whole shield will have to come out?
Also, when replacing will there be an issue with water tightness around the rear wiper?
Can this be done under warranty?
Any help much appreciated.
Also, when replacing will there be an issue with water tightness around the rear wiper?
Can this be done under warranty?
Any help much appreciated.
11-07-2003, 07:30 PM
#2
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Location: Harrow. United Kingdom
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Ollie,
I have just had my rear screen looked at by Hatfield OPC. Basically the rear screen squeaks and JZ Machtech say that the rear screen rubber has let water in which has corroded the paint causing the screen to squeak, they can't put the usual teflon tape on as there is no-where for it stick (all rusty).
A chap from premier is preparing a warranty claim, however the service advisor at hatfield reckons the car has had non opc paint to the roof and has not always been serviced at an OPC therefore my 10 year paint warranty is void. (usual dealer crap)
Still waiting to hear though.
in terms of you trying to get it done under warranty, you'll never know until to ask and keep asking.
I have just had my rear screen looked at by Hatfield OPC. Basically the rear screen squeaks and JZ Machtech say that the rear screen rubber has let water in which has corroded the paint causing the screen to squeak, they can't put the usual teflon tape on as there is no-where for it stick (all rusty).
A chap from premier is preparing a warranty claim, however the service advisor at hatfield reckons the car has had non opc paint to the roof and has not always been serviced at an OPC therefore my 10 year paint warranty is void. (usual dealer crap)
Still waiting to hear though.
in terms of you trying to get it done under warranty, you'll never know until to ask and keep asking.
11-07-2003, 11:58 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Ollie,
You don't have to replace the rear window to secure the seal. I posted the following reply to a question a month or two ago. Thought this may help you....
"The problem with the rear window seal (actually it's a trim piece), part # 993-545-225-02 is that it snaps into a plastic channel that surrounds the glass. The underside of the rubber trim has an "arrowhead" molded into it and this arrowhead is supposed to friction fit securely into this plastic channel.
I had this same problem with mine, where the seal would "push" itself out of the channel and flop around. The problem is that the rubber trim piece is molded so the exposed portion has an arc to it and puts pressure on the arrowhead to pull out of the channel. Also the channel is made of plastic and does not hold it's strength or shape well and actually cracks, probably due to all the engine heat back there.
Bottom line is when the seal is pushed into place, the arc that it has wants to force the arrowhead out of the channel and the plastic channel itself does not have enough grip to hold it securely.
Two solutions:
1) Have the Porsche dealer replace the window. The plastic channel is, I'm sure, an integral part of this replacement. This will give you a new plastic channel that will hold the rubber trim in place.
2) Remove the upper brake light bar. Buy a new seal, and remove the old one. Get a tube of 3M Windshield Adhesive - black caulking tube, don't know the part number, but any auto body supply house would stock it. Plan ahead on this DIY and have some small blocks of wood and small weights (I used 1 lb pieces of steel bar wrapped in duct tape). Install the new seal with the adhesive cautiously applied into the plastic channel. You'll have to use the wood blocks, weights and duct tape to keep the rubber trim in place as you proceed.
This 3M adhesive is murder to use and remove from any surface that you don't want it on, but sticks like you would't believe. It will solve the problem of the seal working out and, if done carefully, is completely invisible."
Ollie, hope this is of some help. The 3M adhesive is permanent and you will never have to worry about the seal coming out again. It is a little bit of a tedious job to do, but if done carefully is invisible. I used this method not to save money, but to avoid having someone monkey with my car and maybe make things worse.
Good luck.
You don't have to replace the rear window to secure the seal. I posted the following reply to a question a month or two ago. Thought this may help you....
"The problem with the rear window seal (actually it's a trim piece), part # 993-545-225-02 is that it snaps into a plastic channel that surrounds the glass. The underside of the rubber trim has an "arrowhead" molded into it and this arrowhead is supposed to friction fit securely into this plastic channel.
I had this same problem with mine, where the seal would "push" itself out of the channel and flop around. The problem is that the rubber trim piece is molded so the exposed portion has an arc to it and puts pressure on the arrowhead to pull out of the channel. Also the channel is made of plastic and does not hold it's strength or shape well and actually cracks, probably due to all the engine heat back there.
Bottom line is when the seal is pushed into place, the arc that it has wants to force the arrowhead out of the channel and the plastic channel itself does not have enough grip to hold it securely.
Two solutions:
1) Have the Porsche dealer replace the window. The plastic channel is, I'm sure, an integral part of this replacement. This will give you a new plastic channel that will hold the rubber trim in place.
2) Remove the upper brake light bar. Buy a new seal, and remove the old one. Get a tube of 3M Windshield Adhesive - black caulking tube, don't know the part number, but any auto body supply house would stock it. Plan ahead on this DIY and have some small blocks of wood and small weights (I used 1 lb pieces of steel bar wrapped in duct tape). Install the new seal with the adhesive cautiously applied into the plastic channel. You'll have to use the wood blocks, weights and duct tape to keep the rubber trim in place as you proceed.
This 3M adhesive is murder to use and remove from any surface that you don't want it on, but sticks like you would't believe. It will solve the problem of the seal working out and, if done carefully, is completely invisible."
Ollie, hope this is of some help. The 3M adhesive is permanent and you will never have to worry about the seal coming out again. It is a little bit of a tedious job to do, but if done carefully is invisible. I used this method not to save money, but to avoid having someone monkey with my car and maybe make things worse.
Good luck.
11-09-2003, 10:44 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
OK guys - my recent experience.
Had some paint bubbling at the bottom corner of the rear screen - tried for warrantee - Porsche said;
"NO - paint defects only covered for 3 years (mine is 8 years old), after that only through the metal corrosion covered".
Took car to my bodyshop man - with instruction that if the window had to come out OK. He carried out repair without removing screen saying the corrosion did not spread beneath sealing rubber. 8 months on and the tell tale signs were visible - back to bodyshop. He admitted his fault said screen had to come out.
When the screen was removed it seemed it had been out before (same problem??) and the wire used to remove it had clearly damaged some paintwork which had not been treated before refitting screen. Result - bonded nylon strip on the screen (into which the rubber seal clips) was beyond hope - new screen. Corrosion along the whole of the bottom edge of the rear screen channel and beginning to creep up the sides. OUCH!! New rear screen £480 +VAT +fitting +repair work a hefty £1600 in total.
I guess my problem was that the screen was out for the second time - but the real damage was caused the first time around.
Hope this helps others avoid the problems I have had.
PJC
Had some paint bubbling at the bottom corner of the rear screen - tried for warrantee - Porsche said;
"NO - paint defects only covered for 3 years (mine is 8 years old), after that only through the metal corrosion covered".
Took car to my bodyshop man - with instruction that if the window had to come out OK. He carried out repair without removing screen saying the corrosion did not spread beneath sealing rubber. 8 months on and the tell tale signs were visible - back to bodyshop. He admitted his fault said screen had to come out.
When the screen was removed it seemed it had been out before (same problem??) and the wire used to remove it had clearly damaged some paintwork which had not been treated before refitting screen. Result - bonded nylon strip on the screen (into which the rubber seal clips) was beyond hope - new screen. Corrosion along the whole of the bottom edge of the rear screen channel and beginning to creep up the sides. OUCH!! New rear screen £480 +VAT +fitting +repair work a hefty £1600 in total.
I guess my problem was that the screen was out for the second time - but the real damage was caused the first time around.
Hope this helps others avoid the problems I have had.
PJC