savage755

Hello 993 members.. I have a replacement rear window for my 1995 C2 W/O wiper and I need a little help in the installation.

I have an uncle who has worked at a glass shop for ten years and he is even stumped on the order of the 3 seals required when doing the install.

Can someone share some helpful information with me on the order of the rubber seals, inner and outer seals..

Thanks

Spokes

The inner seal is a dress seal. The glass surround seal is built into the glass - one unit. Once the glass is fixed / glued in place the outer seal is inserted into the glass seal slot.

There is a suggestion that one fills the gap with wurths sealant between the glass and body to prevent water sitting. IMHO if you are replacing the glass and seals then make good the channel, removing any surface rust, seal & paint. Fit the new glass and seals. Good for another twenty years unless you live by the ocean or some other salty or wet environment.

savage755

Thanks for the response.. I think I understand what you're saying.. I was thinking that I should fit the window into one of the grooves of the outer seal and then press into place. correct me if i'm wrong but you're saying I should glue the rear glass into place and then install the outer seal? what becomes of the inner seal and it's installation?

I know its a lot of questions but I just want to be confidently sure that I get it done right the first time.

Thanks

bcameron59

As Spokes says, window is glued in place. There's a groove in the plastic surround of the window on both the inside and outside. The bead of both the inner and seal is a friction fit into the grooves on their respective sides, no adhesive used to hold them. The inner seal goes on from the inside once the window is in place and the glue has set.

My installer used a trick where he put the outer seal on BEFORE putting the window in place, and used the seal to set the depth of the window within the channel. There are porsche templates for this but they are hard to come by and his method worked very well without them.

Here's a pic of Craig of Dominion auto glass doing the install, this guy is a master craftsman if I ever saw one; he does most of the high end exotics in town from what I understand. You can see the outer seal is already in place when he set the window in place.

savage755

That is both helpful to hear and a relief to see.. I can't wait to share the news and get my rear glass installed..

A Huge Thank You to both members who responded...

gt3'er

I'd suggest: Do not install the outer "cover" before installing the window. With it installed, you can not see that the gap all around is uniform and the window is "centered" in the opening.

bcameron59

My installer used a small plastic probe to check the position of the seal vs the window surround. He did have to make a small adjustment using the suction cup handles and it is now perfectly centred.

From what I understand from researching the forum before my install, setting the depth of the window in the frame correctly is the trickier part. If the depth is wrong, the seal may look too "sucked in" or contact the body too loosely or show gaps. Unfortunately it's risky to install the seal right after the window is glued in order to check the depth, because the pressure required to seat the seal can easily push the window too deep. They aren't that hard to push in,or move laterally before the glue starts setting, but seems to be a lot harder to pull them back out.

The templates are the factory approved method but can be hard / $$ to come by. Varios installers will have their own methods, I must confess I was very dubious about the pre-install of the seal but when Craig explained the logic it made total sense. And it turned out perfect, so I couldn't argue with the results.

OP, Good luck with your install, whichever approach you decide on!

2ndof2

Make sure your 3rd brake light is working after its done and BEFORE you pay the installer. My installer botched the job and broke the electrical connector then didn't take responsibility for it. I used the leverage of the porsche dealer's GM (they referred me) and some choice words on Yelp to coerce reimbursement for my mechanic to un-f*ck the situation. Wound up costing the guy more than he made to do the installation in the first place Also make sure the 3rd brake light mounts are centered if you have a basket handle delete and upper glass mounted 3rd brake light on yours. My installer misaligned the mounts and then tried a dremmel tool to oval out the mounting point (a fail). Oh yeah, they also scratched the 3rd brake light cover. One other piece of advice is to do a walk-around of the car and have the shop owner sign off its condition BEFORE they do the work. I can't tell you how important this is in today's day and age. Trust me... Good luck!

fst951

Has anyone tried a 996 front or rear glass window trim? It takes a similar thickness gasket? It bends easy enough as well ans isn't very expenisve at about $75. I think we can glue it to the rear glass and let it sit for a day and install the whole thing and then put in the finishing gasket.

Part Number: 99654554501

Mark Dreyer

Thanks all for your comments which I will forward to my body shop guy.

fst951

FYI you can also try this. We used a factory molding inside and universal molding outside, but followed in the instruction from factory manual on install. We also used the TSB for rust repair which we have done dozens of times. I am not in love with this seam at the top, but we use a small black aluminum clip to cover the seam after we seal it off an old 928 rear glass. Looks very nice, but not perfectly factory, but saving about $1500ish the customer opted for this driver. For the nicer cars we work on say low mile or widebody higher value cars I would only use a new glass or re-wrap the old glass with the 996 trim and use a factory seal.




t repair since that is the reason the glass came out.