When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OK, I'll look for the tie rod threads. When I started this thread I was just doing A-arms.
Now you guys have me talked in to doing all three. But appreciate the advice. I really would like toget rid of that little squirliness. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Heh heh. Another one started on the slippery slope.
I got my car up on jacks today and observed the bushings while jacking up the front suspension. On the trailing bushing I noticed that the bushing inner shell moved, the outer shell stayed in place and the bushing itself appears to have a torquing motion on it. This leads me to believe that it is in fact necessary to load the suspension before tightening.
I agree that ramps are the best option.
Any experts want to weigh in?
Last edited by Tlaloc75; Jan 15, 2017 at 11:14 AM.
You can probably go a bit more than finger tight, but I wouldn't go full torque till it's loaded. You can loosen, to ensure bushings orient properly, and re tighten to full torque once its on a ramp.
I'd also recommend jacking the rear up so the normal weight distribution is in place. If only the front is on ramps, the suspension won't be fully loaded.
Last edited by Tlaloc75; Jan 15, 2017 at 11:15 AM.
I got my car up on jacks today and observed the bushings while jacking up the front suspension. On the trailing bushing I noticed that the bushing inner shell moved, the outer shell stayed in place and the bushing itself appears to have a torquing motion on it. This leads me to believe that it is in fact necessary to load the suspension before tightening.
I agree that ramps are the best option.
Any experts want to weigh in?
Came across an earlier thread on this topic, basically if you have oem style bonded rubber bushings, you should preload before torquing, but if you are doing polyurethane bushings it doesn't matter because they can rotate freely as they are not bonded.
Arms, ball joints, tie rods came out without a problem. Waiting for parts to come back, hope install goes as smoothly! Thanks for the education, probably would not have tried it, without your input.
Talos Takes Your 991 Porsche 911 GT3 to the Next Level for a Cool $1.13 Million
Slideshow: Talos Vehicles has transformed the Porsche 911 GT3 RS into a carbon-bodied, race-inspired machine that costs well over $1 million before the donor car is even included.
9 Vehicles Porsche Helped Engineer that Aren't Porsches
Slideshow: Long before engineering consulting became trendy, Porsche was quietly helping other automakers build everything from supercars to economy hatchbacks.
9 Features and Characteristics That Only Porsche People Understand
Slideshow: Some brands build cars. Porsche builds traditions, obsessions, and a few habits that stopped making sense decades ago but somehow became part of the charm.
This Builder Is Turning Heads With Its Slantnose 911 Creation
Slideshow: A small Polish tuner has reimagined the Porsche 911 Slantnose for the modern era, blending 1980s nostalgia with widebody tuning culture and serious performance upgrades.
Porsche 911 GT3 Artisan Edition Pays Homage to Japanese Culture
Slideshow: Porsche has created a Japan-only 911 GT3 Artisan Edition that blends track-ready hardware with design cues inspired by traditional Japanese craftsmanship.
Porsche Reveals Coupe Variant of the Electric Cayenne With a Fresh Look
Slideshow: Porsche's latest electric Cayenne Coupe blends dramatic styling with supercar acceleration, turning the brand's midsize SUV into a 1,139-horsepower flagship.