Short Shifter Installation
10-16-2003, 03:18 PM
#17
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Re: Re: Short Shifter Installation
Originally posted by hn
Immediately I realized I missed one IMPORTANT step from Shant's diy on www.p-car.com ( because everything looked so straight forware, didn't it Garcia
). That greasy metal tube that the whole shifter assembly sliding/turning on has to be moved up to accomodate the extra lenght of the shifter. That means you have to remove at least one lock ring at one end of the tube and slide the tube out. Then you remove the 2 bushings , one on each end, and rotate them 180 degree before reinstall so that the holes that hold the tube will sit higher. It's a little tedious but once you look at it, it's obvious.
Immediately I realized I missed one IMPORTANT step from Shant's diy on www.p-car.com ( because everything looked so straight forware, didn't it Garcia
). That greasy metal tube that the whole shifter assembly sliding/turning on has to be moved up to accomodate the extra lenght of the shifter. That means you have to remove at least one lock ring at one end of the tube and slide the tube out. Then you remove the 2 bushings , one on each end, and rotate them 180 degree before reinstall so that the holes that hold the tube will sit higher. It's a little tedious but once you look at it, it's obvious.
10-16-2003, 05:14 PM
#20
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Guys,
Probably redundant, but this is the email that I got from Joel Riser at PCA:
"It's bushing part # 964.424.028.00, there are two of them. There is one at each end of the shaft (axle) that the whole assembly rides on. Changing these upside down is part of the geometry change, it moves the whole axle. Talk about a clever design."
Joel Reiser - PCA WebSite - 10/16/2003
Probably redundant, but this is the email that I got from Joel Riser at PCA:
"It's bushing part # 964.424.028.00, there are two of them. There is one at each end of the shaft (axle) that the whole assembly rides on. Changing these upside down is part of the geometry change, it moves the whole axle. Talk about a clever design."
Joel Reiser - PCA WebSite - 10/16/2003
10-16-2003, 05:52 PM
#21
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Originally posted by George A
Bob, why can't you do this to an AWD? BTW, mine is just a C2.
Bob, why can't you do this to an AWD? BTW, mine is just a C2.
10-24-2005, 05:10 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by mrdraco
Anyone know how much the coupler alone would cost?
10-24-2005, 07:24 PM
#25
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Also note that on the RS shift rod the coupler part is made of steel. The stock part is made of aluminum. It is only a matter of time until it breaks and you can no longer shift.
Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports
Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports
10-24-2005, 08:44 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by Premier Motorsp
Also note that on the RS shift rod the coupler part is made of steel. The stock part is made of aluminum. It is only a matter of time until it breaks and you can no longer shift.
Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports
Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports
Which would break... the stock or RS?
10-27-2005, 01:49 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by chris walrod
Maybe that rubber shifter coupler (or vibration isolator) can be made out of eurathane? I may have a way to have that made.
Anyone know the p/n for that coupler? I could order one today and have the eurathane place make some of these.
Anyone know the p/n for that coupler? I could order one today and have the eurathane place make some of these.
Alon Gat did a similar mod but used washers to replace the rubber... seemed to work out well for him. I would think a not too stiff urethane "puck" of some sort would be ideal and the best of both worlds...
Let us know if you make it, I will take one!
Eric
10-28-2005, 12:51 PM
#30
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ok....dumb question, but looking at carnewals website. the shift lever and fork are 75 euros, but the package including the shift rod is 350 euros! is it worth changing JUST the stock shift lever & fork w/o changing the rod? i've got a little room in my budget, that's the reason i ask, but not enough $ for the full 350 euro kit.
Cheers,
Kyle.
Cheers,
Kyle.