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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 06:40 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by vincer77
I was hoping for the same easy fix on the knock sensor, but no go.

The fault will not clear with the PST2. Not sure if the code is not clearing, or if the code is quickly being reset after clearing.
bad news, i took a closer look at the procedure for the knock sensor (P1386) and says to replace the ECU. Perhaps Loren of Systems Consulting can help with this.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 07:07 PM
  #17  
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As a last resort - I am not there yet!
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 02:18 PM
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I have questions regarding the knock sensors. To review, I have a PST2 code of

222 - Knock Pulse Test

and also get knocking codes which are retarding timing and causing car to have poor performance.

Points to bad knock sensors. I have looked at the wiring around the engine compartment that I would have messed with during the engine R&R and all looks fine.

This points to the knock sensors being bad.

If I buy a set of sensors, can I just plug the new sensors in without completely installing and see if that corrects the problem?

Do the sensor bodies need to be grounded to the engine?

Do I need to run a bolt through it?
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 02:39 PM
  #19  
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UPDATE

I tried connecting new knock sensors to the unit and no change - did not actually install, so not sure if that was a valid test.

I did the wiring harness checks specified in the docs that George graciously provided - and all checked well.

PST2 hdd failure, so that doesn't help anymore.

I read a few threads about rough running engines and the distributors came to mind. I checked for running on the primary and then the secondary distributor. Car ran on secondary and not primary distributor. So that meant belt was fine. I switched the coil for the primary distributor and the car started and ran - albeit a little rougher than on secondary. So this leads me to a bad coil as being the problem. Just ordered a set of coils so keeping my fingers crossed.

Interesting that I tried this early on and both distributors were ok. There was a slight hesitation, but I thought it was related to an engine install issue. By the time I solved the O2 issue, the coil went completely bad.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 01:06 AM
  #20  
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New coil installed and she runs great. Now hope that the flags clear so I can pass smog.
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 11:42 PM
  #21  
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Good news, flags cleared and she passed inspection! After two drive cycles, the flags did not clear, but after about another 100 miles, they cleared.

An interesting note is that I believe the 222 code was the result of the failed coil. Streather says that the knock control is not sufficient to prevent engine damage from a failed distributor belt, which implies that knock is a problem when only one set of spark plugs is working.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 01:11 AM
  #22  
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Vince,
Nice job of troubleshooting. Glad you got things sorted!
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 08:29 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by vincer77
Thanks for the reference materials George!

Bank 2 after the cat appears to be the dead sensor.

In the literature you posted, they talk about measuring continuity from the ECM to the O2 sensors. Is DME and ECM synonymous? Where do I access these pins?

So you read low voltages on the PST2 as well, that part is ok?

O2s were sourced from AutohausAZ and were not the ones where they get spliced into the harness. They came with OE connectors.
All the faults do return
These codes happen when the sensors are slow to warm up into their operating range. If the heaters were open -bad one would get a different code these codes can always be cleared and only addressed if they constantly come back on a very old dirty sensor. I get them from time to time in the fall when the weather is cooler.
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 08:31 AM
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 02:00 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by vincer77
Good news, flags cleared and she passed inspection! After two drive cycles, the flags did not clear, but after about another 100 miles, they cleared.

An interesting note is that I believe the 222 code was the result of the failed coil. Streather says that the knock control is not sufficient to prevent engine damage from a failed distributor belt, which implies that knock is a problem when only one set of spark plugs is working.
congratulations.

Yes, very interesting that fault code 222 went away. If you recall the diagnostic procedure for 222 says to replace the DME as the only remedy.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 04:16 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by vincer77
failed distributor belt, which implies that knock is a problem when only one set of spark plugs is working.
knock may or may not show up as a code with a broken belt. If it does the ECU is seeing an out of time ignition in a single cylinder where the rotor stopped in position on and the coil keeps firing on out of timing.
If you ever see this issue I would unplug the secondary if I was going to drive the car into service to avoid internal engine damage.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 01:00 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by george996
bad news, i took a closer look at the procedure for the knock sensor (P1386) and says to replace the ECU. Perhaps Loren of Systems Consulting can help with this.
UPDATE

Well, PST2 is working again. The 222 code is still present, so it is not the result of the bad coil. The knock codes are gone.

It is interesting that going back, when I had the PPI, the knock codes were there including the 222 code. At the time, there was speculation that the DMFW was starting to fail. With the new RS-style flywheel, this is not likely. So it may be very well a DME issue.

At least it causes no other problems that I see.

Last edited by vincer77; Aug 30, 2016 at 05:02 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 05:21 PM
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On my 964 I had some rough running issues that turned out to be the ignition module connected to the coils. 964 has two, believe the 993 has only one. About $74 from Volvo, over $100 from Porsche. Cheper than a DME or distributor.
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