Well I just got an update from my friend who is working on the car. The rear ball joint boots are torn so it looks like I need new rear toe arms. Ordered the Rennline rear toe control arms. Who thought working on a 20 year old porsche would be so expensive... Rennline or FD motorsports wanna sponsor my build? I'll put a small sticker on my rear window. Anyhow I'll post some more update pics this afternoon, wish me luck.

 

Just because the boot is torn doesn't necessarily mean the joint is bad. Is it recommended to change when the boot is torn? I know the ball joint will probably be more exposed to elements and it can be the start of it going bad.
Anyone else know the answer to that?

 

For lowered 993 the rear toe link should probably be replaced anyways.

Please note there are quite a few links and ball joints in the rear. Camber link, Kinematic toe link, toe link and lower A-Arm. Tarett's rear toe links are popular choice, and I read they make quite a difference exiting a turn.

OP, might want to add inner tie rods (rsr-style) that are coming out by Tarett since you'll be doing alignment anyways.

 

Alright update two. So I have ordered the rennline toe control arms and boots, the tires came in today. I'm waiting on getting some curb rash repaired on one of the wheels so I might have to wait till early next week to install the tire on that wheel. The toe control arms look pretty shot to me but I am far from an expert. NYC993 do you think I should have gone for the tarett links instead of the rennline ones and do you know when the inner tie rods will be shipping? Can't have the car on the lift for ever.

 

Either rennline or tarett are probably fine. Idk what the differences are if any.

 

I hope not to offend the OP but, I see a bunch of parts being thrown at the car w/o a plan

p/u fronts bushes
Rennline mono-ball toe links
stock, probably worn, rear A-arm bushes
stock, probably worn, kt link
shocks and spring that do what changes to the ride height and suspension geometry

This seems to me to be a recipe for disappoinment

 

I understand that things are not ideal but I'm not sure exactly what to do. I haven't been able to find rear bushings that are reasonably priced like the walrods, elephant racing seems to be the only place to offer them and at over a grand for a full set of rear bushings sounds crazy to me from some pieces of rubber.

 

What is the goal?

To be cheap?

or??

 

Not everyone has an unlimited budget and the car will be used on the road with a couple of autocrosses each year. The other parts seem to be in ok condition, if you have any recommendations for rear suspension components that won't break the bank I would love to hear them. I know I'm going to get hate for not wanting to spend top dollar on everything but sometimes that just isn't possible.

 

No to question Bill's advice, but I would side with OP here. I think what he is doing is better than nothing if he is enjoying it.
P/U bushings are better than worn old ones (I would go for Elephant sport ones, but that's me), plenty of ppl happy with p.u. ones.
Rear toe links alone do make a positive difference confirmed and recommended by several guys who track so again it's an improvement.
Better shocks/springs than stock - I have no comment here as I don't know. Koni that I know on another identical car to mine feel a bit soft, but might a different model.
GR is def. an improvement
Roth shifter is probably where I would save the money, if budget is an issue.
Maybe Stage 2 will be new rear links and rennline subframe mounts with wevo engine mounts and upgraded engine carrier.

OP,
So what about maintenance items are those all up-to-date (valve gaskets, plug wires, plugs, caps&rotors, brakes, belts). Don't forget alignment and corner balance after all said and done.

 

Valve gaskets have been done and there isn't a drop of oil on the crank case, plugs are being done, pads and rotors are in good shape, air filter is being replaced, flushing all fluids out of the car so new brake fluid, transmission fluid, engine oil, upgrading to stainless steel brake lines because the lines are 20 years old. The car will get a full alignment and corner balance from someone who knows about the kinematic toe. The steering rack has been replaced and the belts were replaced a few years back. I believe the engine mounts were also replaced.

 

Excellent!

 

Update three. After closer inspection of the rear brakes, there is a bit of a lip so the rotors and pads will be replaced in the rear, the fronts still have a good amount of meat on them. The Walrod bushings have been installed. After searching some more I came across Rennline's HD track rod bushings which I am considering ordering. Any advice on those would be greatly appreciated. Don't have any photo updates for today but I'll post some more when I go into the shop to help bleed the brakes and clutch.

 

Polished up the turbo twist technology wheels today

 

Are the rear rotors beyond the wear limits? I don't have the numbers in front of me, but they are posted here somewhere or are in the factory manual. I seem to recall 2mm wear from new, but that might be big reds and fronts. I had a tiny bit of lip, but measured and was only half-way on my wear. Now, if yours are deeply scored, cracking, have a huge (2mm+) lip...then you are on to new ones.