993 price check?
#1
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Hi guys,
I came across a 993 and thought I'd ask for opinions.
The good: black on black rwd C2 6MT.
The bad: No LSD and condition is pretty rough.
175k miles. Driver seat as a tear, paint overall is rough. I haven't taken a very close look but it might have had a panel or two resprayed (possible fender benders). Rear light bar is cracked. The engine is leaking. There were a couple oil drops on the ground after being parked for only 10min. Wheels have rash. You get the idea, rough car. Original owner but has been daily'd and treated as a beater it appears. It's also not passing CA smog. It's a 96 (OBD2). Possible secondary air passages clogged up.
Now I'm guessing most of you would run far far away but I'm a wrencher and DIYer and I'm thinking this could be a fun fixer upper project. If the price is right of course.
Thoughts? What would you Rennlisters pay for this car?
Thanks in advance!
I came across a 993 and thought I'd ask for opinions.
The good: black on black rwd C2 6MT.
The bad: No LSD and condition is pretty rough.
175k miles. Driver seat as a tear, paint overall is rough. I haven't taken a very close look but it might have had a panel or two resprayed (possible fender benders). Rear light bar is cracked. The engine is leaking. There were a couple oil drops on the ground after being parked for only 10min. Wheels have rash. You get the idea, rough car. Original owner but has been daily'd and treated as a beater it appears. It's also not passing CA smog. It's a 96 (OBD2). Possible secondary air passages clogged up.
Now I'm guessing most of you would run far far away but I'm a wrencher and DIYer and I'm thinking this could be a fun fixer upper project. If the price is right of course.
Thoughts? What would you Rennlisters pay for this car?
Thanks in advance!
#5
Banned
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Why not do the Standard Customary Analysis First
Leekdown Paint Meter PPI at a Competent Indy etc then Report back
Maybe then we can establish a Benchmark.
Then u can try to convince the seller it is only worth 20 LOL
Leekdown Paint Meter PPI at a Competent Indy etc then Report back
Maybe then we can establish a Benchmark.
Then u can try to convince the seller it is only worth 20 LOL
#6
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Sounds like this car could eat up $10-20K fairly easily, possibly a fair bit more, to get it in good "driver" condition. DIYing will save money for sure but parts are expensive and I don't imagine you'd do the paint yourself.
Let's say you purchase the car for $20K and invest a further $15K (total shot in the dark). You've then got a "driver" 993 for $35K. Even with the high miles, not many around at that price point these days.
Let's say you purchase the car for $20K and invest a further $15K (total shot in the dark). You've then got a "driver" 993 for $35K. Even with the high miles, not many around at that price point these days.
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#9
Instructor
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Sounds similar to mine that I bought 3 years ago. I have a 96 black on black coupe with 150,000 miles on it.
The good: The PO had just done the clutch, rear crank seal and SAI. Car uses 1/2 quart of oil every 3,000 miles. One small drip. Passed CA smog.
The bad: No documentation. It drove terribly and had a bad rattle somewhere in the back end. Rear light bar did not work. The front right fender had a respray as did the left rear fender. Both were fender benders and after digging deeper and the repairs were uninspiring to be kind and from 10 feet (ok maybe 15 feet) the car looks great.
Being a DIYer myself I bought it anyway and went to work. Wevo engine mounts (solved rattle), front control arm bushings, front ball joints, engine carrier reinforcement, stainless brake lines, Sway bar bushings, rear control arms, Bilstein HDs with M033 springs (ROW height now), monoball shock hats, new oil cooler, ignition switch, , goldenrod, reconditioned seats, pedal rebuild and many other small items adding up to over $6,500.
All work was done where it sits in the picture because the garage is too damn small and barely fits the car.
The car improved with each additional part and I will now follow any one of you into any corner with confidence. Purchase price was 22,500.
I say take a deep breath and go for it in the low 20's.
The good: The PO had just done the clutch, rear crank seal and SAI. Car uses 1/2 quart of oil every 3,000 miles. One small drip. Passed CA smog.
The bad: No documentation. It drove terribly and had a bad rattle somewhere in the back end. Rear light bar did not work. The front right fender had a respray as did the left rear fender. Both were fender benders and after digging deeper and the repairs were uninspiring to be kind and from 10 feet (ok maybe 15 feet) the car looks great.
Being a DIYer myself I bought it anyway and went to work. Wevo engine mounts (solved rattle), front control arm bushings, front ball joints, engine carrier reinforcement, stainless brake lines, Sway bar bushings, rear control arms, Bilstein HDs with M033 springs (ROW height now), monoball shock hats, new oil cooler, ignition switch, , goldenrod, reconditioned seats, pedal rebuild and many other small items adding up to over $6,500.
All work was done where it sits in the picture because the garage is too damn small and barely fits the car.
The car improved with each additional part and I will now follow any one of you into any corner with confidence. Purchase price was 22,500.
I say take a deep breath and go for it in the low 20's.
#10
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IMHO low 20's is where you want to be, BUT low 20's is a pipe dream. Somebody will come along and buy it for more than that not realizing the price of fixing her up. I haven't seen a non salvage 993 below 30 thousand in almost 2 years.
Plan on 5K to do the top end rebuild if you can DIY (at which point the SAI and leaks can be fixed easily) If you can't DIY then double that price.
Plan on 5K to do the top end rebuild if you can DIY (at which point the SAI and leaks can be fixed easily) If you can't DIY then double that price.
#12
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I bought a project I knew would be expensive and time consuming. I see it as saving a car that would have otherwise been abandoned. I still find frustrating things every time I tear into something but slowly the car is coming back to life. I bought mine almost 3 years ago now and paid less than 30 for it. Non-salvage title, no accident history. Had a terrible respray and needs interior work, but runs fantastic now. The question in this really should be what your comfort level as a DIY'er is or how much you're willing to spend at a shop. I absolutely love 911s and rebuilding them is a passion of mine. If you don't love the car, no matter what price you get it at, it won't be a fun process, nor will you ever be happy with the decision you made.
#13
Rennlist Member
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Sounds similar to mine that I bought 3 years ago. I have a 96 black on black coupe with 150,000 miles on it.
The good: The PO had just done the clutch, rear crank seal and SAI. Car uses 1/2 quart of oil every 3,000 miles. One small drip. Passed CA smog.
The bad: No documentation. It drove terribly and had a bad rattle somewhere in the back end. Rear light bar did not work. The front right fender had a respray as did the left rear fender. Both were fender benders and after digging deeper and the repairs were uninspiring to be kind and from 10 feet (ok maybe 15 feet) the car looks great.
Being a DIYer myself I bought it anyway and went to work. Wevo engine mounts (solved rattle), front control arm bushings, front ball joints, engine carrier reinforcement, stainless brake lines, Sway bar bushings, rear control arms, Bilstein HDs with M033 springs (ROW height now), monoball shock hats, new oil cooler, ignition switch, , goldenrod, reconditioned seats, pedal rebuild and many other small items adding up to over $6,500.
All work was done where it sits in the picture because the garage is too damn small and barely fits the car.
The car improved with each additional part and I will now follow any one of you into any corner with confidence. Purchase price was 22,500.
I say take a deep breath and go for it in the low 20's.
The good: The PO had just done the clutch, rear crank seal and SAI. Car uses 1/2 quart of oil every 3,000 miles. One small drip. Passed CA smog.
The bad: No documentation. It drove terribly and had a bad rattle somewhere in the back end. Rear light bar did not work. The front right fender had a respray as did the left rear fender. Both were fender benders and after digging deeper and the repairs were uninspiring to be kind and from 10 feet (ok maybe 15 feet) the car looks great.
Being a DIYer myself I bought it anyway and went to work. Wevo engine mounts (solved rattle), front control arm bushings, front ball joints, engine carrier reinforcement, stainless brake lines, Sway bar bushings, rear control arms, Bilstein HDs with M033 springs (ROW height now), monoball shock hats, new oil cooler, ignition switch, , goldenrod, reconditioned seats, pedal rebuild and many other small items adding up to over $6,500.
All work was done where it sits in the picture because the garage is too damn small and barely fits the car.
The car improved with each additional part and I will now follow any one of you into any corner with confidence. Purchase price was 22,500.
I say take a deep breath and go for it in the low 20's.