Another RS Engine Mount Post
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 775
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From: PeachState Region, GA
Another RS Engine Mount Post
I made time to get my RS engine mounts in this weekend. Thanks Danny, for all your work setting up the group buy, and thanks Robin, for putting those DIY instructions on your web site.
The task was pretty easy, it took me 1:20 working alone, even with a coffee break and time to look up a N-m to ft-lb conversion on the internet (85 N-m = 62.7 ft-lb BTW). FYI the bolt through the new mount has a 19mm head, and the nut is 18mm.
First of all there are freaking access plugs under the mounts. I looked for a couple of minutes how the heck to get a socket under there before I noticed the plugs, might want to add that to the DIY.
My engine bay didn't look like the pictures (a 1995), there was no problem with the AC lines. The driver's side mount didn't want to come out though, it was being blocked by the tube the engine lid release cable runs through. I disconnected the cable at the latch and moved it aside which worked fine, but getting that frayed/smashed cable back into the hole it came out of was pretty frustrating.
Driving impressions? Heck, it feels/sounds about the same to me. The shifter may feel better, a little 'snickier', but then that may just be my expectations coming into play.
I would suggest this is an easily doable DIY to anyone considering it, on a scale of 1 to 10, (1 being pumping your own gas, and 10 being making an entire new Porsche using only a swiss army knife) I would rate it a 1.5, an oil change is harder.
The task was pretty easy, it took me 1:20 working alone, even with a coffee break and time to look up a N-m to ft-lb conversion on the internet (85 N-m = 62.7 ft-lb BTW). FYI the bolt through the new mount has a 19mm head, and the nut is 18mm.
First of all there are freaking access plugs under the mounts. I looked for a couple of minutes how the heck to get a socket under there before I noticed the plugs, might want to add that to the DIY.
My engine bay didn't look like the pictures (a 1995), there was no problem with the AC lines. The driver's side mount didn't want to come out though, it was being blocked by the tube the engine lid release cable runs through. I disconnected the cable at the latch and moved it aside which worked fine, but getting that frayed/smashed cable back into the hole it came out of was pretty frustrating.
Driving impressions? Heck, it feels/sounds about the same to me. The shifter may feel better, a little 'snickier', but then that may just be my expectations coming into play.
I would suggest this is an easily doable DIY to anyone considering it, on a scale of 1 to 10, (1 being pumping your own gas, and 10 being making an entire new Porsche using only a swiss army knife) I would rate it a 1.5, an oil change is harder.
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From: Spartanburg, SC
I just did this same R&R this weekend... and my impressions match Chuck's, maybe a bit better shifting, but no noticeable differences in engine sounds or seat-of-pants feeling. I did notice a bit more noise over harsh roads though, as though the engine was more directly reacting to the bumps.
I had the same comments as above concerning the removal/replacement procedure... first an access plug covers the hole that leads to the nut on the bottom of the mount on the passenger side, and on the driver side the access hole is where the O2 sensor wire runs through. These were easy enough to remove and then you're on your way.
Also, the cable mentioned above was a problem, but instead of moving it, I lowered the engine alot and that allowed the motor mount to slide out easily.
The two small bolts that attach the mount to the frame could only be torqued to 30Nm (vs 40Nm recommended). At 30Nm they began to rotate. Only time will tell if 30Nm is enough. I'll keep an eye on them.
Total time was a little over 1 hour. I did require the use of my 14 yo son to hold the bolt head while I torqued the nut from below. While it would be possible to do it alone by torquing the bolt head from the top, this is not the best assembly practice (applying the torque at the nut end is). Or maybe my arms are just too short to do it alone?
If my impressions change over time (or after the next track event) I'll write an update.
I had the same comments as above concerning the removal/replacement procedure... first an access plug covers the hole that leads to the nut on the bottom of the mount on the passenger side, and on the driver side the access hole is where the O2 sensor wire runs through. These were easy enough to remove and then you're on your way.
Also, the cable mentioned above was a problem, but instead of moving it, I lowered the engine alot and that allowed the motor mount to slide out easily.
The two small bolts that attach the mount to the frame could only be torqued to 30Nm (vs 40Nm recommended). At 30Nm they began to rotate. Only time will tell if 30Nm is enough. I'll keep an eye on them.
Total time was a little over 1 hour. I did require the use of my 14 yo son to hold the bolt head while I torqued the nut from below. While it would be possible to do it alone by torquing the bolt head from the top, this is not the best assembly practice (applying the torque at the nut end is). Or maybe my arms are just too short to do it alone?
If my impressions change over time (or after the next track event) I'll write an update.
