Asked on the turbo forum, but no response yet. Unable to find it in the PET or elsewhere. Can someone advise what the thread size and pitch for the brake bleeder valve (993TT)? Wanna get speed bleeders and unable to find an application. They only have them listed by size and pitch.
Thanks in advance for any help
Richard

 

Quick answer--you don't want to use speed bleeders.

 

Ken, I appreciate that, but sometimes while bleeding my brakes, I get tiny lines of microscopic bubbles. No matter how much I push through, I still can't get it absolutely free of them. Pedal feels fine and have had no problem, just thought the check valves would help eliminate chance of an air getting back into line, while bleeding them. Always use power bleeder and am just don't like seeing ANY air, no matter how small they may appear. Thoughts????

 

Rich,
I believe the bleed valves are 10 x 1.0

 

Huh? Why not?

 

Are you sure the air is not passing between the end of your clear tubing and the bleeder valve, rather than from the caliper itself? I know I've had that problem in the past.

 

^^^^. Don't think it's the tubing. Use good, clear tight line while doing it. Wasn't sure if it was from the bleeder valve as I have to open it a bit and thought maybe it was between the threads of valve and caliper threads. Hoped the check valves (speed bleeders) were a solution. I know some frown on manually bleeding brakes since you can push pedal beyond normal travel while doing so. This can lead to damaged seals since area (that pedal is taken to during a manual bleed) is not normally reached and has corrosion. I use a power bleeder, so I'm not risking damage, in that respect.

 

If the little bubbles are tiny and a stream of them my vote is for air coming past the bleeder threads. Easy the bleeder back closed and see if it makes a difference

 

First, you're introducing a non-factory part into a spot where you want to carefully consider why you're desiring something non-factory. But that's just conservative me, who partially made a living in the Olden Days prepping race and track cars.

Specifically, the speed bleeder thing. And all anecdotal, but not necessarily hearsay. We've got a 300+ participant track/race local list, with some heavy hitters. They've never gotten the Seal Of Approval--poor fit, quality, not working as advertised.

Ultimately, decide what problem you're trying to solve. On a street car the concept is laughable. On a track car, you want to be in there with the wheels removed to check things--brake pad/rotor and tire full circumference regularly, suspension components often.

There are enough low-mid cost pressure bleeder options out there (friend owns Motive).

 

Ken, that's where my concern lies. My pedal and brakes feel fine. I just don't like the thought of anything happening on the track.
Regarding closing valve some to reduce bubbles, I have tried numerous times. Still just a very small amount of micro "lines" that flow through intermittently. Not constant, but still there. Should I just not worry, since brakes are functioning correctly and pedal feels fine.
Again, I'm at maybe 75-80% at the track. Not braking early, but not as late as I could (faster times). Still having fun, but not pushing it towards the edge. Really wanna get there, but common sense (lack of replacement funds) keeps me on track, literally. :-)
Thanks for input guys
Aloha

 

Do you know the line, “accept the things I should not fix, have courage to fix the things I must and have the wisdom to know the difference”

 

The consensus above is that you're not introducing air into the system and I agree with them. With a pressure bleeder, you have positive pressure which prohibits air from flowing "upstream". The most important thing is to bleed your brakes just before your track event, the closer, the better. Just as Ken says, I know of no serious track "junkies" who use speed bleeders.

 

I have at least one valve that produces the tiny line of bubbles once in a while, my guess is they are
coming past the threads as mentioned above or getting between the tube and valve. I don't worry
about it, as long as the fluid is running out clear that should be good.

 

I flush my brake & clutch circuits every year using a Motive Black Label (dry) and fresh ATE fluid. My brake pedal is rock solid and I've always noticed fine bubbles when bleeding/flushing. On occasion I've pushed the bleed screw slightly one way or the other and the fine bubbles instantly stop. Because of that I think it's air that works its way past the threads.



Andreas

 

Thanks everyone. Just needed my support group, to tell me to stop worrying.
Mahalo Nui Loa :-)