Clutch Problem Found
#2
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Did it seize on the guide tube (it doesn't look very smooth)? So when you pushed down on the pedal the release bearing would not move and so the arm did (and snapped)?
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The clutch felt perfectly fine when I drove it half way to work. Then at the stop light the clutch felt super hard to press and would only disengage at the bottom of its travel. I have no idea how it sheared.
#4
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That's a bummer, man.
Glad you found the problem though. You going to put on a new clutch while you're in there?
Glad you found the problem though. You going to put on a new clutch while you're in there?
Last edited by mpruden; 05-02-2019 at 06:47 PM.
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I hate to say it, but the input shaft sure looks like it also sustained some damage. The area that goes into the "pilot" bearing is chewed up and the clutch splines also look to have got it a little too.
If the splines are damaged they need to be "dressed" to remove any rough areas. If that isn't addressed, the clutch may have difficulty fully disengaging.
Dressing may compromise hardening though.
I hope it is not as bad as the pix suggests.
Best of luck with that
Rich
If the splines are damaged they need to be "dressed" to remove any rough areas. If that isn't addressed, the clutch may have difficulty fully disengaging.
Dressing may compromise hardening though.
I hope it is not as bad as the pix suggests.
Best of luck with that
Rich
#7
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Had that exact problem which was caused by the TO bearing binding on the guide tube. There will be grooves on outside diameter of the guide tube where the TO bearing is positioned (I can see them in the photo). In my case as it got worse (before the TO broke) the clutch pedal began to stick at the floor.
Look closely at your clutch fork at the location where it contacts the TO bearing and you will most likely find it is worn. The uneven wear on the fork fingers put a twist of the TO bearing as it was operated and put a side load on the guide tube. Was your clutch fork replaced when the LWFW/RS clutch was installed?
Mike
You should replace the guide tube and clutch fork to get back to new.
Look closely at your clutch fork at the location where it contacts the TO bearing and you will most likely find it is worn. The uneven wear on the fork fingers put a twist of the TO bearing as it was operated and put a side load on the guide tube. Was your clutch fork replaced when the LWFW/RS clutch was installed?
Mike
You should replace the guide tube and clutch fork to get back to new.
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Had that exact problem which was caused by the TO bearing binding on the guide tube. There will be grooves on outside diameter of the guide tube where the TO bearing is positioned (I can see them in the photo). In my case as it got worse (before the TO broke) the clutch pedal began to stick at the floor.
Look closely at your clutch fork at the location where it contacts the TO bearing and you will most likely find it is worn. The uneven wear on the fork fingers put a twist of the TO bearing as it was operated and put a side load on the guide tube. Was your clutch fork replaced when the LWFW/RS clutch was installed?
Mike
You should replace the guide tube and clutch fork to get back to new.
Look closely at your clutch fork at the location where it contacts the TO bearing and you will most likely find it is worn. The uneven wear on the fork fingers put a twist of the TO bearing as it was operated and put a side load on the guide tube. Was your clutch fork replaced when the LWFW/RS clutch was installed?
Mike
You should replace the guide tube and clutch fork to get back to new.
Thanks for the advise. I am going to order a new fork and guide tube, so this doesn't happen again.
#10
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I hate to say it, but the input shaft sure looks like it also sustained some damage. The area that goes into the "pilot" bearing is chewed up and the clutch splines also look to have got it a little too.
If the splines are damaged they need to be "dressed" to remove any rough areas. If that isn't addressed, the clutch may have difficulty fully disengaging.
Dressing may compromise hardening though.
I hope it is not as bad as the pix suggests.
Best of luck with that
Rich
If the splines are damaged they need to be "dressed" to remove any rough areas. If that isn't addressed, the clutch may have difficulty fully disengaging.
Dressing may compromise hardening though.
I hope it is not as bad as the pix suggests.
Best of luck with that
Rich
EDIT: as I typed and posted, up pops a new photo! You are amazingly quick
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The input shaft looks fine, just had some grease on it.
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Haha. Thanks nine9six. I am trying to get this thing out of the shop by today. Looks like the fork is completely worn out.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
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The clutch feels a lot smoother and lighter. Before the incident, the clutch felt very stiff. This leaves me to believe that the throw out bearing was somehow binding on the guide tube which led to the bearing failure. I am so happy that we got the car up and running just in time for the weekend. It was my first time pulling the transmission on my car and I loved every minute wrenching at it. Now I just have to find a way to put a lift in my garage.
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I was so relieved when I went to take a second look at it
![Embarrassment](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
I believe the shop before reused the clutch fork
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Thank you for all the advise and concerns. I hope you all have a great weekend!