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engine yoke nut tightness/torque ?

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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 03:19 PM
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Default engine yoke nut tightness/torque ?

I'm a first time rennlist poster and first time 993 engine dropper due to wore out clutch , and leaking oil like a torpedoed super tanker. I'm afraid of tightening the two nuts too tight and damaging engine to trans studs. Or worse ? Seems like a very heavy duty yoke. But just two bolts holding up that 3.6 makes me a bit nervous ? Anyones help is appreciated
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 06:21 PM
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Just get them tight. I used hex stock cut to length to take up the slack on the threads.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 10:04 AM
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Really? There's no torque spec in the workshop manual or other such reference material; Bentley maybe?

Last edited by nine9six; Feb 9, 2015 at 10:59 AM.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 10:39 AM
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A little bit less than the torque specs of the nut holding the transmission to the engine? I just cranked mine tight. It held up for the 6 months it took to rebuild mine.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Wesleyc
I'm afraid of tightening the two nuts too tight and damaging engine to trans studs.
They don't need to be any tighter than hand-tight.

These are knurled and tightened by hand...index finger and thumb. They are made specifically for the engine yoke.


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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 01:55 PM
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As long as you are using the correct engine yoke (p201) the bolts only need to be snug. The actual yoke supports the weight of the engine not the studs.

My spacers were not as elegant as the ones shown by Alex...


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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by trophy
As long as you are using the correct engine yoke (p201)...
The correct engine yoke and clamp makes a difference.

A local 993er that I help out a lot in his shop has a low dollar aftermarket yoke which rotates in Harbor Freight engine stand.

There are two things going against it.

1) the shaft diameter of the engine yoke is smaller than the tube in HF engine stand. So you get two contact points for high friction and lube is useless.

2) the shaft of the engine yoke isn't even lined up with the center-line of the crankshaft. It is off by at least 3 inches.

Those are the reasons why it is so hard to rotate and also why it won't stay in any one position other than one.

I bought the P201 yoke and 313 clamp. No curse words needed.

Originally Posted by trophy
My spacers were not as elegant as the ones shown by Alex...
Steve, I didn't have time to stand behind my lathe and chances are I would have needed that socket that was used as a spacer...I bought those from Stromski.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 12:23 AM
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Thanks guys. put it on the stand this morning. Don't know why I was apprehensive about the LBS. This HEAVY duty yoke is great.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 11:37 AM
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The hex stock (ID a bit larger than the studs' diameter) also works well for spacers. I used the nuts that secured the engine to the trans.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 09:35 PM
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Having the right tools really does make the job easier.

The thought of having my engine connected to the yoke that came with my engine stand causes shivers up my spine. $xx,xxx worth of engine on a $20 yoke... No way!!

Stromski really have nice stuff.
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