JDB1

Drive gear noise became louder and louder so rebuilt last week. Followed Richard Hamilton's excellent write-up on p-car. Case seperation was not easy for me but not overly difficult, patience pays off. It appears that water eventually works its way down the flex shaft to the inside of the gear box and corrodes the bearing and accelerates deteriation of the grease. I spent $16.47 on parts which included marine grade water resistant grease and a sealed bearing. Greased all components including the inside of the flex shaft. With ignition on and window down, cannot hear unit operation. Very please with results.

P-daddy

Nice job! One of the few first things I always do after purchasing.

speyer911

This has been on my list for a year. Did you need a vise for removal and assembly. do you grease the bearing? any other tips or tricks?

JDB1

Have a small $20 vice from Lowe's that clamps to my desk. That and two small C clamps helped make the job go smoothly. The bearing was pre-greased and sealed, unlike the OEM bearing which had open access to the ***** and cage. The synthetic marine grease was applied to the worm gear, end shafts of worm gear and inside the neck of the body where the flex drive shaft engages the worm gear shaft; idea was to reduce water entering housing as it migrates down the flex shaft. The synthetic marine grease is very tackie and therefore does not wash off easily. I did all the work at my desk in the warmth of my house and is easiest dyi I have done so far. If you screw it up, you're only out the cost of the bearing if you have to purchase a new/used unit; may even be able to return the bearing if not defiled.

speyer911

Thanks wish me luck, I'm going to bite the bullet, if I can remember where I put that little bearing.

marucus1

Any pictures
Thanks

Grapeape

You've inspired me to attempt my next diy. But if eliminate the bearing grind l will not be able to tell if it's moving up or down since I can't see it from the drivers seat.

JDB1

Check out the p-car site as indicated above for excellent pictures. Don't worry if it makes very little sound when operating, the car knows and if you look in the rear view mirrow when its up you can see the top edge. Good luck.

speyer911

Foiled. No superglue in the house. Very close to done. Wasn't easy getting it open,I think AZ sun baked it closed. Messed up the grove,hopefully it will seal again. Bearing was very rusty.

Leander

No way can I see my spoiler in the rear view mirror. The only way I know it's up when I'm driving is by looking at my shadow or my reflection off other vehicles.

JDB1

If you can't see the top edge(approximately 1/2 ") of your spoiler when it is fully raised, you may want to check your limit switch adjustment.

Drisump

I did this about a month ago. Although from inside you can always hear the activation of the spoiler I think most guys would be surprised at how "herky jerky" the action is when you actually see it before a rebuild. Considering how much money Porsche wants for all the components on the spoiler drive system and how cheap it is to rebuild, I think it is a good idea to do this procedure before a problem lets itself be known. Like the OP, my bearing was very rusty and the cable had no lube at all. The outside sheathing on the cable (black plastic of some sort) fell off in chunks...I guess heat and time had done their work. I peeled the remaining material off (which was no problem) and wound electrical tape around it instead. The steel outer cable needs sealing to keep out dirt and water, and keep in the lube. I'm thinking if mine was like that, others would be to. Cheers

Roche993

Be warned if you are only using super glue to hold the two halves together. I attempted this with JB Weld and the pieces came apart on me after the rebuild. Luckily, I found the piece that was missing in my driveway. I had to really slab the JB weld on all around and let it cure totally and now all is good. Honestly, I dont think super glue is going to hold the two halves back together for very long--If that is what the super glue you are referring to was for.

600RR

FWIW. I used my all-purpose go-to product and it has held for ten years = ShoeGoo. Great adhesive and can be removed with GooGone.

speyer911

Just finished! Used 5 min epoxy and then wrapped the cable. I also put some silicone sealer at the cable entrance as this seems to be where the water got in. I then got in the car turned the key and found out my battery was dead. Left the trunk open overnight. Will just have to wait to see if it works and is silent.