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Dual Distributor Bearings

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Old 01-14-2015, 06:56 PM
  #31  
IXLR8
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Originally Posted by 993BillW
For those of us that don't read German and don't order from Ebay-DE on a regular basis is there a way to get an English translated page? I'd hate to screw up the order.
Bill,

I just e-mail Dirk and he sends a PayPal invoice. He understands English.
Old 01-14-2015, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by deekay911
Edited accordingly.
OK, I'll do the math for those who are interested.

They should cost about US$55 each.
Old 01-14-2015, 07:04 PM
  #33  
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The guy I posted on eBay is fluent in English. Google can usually translate pages.
Old 01-14-2015, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by IXLR8
Bill,

I just e-mail Dirk and he sends a PayPal invoice. He understands English.
Thanks, email sent.
dirk.schluecking@dswaelzlager.de is the email address on the eBay listing.
Old 01-14-2015, 09:19 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by IXLR8
OK, I'll do the math for those who are interested.

They should cost about US$55 each.
Correct, I wasn't trying to be subversive in anyway and certainly not trying to make any money on these. I travel to the UK regularly, and since its relatively easy to ship from Germany to the UK, and not so easy to get them to the US, was just trying to do a favour for a few fellow rennlisters by buying a few extra sets. They are spoken for now.
Old 01-14-2015, 09:33 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by deekay911
I wasn't trying to be subversive...
I don't know how or why that forum rule came about, but if it applies to one, it applies to all.

I see nothing wrong with "open to offers" or whatever. And when you get down to it, you can always post $1M and open to offers. This is listing a price.

Dirk must be selling a ton of these. Nine in my area alone.
Old 01-15-2015, 10:30 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
DE Ebay for ~50 euro:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/1x-***-Schrae...-/141081319380

They quote 28.50 euro DHL up to 1kg a few months ago.
Originally Posted by x50type
€41.93 without VAT for US buyers.

Originally Posted by IXLR8
It looks like his web site and ebay pricing are the same now.

I just ordered the bearings from his web site a week ago for €47.90 each when his ebay site was charging €49.90. Now they are both €49.90.

At once every 120K+ miles, no big deal though.

Correction, looking at Ed's link, he now upped his ebay price to €51.50.

And again, if you look at the small print below the €51.50 price on ebay, you'll see €43.28 exkl MwSt. That means without value added tax which is what the price should be when shipped out of the EU.
Just got the PayPal invoice from Dirk.
3 x e55.90 = e167.70 (still charging VAT??)
e28.50 shipping
e 197.20 total
Old 01-15-2015, 10:39 AM
  #38  
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He deducted VAT from mine, total was in the mid 170 Euro range.
Old 01-15-2015, 10:54 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 993BillW
Just got the PayPal invoice from Dirk.
Demand increases and so did his pricing, I guess. Still a lot cheaper than locally.

I bought a nice Ridgid vise off Amazon and snapped it up at $130.89. Later that day it was $163. Two days later it was $263.61. Go figure...like the stock market.
Old 02-19-2015, 05:25 AM
  #40  
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Let me revive this informative thread.

My distributor is currently partly apart, with the main shaft out but all three bearings 7201-BE-2RS-AH01 still in place. They look in good shape and since the removal procedure is not that easy (heating etc) I may leave them there.

On the other hand, I would like to replace the other bearing, at the end of the main dist housing (I believe it is an INA NX12); reason is that when I was trying to get the gear pin out I initially tried to punch it out instead of drilling it; that proved to be a dead end and had to drill it our eventually but I fear I may have damaged the NX12 bearing in the process.

Question is: I realize this “fourth” bearing is normally in good shape and not so critical to replace but, in case you would need/want to, would you need also to heat the alu housing in order to get it out?

Many thanks guys.
Old 02-19-2015, 09:20 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Nautilus
I realize this “fourth” bearing is normally in good shape and not so critical to replace but, in case you would need/want to, would you need also to heat the alu housing in order to get it out?
I haven't had to yet but my guess is that you would use a blind hole bearing puller to remove it. At least that bearing is readily available from any bearing shop.

Old 02-19-2015, 09:32 AM
  #42  
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If, when you attempted to drive out the pin, the drive gear was solidly supported on the opposite side - and not the aluminum casting .. then the needle bearing should not have been damaged. It is very robust

When I (recently) rebuilt mine, I also attempted to tap out the pin after drilling off the 'mushroomed' ends and supporting the opposed side of the drive gear over a socket - no luck!

I had assumed the lower shaft to be solid, so it would have a clean hole containing the pin .... not so. The shaft is hollow, such that when the (new) pin is expanded/mushroomed to secure it, the malleable steel pin ALSO expands within the hollow shaft. It becomes well secured !!

Drilling is the method.
Old 02-19-2015, 09:40 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Garth S
I also attempted to tap out the pin after drilling off the 'mushroomed' ends and supporting the opposed side of the drive gear over a socket - no luck!
That is because rivets that are "driven" or "bucked" end up expanding within the hole to take up any gaps in the process.

Originally Posted by Garth S
I had assumed the lower shaft to be solid, so it would have a clean hole containing the pin .... not so. The shaft is hollow, such that when the (new) pin is expanded/mushroomed to secure it, the malleable steel pin ALSO expands within the hollow shaft. It becomes well secured !!
The shaft was solid in all the distributors I've rebuilt.
Old 02-21-2015, 06:12 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by IXLR8
I haven't had to yet but my guess is that you would use a blind hole bearing puller to remove it. At least that bearing is readily available from any bearing shop.
Thanks Alex; I'll try to get one of those pullers and see if I can take it out. By the way, let me take this opportunity to thank you for the info about the part number of the main bearings
Originally Posted by Garth S
If, when you attempted to drive out the pin, the drive gear was solidly supported on the opposite side - and not the aluminum casting .. then the needle bearing should not have been damaged. It is very robust
Thanks Garth. I tried to support the gear on a wood block but I think I got a bit carried away when trying to punch the pin out ...what I think I'll do is to get one new NX12 bearing and compare the play it has with the one in the distributor, then I'll decide if it is worth trying to replace.
Old 02-22-2015, 07:14 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Nautilus
By the way, let me take this opportunity to thank you for the info about the part number of the main bearings
We all knew what the INA bearing part number was but until someone brought it up recently, that bearing did not even show up on a Google search a few years ago.

In fact try to get INA Schaeffler USA to admit that it is available. Yet for some reason it is available from quite a few sources in Europe.

I would bet that the AH01 portion of the distributor bearing part number means that it is available to Bosch only, just as AH04 means the part is available to Porsche only (eg: fan hub bearing).


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