LAT

I was out goofing around with my friend who owns a Mustang Bullit and we did three runs from a rolling start at the local drag strip and then we did a standing start. You will be glad to know that the P-car honor has been upheld.

Unfortunately on the standing start my engine went to 6,000 rpm and I wasn't moving anywhere fast and we could smell clutch. I let the engine cool for a few minutes and then we drove away like civilized humans and had a coffee and the clutch no longer slipped.

My question is, did my clutch overheat because I was rodding it or is it on the way out?

I don't normally drag my car so I don't know its limitations.

Thanks


Levino

997 C4 Cab
Eruo M030 w/swaybars
G64/21
Motorsound Exhaust and Intake
BK strut bar
Gert front bar
Aerokit 1a

poorb0yw

What rpm did you drop the clutch at during that standing start?

LAT

3,000 rpm

Rick Lee

Do you really own a 997 C4 Cab? Clutch should be next to new on those cars.

Terry Adams

0-60 in about 5 secs, and put $50 in the clutch kitty every time you do it. The clutch did it's job, and sounds like you don't need a new one - yet.

LAT

Rick, yes it is a 97 C4 Cab with 37,600 miles on it and it that usually runs like a dream.

Thanks Terry, I trust you are correct but I may pick up a spare clutch in case I need one soon, my next dillema is do I go to LWF or stick to what I have?

Always something....:-)

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

LAT:

LOL,...You certainly didn't do the dual-mass flywheel or clutch disc any favors,.....

If it were me, I'd budget for replacing those items with the RS LWF kit when its time.

I don't think you hurt the disc, but the dual-mass flywheel is the "fuse" in these cases.

graham_mitchell

LAT, I think Rick was referring to the fact that your signature states "997 C4 Cab" and not "97 C4 Cab".

The 997 C4 is so new that you can't buy it yet

LAT

I must have been dreamin at the keyboard....I must repeat 100x 1997..1997...1997...1997..1997 how am I doin..

Steve, should I have the flywheel removed and machined when I install the new clutch?

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

LAT:

Not unless the surface is really scored,....

I'm not an advocate of machining or resurfacing flywheels; IMHO, they are similar to brake rotors and if they get scored or damaged, I simply replace them.

This ensures a long clutch life (I know people with over 125K on the original clutch parts).

LAT

Steve,
I drive a cabriolet and I don't like a lot of engine noise, I had a pair of Maxflow mufflers and I removed them because of the resonance. How would you compare the noise from the gearbox/motor with the LWF versus the DMF?

Thanks

Levino

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Levino:

The only time I notice any difference is at low RPM in 2nd or 3rd gear at or below 2500 RPM. Under those conditions, you will get some gear rattle through the tunnel with the LWF setup.

Lugging the engine, in gear oughta be taboo,...

Aside from the much quicker throttle response, I prefer the LWF over the DMF for its MUCH better durability ('specially when people drag race).

Flying Finn

Steve,

Since we were talking about brake rotors... How can one orevent rotors from cracking?
I have OEM rotors and after two track days (Sebring & Moroso) they are already cracked. Not from hole to hole or from hole to the edge but small cracks anyway. When I fitted them (& Performance Friction 97 pads) I bedded them as per your procedure.

Levino,

sorry for "robbing" your thread a bit.

DJF1

Just for reference, with the Andial midweight flywheel I have not observed any rattling at all.

Edward

Hi Danny,

Forgive me if you've already answered this question in the past, but did you go with the Andial because you have a 95 and wanted to avoid the stalling issue? I'm curious for down the road. I'm currently at 77K with what still feels like a strong clutch with smooth engagement (looking for wood to knock...), but have tried to follow all the threads on the LWF in anticipation for the inevitable new clutch (hopefully later than sooner). When it's time, I hope to have the funds to do the gears, as well, but I also don't want to compromise (not too much, anyway ) what is my daily driver just for some hoots at the track. So since there's lots already been said about the LWF/RS (or turbo) clutch, I'd like your overall opinion of the Andial FW. Or more specifically: it's driveability on street, any stalling, any special way you've got to get off the gas, noise at idle, what clutch are you using, and anything else that you think may be relevant? TIA, I value your input.

Edward
EDIT: sorry, didn't mean to hi-jack the thread with an offtopic