Calling All SAI Port Drillers - Suggestions? Help ?
08-13-2014, 02:29 PM
#16
Banned
Thread Starter
SAI CLEAN OUT ROADBLOCK
Hi Thanks for your reply. I follow what u r saying.
I tried this with a piece of clear plastic, about a 1/4 inch diameter this AM with a Speedo Cable off a Motorcycle. No Luck. Think I will try again - Perhaps the bits I used were too Long - so I will try different lengths as u suggest.- toi eliminate the flexxing.
I was using a DeWalt 12V.
I will find a Variable Speed drill and give it another try.
Thanks Tom
I tried this with a piece of clear plastic, about a 1/4 inch diameter this AM with a Speedo Cable off a Motorcycle. No Luck. Think I will try again - Perhaps the bits I used were too Long - so I will try different lengths as u suggest.- toi eliminate the flexxing.
I was using a DeWalt 12V.
I will find a Variable Speed drill and give it another try.
Thanks Tom
The idea is to feed the inner cable only into the port. You cut a length of the outer sheath long enough to hold onto and also to reach past the exhaust valve and rest against the hole.
You hold the other end of this outer sheath and feed the inner cable through it into the hole.
You put the inner wire in your battery operated drill chuck (must be a variable speed drill).
Then you feed the inner wire through the outer sheath and slowly into the hole.
The outer sheath is there to prevent the inner wire from bending and buckling.
Make sure the direction of the drill is the same as the twist in the inner cable. You will need 3 or 4 lengths of inner cable each one a little longer than the last.
J.
You hold the other end of this outer sheath and feed the inner cable through it into the hole.
You put the inner wire in your battery operated drill chuck (must be a variable speed drill).
Then you feed the inner wire through the outer sheath and slowly into the hole.
The outer sheath is there to prevent the inner wire from bending and buckling.
Make sure the direction of the drill is the same as the twist in the inner cable. You will need 3 or 4 lengths of inner cable each one a little longer than the last.
J.
08-13-2014, 04:19 PM
#17
Drifting
How about something like music wire? You could try it to get through the "hard stuff" and then go back through with your braided wire. Only a suggestion as I'm unfamiliar with the process.
08-13-2014, 09:17 PM
#18
Instructor
I did mine with the engine out and turned upside down on the engine stand...so obviously a whole lot easier to get to. I'm not an expert, but here are my observations from what I did.
* I used bicycle brake cable. Go to a bike shop and buy some nice new fresh brake cable without the sheath - any respectable bike shop would have it. Buy a couple of lengths. There is absolutely no way any bit can get in there as Mark D. points out.
* Use very sharp cutters (or ask the bike shop to do it) and cut the cable into roughly 12 inch lengths. You want a clean cut so the cable doesn't fray. It likely will anyways, but the longer the better so it can drill longer.
* I used my Dremmel on low / next speed up. Not too fast so it doesn't fray. You just have to keep working it in there and push / pull out / push...you get the idea I'm sure
.
* You really have to work it. I had some that cleared quickly, others I thought were cleared, and they when I tired to test with air compressor, I didn't get flow. So redid a couple. Sooner or later you'll feel it go freely through. They will fray, you'll just have to pull out the strands with pliers...unravel that strand, cut, and go back in. At some point you'll have to go to a new strand of cable.
* For me, mine seemed so hard, I can't say that Techron did anything. If you're drilling, no way a chemical is going to cut through it. I was doing it with engine upside down, so I made sure each exhaust valve was closed and I was putting a lot of techron in there and I don't think it did much...and you be putting it in from the top down (opposite end of the plugged port)...so likely its doing nothing except getting in your eyes. Techron is probably good to clean it out once done.
* Once you got them cleared, you want to blow compressed air through the SAI valve hole, and make sure each and every port is flowing cleanly.
Best of luck!
* I used bicycle brake cable. Go to a bike shop and buy some nice new fresh brake cable without the sheath - any respectable bike shop would have it. Buy a couple of lengths. There is absolutely no way any bit can get in there as Mark D. points out.
* Use very sharp cutters (or ask the bike shop to do it) and cut the cable into roughly 12 inch lengths. You want a clean cut so the cable doesn't fray. It likely will anyways, but the longer the better so it can drill longer.
* I used my Dremmel on low / next speed up. Not too fast so it doesn't fray. You just have to keep working it in there and push / pull out / push...you get the idea I'm sure
.* You really have to work it. I had some that cleared quickly, others I thought were cleared, and they when I tired to test with air compressor, I didn't get flow. So redid a couple. Sooner or later you'll feel it go freely through. They will fray, you'll just have to pull out the strands with pliers...unravel that strand, cut, and go back in. At some point you'll have to go to a new strand of cable.
* For me, mine seemed so hard, I can't say that Techron did anything. If you're drilling, no way a chemical is going to cut through it. I was doing it with engine upside down, so I made sure each exhaust valve was closed and I was putting a lot of techron in there and I don't think it did much...and you be putting it in from the top down (opposite end of the plugged port)...so likely its doing nothing except getting in your eyes. Techron is probably good to clean it out once done.
* Once you got them cleared, you want to blow compressed air through the SAI valve hole, and make sure each and every port is flowing cleanly.
Best of luck!
Last edited by mstolo; 08-13-2014 at 09:18 PM. Reason: mispelled.
08-13-2014, 10:04 PM
#19
Banned
Thread Starter
SAI PORT DRILLING
Hi Yes, I went into a Music Store Last eve for a look - There are Other Posts here about using a Bass guitar String.
The Post looked Impressive But when i went into the store there was nothing similar available as per the Post, all strings were similar to the Bicycle Brake cable in diameter.
Thanks for your suggestion, perhaps I should contact the writer
TJ
The Post looked Impressive But when i went into the store there was nothing similar available as per the Post, all strings were similar to the Bicycle Brake cable in diameter.
Thanks for your suggestion, perhaps I should contact the writer
TJ
08-13-2014, 10:12 PM
#20
Banned
Thread Starter
SAI PORT DRILLING
This sounds Oh So familiar!
Tedious and requires a great deal of Patience for sure.
I am working underneath the car - I have parts that hurt that I thought IO no longer had - LOL
I have shaved the cable to the wire and was only able to get to the elbow. I am stuck.
Considering I am on my back I guess Exhaust Ports are Not an Issue??
Are there other concerns with this approach? Am i missing something?
I think I will go the Compressor route tomorrow am
Can not see it working with the elbow jammed. Suggestions?
Thanks Tom
Tedious and requires a great deal of Patience for sure.
I am working underneath the car - I have parts that hurt that I thought IO no longer had - LOL
I have shaved the cable to the wire and was only able to get to the elbow. I am stuck.
Considering I am on my back I guess Exhaust Ports are Not an Issue??
Are there other concerns with this approach? Am i missing something?
I think I will go the Compressor route tomorrow am
Can not see it working with the elbow jammed. Suggestions?
Thanks Tom
I did mine with the engine out and turned upside down on the engine stand...so obviously a whole lot easier to get to. I'm not an expert, but here are my observations from what I did.
* I used bicycle brake cable. Go to a bike shop and buy some nice new fresh brake cable without the sheath - any respectable bike shop would have it. Buy a couple of lengths. There is absolutely no way any bit can get in there as Mark D. points out.
* Use very sharp cutters (or ask the bike shop to do it) and cut the cable into roughly 12 inch lengths. You want a clean cut so the cable doesn't fray. It likely will anyways, but the longer the better so it can drill longer.
* I used my Dremmel on low / next speed up. Not too fast so it doesn't fray. You just have to keep working it in there and push / pull out / push...you get the idea I'm sure.
* You really have to work it. I had some that cleared quickly, others I thought were cleared, and they when I tired to test with air compressor, I didn't get flow. So redid a couple. Sooner or later you'll feel it go freely through. They will fray, you'll just have to pull out the strands with pliers...unravel that strand, cut, and go back in. At some point you'll have to go to a new strand of cable.
* For me, mine seemed so hard, I can't say that Techron did anything. If you're drilling, no way a chemical is going to cut through it. I was doing it with engine upside down, so I made sure each exhaust valve was closed and I was putting a lot of techron in there and I don't think it did much...and you be putting it in from the top down (opposite end of the plugged port)...so likely its doing nothing except getting in your eyes. Techron is probably good to clean it out once done.
* Once you got them cleared, you want to blow compressed air through the SAI valve hole, and make sure each and every port is flowing cleanly.
Best of luck!
* I used bicycle brake cable. Go to a bike shop and buy some nice new fresh brake cable without the sheath - any respectable bike shop would have it. Buy a couple of lengths. There is absolutely no way any bit can get in there as Mark D. points out.
* Use very sharp cutters (or ask the bike shop to do it) and cut the cable into roughly 12 inch lengths. You want a clean cut so the cable doesn't fray. It likely will anyways, but the longer the better so it can drill longer.
* I used my Dremmel on low / next speed up. Not too fast so it doesn't fray. You just have to keep working it in there and push / pull out / push...you get the idea I'm sure
.* You really have to work it. I had some that cleared quickly, others I thought were cleared, and they when I tired to test with air compressor, I didn't get flow. So redid a couple. Sooner or later you'll feel it go freely through. They will fray, you'll just have to pull out the strands with pliers...unravel that strand, cut, and go back in. At some point you'll have to go to a new strand of cable.
* For me, mine seemed so hard, I can't say that Techron did anything. If you're drilling, no way a chemical is going to cut through it. I was doing it with engine upside down, so I made sure each exhaust valve was closed and I was putting a lot of techron in there and I don't think it did much...and you be putting it in from the top down (opposite end of the plugged port)...so likely its doing nothing except getting in your eyes. Techron is probably good to clean it out once done.
* Once you got them cleared, you want to blow compressed air through the SAI valve hole, and make sure each and every port is flowing cleanly.
Best of luck!
08-13-2014, 10:19 PM
#21
Banned
Thread Starter
found this - But not available here in Wallymart canuckville aka Canada Eh
PCV OR EGR Cleaning Kit
http://www.walmart.com/ip/SUR-and-R-...Specifications
Anyone Recognize these Bits?
PCV OR EGR Cleaning Kit
http://www.walmart.com/ip/SUR-and-R-...Specifications
Anyone Recognize these Bits?
08-14-2014, 01:03 AM
#22
To give you an idea, this is the cable I used. It's the one in the middle. The cable on the right is a bass guitar string for comparison. The black sheath is pretty thick and stiff and kept the cable from bending. The total length of the cable was about a foot and this shorter length also kept it from bending. I chucked it to a corded drill as it gave me much more torque than a cordless. The thicker the cable, the better because then your passages will be bigger after you break through.
08-14-2014, 05:34 PM
#23
Banned
Thread Starter
SAI PORT DRILLING
I was trying this Speedo Cable, square at the bottom from a Kawasaki H1.
Perhaps there was too much flex with the Larger tube? (last Pic)
Next pics are the Drain Testers for boman
I am going to try the cable one more time.
Thanks for posting - the Pic SURE Helps
Now I know what to look for!
Appreciated
TJ
PS
WHAT DO U THINK OF THIS FLEXIBLE DRILL BIT
Thank u To gtex auto for the Pic - on ebay
Perhaps there was too much flex with the Larger tube? (last Pic)
Next pics are the Drain Testers for boman
I am going to try the cable one more time.
Thanks for posting - the Pic SURE Helps
Now I know what to look for!
Appreciated
TJ
PS
WHAT DO U THINK OF THIS FLEXIBLE DRILL BIT
Thank u To gtex auto for the Pic - on ebay
To give you an idea, this is the cable I used. It's the one in the middle. The cable on the right is a bass guitar string for comparison. The black sheath is pretty thick and stiff and kept the cable from bending. The total length of the cable was about a foot and this shorter length also kept it from bending. I chucked it to a corded drill as it gave me much more torque than a cordless. The thicker the cable, the better because then your passages will be bigger after you break through.
08-14-2014, 06:57 PM
#24
Depending on the outside diameter, I like the flexible drill shank. I would want a 3"- 4" tube down towards the business end, for added stability.
Hang in there...You'll break through!
Hang in there...You'll break through!
08-14-2014, 10:58 PM
#25
Banned
Thread Starter
SAI PORT DRILLING
yes It looks Interesting - found that on Ebay.
Shopping for tools here is a Nightmare!
I found the egr clean out kit at Walmart But its only available in the US !
Considering relocation!
Atleast I could get the good stuff to fix my 993 !
I wrote the owner / seller to check on Diameter.
This could be a Good Tool to have in the Tool Box.???????????
Wonder if anyone here has tried this idea or other tools that gave results?
Tom
Shopping for tools here is a Nightmare!
I found the egr clean out kit at Walmart But its only available in the US !
Considering relocation!
Atleast I could get the good stuff to fix my 993 !
I wrote the owner / seller to check on Diameter.
This could be a Good Tool to have in the Tool Box.???????????
Wonder if anyone here has tried this idea or other tools that gave results?
Tom
08-15-2014, 05:40 PM
#27
Banned
Thread Starter
SAI PORT DRILLING
the speedo wire shredded this am !
Sea Foam marine is just sittin on top!
Then I found some 1/8th air craft wire - kinda like Picture Frame wire - woven
Hope 1/8 th inch gets in!
Fingers Crossed!!
Sea Foam marine is just sittin on top!
Then I found some 1/8th air craft wire - kinda like Picture Frame wire - woven
Hope 1/8 th inch gets in!
Fingers Crossed!!
08-16-2014, 06:43 PM
#28
Banned
Thread Starter
Finally found whats called Air Craft wire - woven Stainless Steel - 12 pieces tightly woven into 1/8 th of an inch thickness. Similar to Picture hanging wire.
Found another trick, not sure If I missed it in all my reading here on RL But:
You have to use a corded drill, variable speed, Reversible so u can drill the cable in the direction of the cable weave?
Then squirt in maybe some Deep Creep or G9 Carb & Intake Cleaner as Lube.
Hopefully the 1/8th cable with hold?
Not sure if I missed something else?? Suggestions...
Found another trick, not sure If I missed it in all my reading here on RL But:
You have to use a corded drill, variable speed, Reversible so u can drill the cable in the direction of the cable weave?
Then squirt in maybe some Deep Creep or G9 Carb & Intake Cleaner as Lube.
Hopefully the 1/8th cable with hold?
Not sure if I missed something else?? Suggestions...
09-05-2014, 01:37 PM
#29
Banned
Thread Starter
UPDATE
Drilling with Bicycle Wire / Air Compressor / Fitting + Teechron & Sea Foam = Success
Ports were so Blocked that not only did I have to shoot the SeaFoam in from the Bottom, then Drill using the Bicycle Cable I also had to inject cleaners from the Top by Compressor at 100PSI with a fitting made from my old Check Valve.
Its been 1000 Miles ! No CEL !! Yes - Success
Car is Running Good, Feels Better - Now its time for Fine Tuning
I will update with some Pics soon. Any questions let me know - Be Glad to help!
Cheers Everyone!
Drilling with Bicycle Wire / Air Compressor / Fitting + Teechron & Sea Foam = Success
Ports were so Blocked that not only did I have to shoot the SeaFoam in from the Bottom, then Drill using the Bicycle Cable I also had to inject cleaners from the Top by Compressor at 100PSI with a fitting made from my old Check Valve.
Its been 1000 Miles ! No CEL !! Yes - Success
Car is Running Good, Feels Better - Now its time for Fine Tuning
I will update with some Pics soon. Any questions let me know - Be Glad to help!
Cheers Everyone!
Last edited by TJ993; 09-05-2014 at 01:39 PM. Reason: typo
09-05-2014, 09:08 PM
#30
Drifting
Sweet! Glad it worked out! Mine cleared too.
It took a bit more drilling and carb cleaner through the bottom and the top once I put my engine back in, but the whole system is completely clear now. I also picked up 5 pipe testers from a local hardware store to plug the exhaust chambers when I was shooting compressed air through. These were an integral component in the procedure and really helped to force the air through specific ports. However!! Once I was finished with them, the plastic that they were made out of, began to loose its structural integrity, I guess from the carb cleaner! So anyone setting up to DIY this: be careful, if I did a few more flushes, these would've probably melted into a sticky goo.
These are the plugs I bought, but 1.5".... (I suppose you could get metal ones to avoid any weird chemistry going on with your carbon eating chemical of choice..)
It took a bit more drilling and carb cleaner through the bottom and the top once I put my engine back in, but the whole system is completely clear now. I also picked up 5 pipe testers from a local hardware store to plug the exhaust chambers when I was shooting compressed air through. These were an integral component in the procedure and really helped to force the air through specific ports. However!! Once I was finished with them, the plastic that they were made out of, began to loose its structural integrity, I guess from the carb cleaner! So anyone setting up to DIY this: be careful, if I did a few more flushes, these would've probably melted into a sticky goo.
These are the plugs I bought, but 1.5".... (I suppose you could get metal ones to avoid any weird chemistry going on with your carbon eating chemical of choice..)