To Walrod or not to Walrod? That is the question.
07-02-2014, 06:30 PM
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm not quite ready to embrace that *phase* of 993 ownership. Once it is no longer a DD and is a fully paid off toy, I'll being exploring that world.
07-02-2014, 07:08 PM
#18
Intermediate
Join Date: Jul 2005
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most of the cost of installing new bushing is the labor. might as well go top shelf. my pro coach (who is a multiple rolex 24 champion) states that the 993 is his favorite car. the 993 tracks like a train on rails with mono ***** up front. he states that unlike the 997 cup- "you can still "work the car". same analogy as forged irons vs cast irons while playing golf. trust me, mono ***** in to front only will not make your car uncomfortable for long distant trips.--- (only if you do mono ***** in the rear} again, once you do mono *****, you never go back.
07-02-2014, 07:33 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Just a suggestion , now that you are going with the (excellent) Walrod LCR bushings, you may consider 'pinning' the inner tie rod ends ---easy ( & cheap) to do, and IMHO, it really tightens up the steering response.
07-02-2014, 08:19 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Marco Island, FL and sometimes New Jersey
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Spidey - I will add to this. I put the walrods on the Targa. They made a nice difference. Definitely took out the steering vagueness at 30-40 mph and improved overall confidence.
The new car has monoballs. There definitely is a difference. The monoballs take it up a notch. Another rennlister who drove the car couldn't get over how smooth it was. Monoballs give you more performance at the expense of durability.
The slippery slope...
/
The new car has monoballs. There definitely is a difference. The monoballs take it up a notch. Another rennlister who drove the car couldn't get over how smooth it was. Monoballs give you more performance at the expense of durability.
The slippery slope...
/
07-02-2014, 10:15 PM
#21
You'll want to kick yourself later if you dont put them in while this work is being done. Just the cost of alignment and corner balancing should help tip the scales in favor of installation, imho
Hey fatmike, so monoballs do not have an appreciable longevity/durability? Are they rebuildable? And if so, at what kind of expense? Without being intimately knowledgable on their construction, I would think they would outlast the OEM rubberized bushed setup. What about sealed monoballs to extend the durability factor?
If not mistaken, one of our sponsors, (Elephant Racing) produces such an animal, yes?
Monoballs give you more performance at the expense of durability.
If not mistaken, one of our sponsors, (Elephant Racing) produces such an animal, yes?
Last edited by nine9six; 07-02-2014 at 10:32 PM.
07-02-2014, 11:22 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
I always laugh at the people on this site that state their original bushings "look fine" or "are fine" and don't need replacement. Rubber simply doesn't remain unchanged in 20 years.
This statement is not directed at you, but rather at some who are in denial.
The whole OEM, Elephant, Walrod debate on which way to go on the new ones has been done a lot of times here. So, nothing to be gained on that. But I, as a lot of others here, have put Walrods on with great success and no negative feedback. Mine was the 55mph shimmy, that is now gone.
This statement is not directed at you, but rather at some who are in denial.
The whole OEM, Elephant, Walrod debate on which way to go on the new ones has been done a lot of times here. So, nothing to be gained on that. But I, as a lot of others here, have put Walrods on with great success and no negative feedback. Mine was the 55mph shimmy, that is now gone.
07-02-2014, 11:25 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
For the performance and peace of mind, the $400-500 is completely worth it. Do it.
07-03-2014, 12:59 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
Labor is almost dead even to refurb front control arms
We install both
Walrod PU bushings are best value for $. particularly for street and DE
Elephant Racing products are excellent but...
It is a decision based on purpose and to spend the extra dollars, the purpose is usually quite different
We install both
Walrod PU bushings are best value for $. particularly for street and DE
Elephant Racing products are excellent but...
It is a decision based on purpose and to spend the extra dollars, the purpose is usually quite different
07-03-2014, 01:48 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
do it, they are excellent!
07-03-2014, 02:23 PM
#28
Racer
Join Date: Jul 2003
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I have a brand new, complete set of Walrod bushings and grease I bought about 6 months ago that I would sell for $80. I ended up going with Porsche RS control arms instead.
$80 delivered
$80 delivered
07-03-2014, 07:57 PM
#30
Your 993 has
in front: 5 horizontal and 2 vertical bearings
in back : 10 horizontal and 8 vertical bearings
All of them can contribute to slop and or vagueness to various extents many of them can be maladjusted which is worse
There should be a match between the front and the back for best most predictable results
The stock rubber bushes were not something anyone complained about when new, but they do soften and get sloppy now that they are getting to be 20 +/- years old.
Your choice is to replace w/ stock rubber, sport rubber(ala oe RS), Walrod, or Spherical joint(aka mono-*****)
stock rubber bushes have no sliding parts, the only wear occurs when the rubber deteriorates w/ age and use, they are a press fit into the track arm
The factory tightened up the suspension on the RS front and back w/ spherical joints on the 4 shock tops and stiffer rubber bushes at 4 points in front and 4 points in back.
In front the rear arms of the track arm have stiffer rubber bushes as do the 2 steering tie rods
in back KT arm #4 and the trailing track arm #5 have stiffer rubber bushes as do the 4 subframe mounts, the result is reduced KT(IMO a good thing)
You would do well to emulate the factory RS suspension, a tweek would be to use sport rubber bushes on the leading front track arm too, a further tweek is to use RS wheel carriers and tie rods(you do have a lowered more performance oriented car after all). For aggressive street use and mild track use this is just about a perfect way to go w/ good modern shocks that are valved for the car.
Wallrods are just a steel sleeve on which the track arm bolts ride, the outer p/u bush a light press fit in the track arm, they rely heavily on lubrication to prevent noise and wear, primary attraction they are inexpensive
A spherical joint rides on a teflon liner
Here are the parts for a full mono-ball suspension, ecluding shock tops, tie rods and rear toe arms
RSR track arm
the Walrods come out and sealed mono-***** go in
The final pieces
GT2evo/RSR tierods, the top is stock outer/inner, bottomis RS outer w/ GT2/RSR mono-ball inner
Front installed
Rear installed, w/ mono-ball toe links
The final piece of the puzzle is the side mounts
get rid of the soft rubber bushes
replace w/ solid bushes
I wouldn't change a thing on a stock car until I could do the system front and rear
I'd want matching components to get the most predictable results, ie all stock, all RS or all mono-ball(there are some parts that can be individually used but you on't get the full benefit that way)
If I had $500 to throw at a stockish car I'd buy RS f/r sway bars first, do the shock tops next, followed by the RS wheel carriers and rear solid sides then do all the horizontal arms as a coordinated system, for street RS or RS+(4 sport bushes in front) or RS++(swap in mono-ball rear toe arms), for track all mono-ball w/ some really good modern shocks.
in front: 5 horizontal and 2 vertical bearings
in back : 10 horizontal and 8 vertical bearings
All of them can contribute to slop and or vagueness to various extents many of them can be maladjusted which is worse
There should be a match between the front and the back for best most predictable results
The stock rubber bushes were not something anyone complained about when new, but they do soften and get sloppy now that they are getting to be 20 +/- years old.
Your choice is to replace w/ stock rubber, sport rubber(ala oe RS), Walrod, or Spherical joint(aka mono-*****)
stock rubber bushes have no sliding parts, the only wear occurs when the rubber deteriorates w/ age and use, they are a press fit into the track arm
The factory tightened up the suspension on the RS front and back w/ spherical joints on the 4 shock tops and stiffer rubber bushes at 4 points in front and 4 points in back.
In front the rear arms of the track arm have stiffer rubber bushes as do the 2 steering tie rods
in back KT arm #4 and the trailing track arm #5 have stiffer rubber bushes as do the 4 subframe mounts, the result is reduced KT(IMO a good thing)
You would do well to emulate the factory RS suspension, a tweek would be to use sport rubber bushes on the leading front track arm too, a further tweek is to use RS wheel carriers and tie rods(you do have a lowered more performance oriented car after all). For aggressive street use and mild track use this is just about a perfect way to go w/ good modern shocks that are valved for the car.
Wallrods are just a steel sleeve on which the track arm bolts ride, the outer p/u bush a light press fit in the track arm, they rely heavily on lubrication to prevent noise and wear, primary attraction they are inexpensive
A spherical joint rides on a teflon liner
Here are the parts for a full mono-ball suspension, ecluding shock tops, tie rods and rear toe arms
RSR track arm
the Walrods come out and sealed mono-***** go in
The final pieces
GT2evo/RSR tierods, the top is stock outer/inner, bottomis RS outer w/ GT2/RSR mono-ball inner
Front installed
Rear installed, w/ mono-ball toe links
The final piece of the puzzle is the side mounts
get rid of the soft rubber bushes
replace w/ solid bushes
I wouldn't change a thing on a stock car until I could do the system front and rear
I'd want matching components to get the most predictable results, ie all stock, all RS or all mono-ball(there are some parts that can be individually used but you on't get the full benefit that way)
If I had $500 to throw at a stockish car I'd buy RS f/r sway bars first, do the shock tops next, followed by the RS wheel carriers and rear solid sides then do all the horizontal arms as a coordinated system, for street RS or RS+(4 sport bushes in front) or RS++(swap in mono-ball rear toe arms), for track all mono-ball w/ some really good modern shocks.