I know most of y'all are manual tranny drivers (I'm still searching with my left foot for the clutch too), but help me here.

About a second after the shift to 2nd there's a hiccup like it wants to shift again, but doesn't.

Is this right? (I'm a new owner of a '96 w/77k miles). If not are we talking $, $$, $$$ or $$$$ to repair?

Thankx!

 

Mine has that too...

 

Mine has the same behaviour.

It feels like a "slipping clutch" when it goes into second, except there is no slip - it accelerates fine. Weird, might be some sort of built in thing that gets the revs up when it first slots into second.

Pete.

 

It is normal. It is the torque converter. I think of it as similar to the way a clutch engages. I only drive my car in the manual mode. Never in the automatic "D" mode. This actually makes it possible to match revs on manual down shifts. I ease off the gas on up shifts (just like with a clutch). Driving this way makes it very similar to dirving a manual trans w/o the clutch.

I can post a more detailed technique of what I do if anyone is interested.

Possible new topic: "How do you drive your Tip?"

 

This is 100% normal and the explanation for it is covered in several places including in the technical Q & A on the PCA website. IIRC the official terminology for this event is "low-slip upshift." So, the cost to repair is $0. ;-)

Like Fbfisher I drive my Tiptronic 99% in manual mode and what a difference if you take the time to learn the tips and tricks of this trans! It is a very underated transmission, and IME most people who don't like Tiptronics have never driven one, or at least have never driven one in manual mode using some good shifting techniques.

Please do post any techniques you use and like, maybe I'll learn a new one. :-)

 

It would be interesting to compare driving techniques. Please post!

 

Darn it! I wanted to be the HWFM Tipspert (not sure I like the way that sounds but maybe that will be just the thing to get me in).

 

FB

It is the mechanical lock up in the torque converter. It only happens if you are driving gingerly - if you stick you boot into the throttle hard, it locks up straight away and you don't notice it.

There was a longish thread on the 964 board about various aspects of the tip box. The workshop manual has a reasonably detailed tip section, including a general description of how it works and a very comprehensive 'troubleshooting' guide for fault finding.

The one thing that is really imperative is ATF fluid level and quality. The ATF fluid is VERY important to the operation of the box, as all the hydraulic aspects of the operation of the box depends on it. You are probably aware that there is a separate oil cooler for the ATF fluid - it piggy backs onto the engine oil cooler in the front wing. Its pretty important that all this is working, ie your cooling fan, as ATF really likes to be at 80deg C.

The tiptronic is controlled by an electronic control unit (ECU) and an hydraulic control unit (HCU). Basically, if you are having any problems, one or the other of these gets replaced, as they are non-servicable items.

If you have a copy of the manuals the section is worth a read.

 

Yep - I'd be interested! I've started driving my 964 tip like a manual (ie lifting off between upshifts), particularly as at around 4000rpm the exhause (secondary bypass) gives a nice pop!.

I've not yet managed to do the same on downshifts (ie matching revs) - I'd be interested to hear how you do this.

Equally, I find mine OK to use in D. Overall, mine is an excellent system when you drive flat-out; I only find it tricky when driving softly..

Any tips/hints received with great interest

 

FB

just read your post in more detail - there is no need to 'ease off the gas' on upshifts. I don't see the point in doing this on upshifts. But whatever floats your boat!

As for rev-matching on downshifts, this is a bit tricky, as there is very little time that drive is disengaged between the act of the downshift. It would be useful, as the rev change between gears is in the 1000 rpm ballpark, so engine braking (& the loss of tration that accompanies it) is a PITA.

 

Johnfm: You mentioned ATF level. I just had mine serviced and other than trusting my mechanic is there a way to check the ATF level---like a dip stick?

 

Claude

there is a clear plastic gauge on the side of the transmission, just where the filler tube is. The level on this was revised, and the level should now sit about 15mm over the MAX marking when the ATF fluid is 80 deg. The manual says you need a hammer, BUT if you get the oil nice and hot after a good drive, you won't be far off.

You will find it VERY difficult to see this gauge with all the underbody cladding, but if your engine tray is off, looking from under the RHS sill, just before the wheel arch. You will need a torch. You should be able to see the level gauge on hte side of the transmission housing. You don't need to jack the car up.

PS trusting your mechanic is a good way of working, but I know what you mean!

 

FYI On my 993 tip when i am accelerating max full throttle without backing off, there is still the talked about stall slipping while the trans locks. This slipping is there regardless of how i drive.

Pete.

 

Thanks to all for the response to my thread. I took her in to my mech to have the ATF changed today, just to make sure.

So, as to driving technique. Do you guys who always shift manually shift down decelerating to a traffic signal, or just let the tranny auto shift down just before stall, till you stop, then manually punch it to 1st in prep for the green?

Q2 - how many use the wheel mounted shift buttons vs the stick?

 

My tip shifting technique:

1. Downshift approaching stops only when I really need to stop in a hurry
2. Use the steering wheel mounted buttons when I am steering relatively straight, stick shifter when mid corner or on tight twisty road (too hard to find buttons while frantically wheel-twirling). Use buttons when relatively straight stretch so I can keep both hands on wheel.
3. While cruising around plant it in D ( "D" is for daydream )