Knocking noise from left rear... PSS-9?
#16
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Bob,
That might be the cause but hard to determine before I take it out...
Greg,
I checked that and it seems to be ok.
Thanks again for everyone I hope this gets solved in some way (some day)...
That might be the cause but hard to determine before I take it out...
Greg,
I checked that and it seems to be ok.
Thanks again for everyone I hope this gets solved in some way (some day)...
#17
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Originally posted by RT7
I'll keep my ears open when I drive it home for the first time. I picked up the car this afternoon.
I'll keep my ears open when I drive it home for the first time. I picked up the car this afternoon.
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Mine's been quiet for months, it only started now...
I'm leaning towards drop link/sway bar since driver's side drop link-sway connection was loose. Even though I've tightened it now it seems too much coincident, I'll have to check it again.
BTW, what's with the search, you can't find anything from there nowadays?
Is it just that we don't have old pages anymore (are they coming back)?
John D?
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Finn,
I think I'm the one with the knocking problem after install. It turned out the main nut on the strut shaft was not completely tight. Impact wrench took care of that.
Chuck,
I've had the adjustment **** too loose and too tight problem. I've been able to correct it by removing it, cleaning up everything, and reinstalling. It is very sensitive to the position on its shaft where you lock it down with the allen head lock screw.
The sway mount without dual locking rings is a problem. Basically, the load on the sway bar serves to tighten or loosen the mount when the bar pushes against the drop link. My left rear mount stays put with a single locking ring above the mount but the right rear gets unwound until it contact the wishbone. I need to put a locking collar beneath the sway mounts but there aren't really enough threads below the sway mount to get the ride height I like and have a second locking collar below the mount. I may look into different sway bar droplink mounts to solve the problem.
Ben
I think I'm the one with the knocking problem after install. It turned out the main nut on the strut shaft was not completely tight. Impact wrench took care of that.
Chuck,
I've had the adjustment **** too loose and too tight problem. I've been able to correct it by removing it, cleaning up everything, and reinstalling. It is very sensitive to the position on its shaft where you lock it down with the allen head lock screw.
The sway mount without dual locking rings is a problem. Basically, the load on the sway bar serves to tighten or loosen the mount when the bar pushes against the drop link. My left rear mount stays put with a single locking ring above the mount but the right rear gets unwound until it contact the wishbone. I need to put a locking collar beneath the sway mounts but there aren't really enough threads below the sway mount to get the ride height I like and have a second locking collar below the mount. I may look into different sway bar droplink mounts to solve the problem.
Ben
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Originally posted by Ben in Plano, TX
Finn,
I think I'm the one with the knocking problem after install. It turned out the main nut on the strut shaft was not completely tight. Impact wrench took care of that....
Finn,
I think I'm the one with the knocking problem after install. It turned out the main nut on the strut shaft was not completely tight. Impact wrench took care of that....
I tried that (you don't mean the really big nut that one has with monoballs, right?) but I don't have proper tools for that.
It seemed ok but since the shaft turns you can't ell fo sure. This is rear so there's no way of getting inpact wrecnh in there, I need on of those open sockets & allen key.
#20
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Originally posted by Chuck Price
Do you have double locking rings around the collar that attaches to the drop link? If not, it may be rotating when the spring loads and unloads, and the drop link can be knocking into the control arm that it wraps around. I had this problem, and had to take everything apart, and install a second locking ring. Now each has one above and one below the collar. Also, if you look at the control arm, you will see if the drop link is hitting it by some scraping marks. I have had to angle the collar slightly to allow enough clearance.
Do you have double locking rings around the collar that attaches to the drop link? If not, it may be rotating when the spring loads and unloads, and the drop link can be knocking into the control arm that it wraps around. I had this problem, and had to take everything apart, and install a second locking ring. Now each has one above and one below the collar. Also, if you look at the control arm, you will see if the drop link is hitting it by some scraping marks. I have had to angle the collar slightly to allow enough clearance.
This might be the case.
I don't have locking rings on bot sides, only above.
It's knocked tight and I marked it's position and it has stayed in same position. However, the drop link sway bar (in it's stiffest setting) is VERY close to the control arm...
I still have the plastic cover which I think would make the noise less "metallic" though.
I'll have try and adjust the sway to othewr position or take the drop links out and see whether the noise goes away...
#21
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Flying Finn,
I thought in a prevouis post you had already diagnosed the noise by checking the tightness of the upper shock mount? You need to start here. This is a likely culprit especially with the monoballs that will transmit any little metallic noise. Also, make sure the four monoball mounting screws are tight. You need to either get the Hazet socket, or get a deep well Craftsman and a dremel tool and cut an opening ala Hazet (1/2 the price). The Hazet allen wrench does come in handy here though.
You can diagnose the sway bar mount by just removing the one drop link and drive around. You don't need to move both mounting points.
good luck
I thought in a prevouis post you had already diagnosed the noise by checking the tightness of the upper shock mount? You need to start here. This is a likely culprit especially with the monoballs that will transmit any little metallic noise. Also, make sure the four monoball mounting screws are tight. You need to either get the Hazet socket, or get a deep well Craftsman and a dremel tool and cut an opening ala Hazet (1/2 the price). The Hazet allen wrench does come in handy here though.
You can diagnose the sway bar mount by just removing the one drop link and drive around. You don't need to move both mounting points.
good luck
#22
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Thanks Bob,
I checked it but since the shaft was turning (w/out that fance socket) I can't be 100% sure it's tight enough.
The shaft IS supposed to turn even if it's torqued to specs, correct?
I'll have to drop the left drop link and see if it's the noise maker.
I checked it but since the shaft was turning (w/out that fance socket) I can't be 100% sure it's tight enough.
The shaft IS supposed to turn even if it's torqued to specs, correct?
I'll have to drop the left drop link and see if it's the noise maker.
#23
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Rear suspension knocks are often sway bar related. Bob made a good suggestion: disconnect one drop link and drive around to see if that eliminates the noise.
Another diagnostic aid is to slowly jack up one side of the car, using the rear jacking point. This will put one side of the car in full droop and the other in full bump. While you are jacking it up, listen carefully for the knock. If this causes the knock, get an assistant. One person jacks the car up and down, while the other searches for the source of the sound.
Tom
’95 993.
Another diagnostic aid is to slowly jack up one side of the car, using the rear jacking point. This will put one side of the car in full droop and the other in full bump. While you are jacking it up, listen carefully for the knock. If this causes the knock, get an assistant. One person jacks the car up and down, while the other searches for the source of the sound.
Tom
’95 993.
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I think what Tom and Greg are saying maybe plausible. My mechanic has checked all nuts and bolts many times so we have ruled out this. The noise comes only on sharp road undulations like a speed bump for example. On normal conditions there is no noise and the assembly is working perfectly. Part of the reason why I still have the problem is that I'm mostly away and since I bought the race car I have been focusing on this instead of the cabrio. Some guys on the 964 board had the same and I'm not sure if they found the solution.
In any case good luck, please PM me if you find what it is.
In any case good luck, please PM me if you find what it is.
#26
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Does the noise come when both wheels hit the same bump, like going straight over a speed bump, or does the the noise occur when one wheel hits the bump and the other doesn't, like going diagonally into a driveway?
Tom
'95 993
Tom
'95 993
#27
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Originally posted by tom_993
Does the noise come when both wheels hit the same bump, like going straight over a speed bump, or does the the noise occur when one wheel hits the bump and the other doesn't, like going diagonally into a driveway?
Tom
'95 993
Does the noise come when both wheels hit the same bump, like going straight over a speed bump, or does the the noise occur when one wheel hits the bump and the other doesn't, like going diagonally into a driveway?
Tom
'95 993
I do it slowly, nothing, bumb needs to be quite "fast", best way to hear this (you can hear it easily, it's loud enough, and my rear self being only bare metal also makes it easy...) when you drive on rough road (not only one bumb). Sort of when car "shakes".
Danny,
When (I will search until this is solved) I found what this is, I'll defenately let you & others know.
#29
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Originally posted by tom_993
Probably not sway bar related then. Sway bar related noises occur when one wheel hits the bump and the other does not, thus twisting the sway bar.
Tom
'95 995
Probably not sway bar related then. Sway bar related noises occur when one wheel hits the bump and the other does not, thus twisting the sway bar.
Tom
'95 995
I disconnected the left drop link and the noise was still there...
I think I'll take my car ti the shop and let them find it.
#30
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Guys,
Little update here...
Shop has checked all the suspension mounts, bolts screws etc. with no luck.
They also checked the rear deckilid & wing, no luck...
They also has the car up at their alignment rack and tried to find the source, no luck...
Now the though is that it might be the shock itself, if that's gone bad (I've already had one adjustment "****" gone bad and now other is missing so it's not too hard for me to believe there might be something wrong w/ the Bilsteins...)
Ah, we'll see... At least I know now nothing's gonna drop from suspension etc. it's just that the noise is so annoying...
Little update here...
Shop has checked all the suspension mounts, bolts screws etc. with no luck.
They also checked the rear deckilid & wing, no luck...
They also has the car up at their alignment rack and tried to find the source, no luck...
Now the though is that it might be the shock itself, if that's gone bad (I've already had one adjustment "****" gone bad and now other is missing so it's not too hard for me to believe there might be something wrong w/ the Bilsteins...)
Ah, we'll see... At least I know now nothing's gonna drop from suspension etc. it's just that the noise is so annoying...