1997 993 Targa. I have replaced my original Monroes with Koni FSDs and in doing so I disconnected the brake lines on the front such that I did not need to make cut outs on the Koni's to install the brake lines. Quite a bit of brake fluid dripped out of the (front) brake lines while disconnected.

Now I have done the brake bleeding about 3 times, a lot of air bubbles came out of the (left) front in particular (very few on the rears) and so far I have added about 1.5L of brake fluid to flush it. Since no more bubbles came out and since I flushed it 3 times I thought i was good to go. I mounted the wheels and lowered my car from the jack stands and started the car (actually I needed to jump start since my battery was empty). I pressed on the brake pedal and it went right to the bottom, I pressed it several times but still goes the bottom.

So do I just continue bleeding as there is most likely more air in the system? I read about the ABS pump and the bosch hammer, do I need to do that? I also read somewhere on the forum one could activate the ABS pump by switching on the ignition?

thanks in advance for your reply.

Arthur

 

what year/model do you have?
have you bleed both inner and outter nipples?
do you have abs abd?

sounds like you didn't get all the air out, make sure you bleed in the correct order

 

1997 993 Targa. yes both nipples. And I tapped on the caliper with a wood hammer.

 

you must be allowing the rez to fall below, many use a pressure bleeder to force the fluid from the rez thru the line to the caliper pushing out the air bubbles. if you do not bleed in the correct sequence you may be chasing the bubbles around the system.

 

+1 If you have chased 1.5L through the system, you should have all the air out, unless you accidentally introduced more..

 

btw. I am using the motiv bleeder.

 

Btw. I am using the motiv bleeder.

 

Is it possible the pedal movement is the caliper moving the pads back in contact to the rotors? In other words, did you remove the pads/calipers during the suspension refresh?

 

I did not remove the pads.

 

I did do it in order RR,LR,RF,LF.

 

If your reservoir drained when your lines were disconnected then you introduced air into the abs pump. You won't get it all out with a simple bleed. The valves have to cycle while bleeding to get the air out. You don't have to have the Hammer, specifically, to do this. Your options are...

1 Bosch hammer
2 Pst2
3 An awesome device/software by two guys in ?Finland?... I don't recall the name. This one looks great actually.
4. Wire with alligator clips, abs pin diagram and a 12v battery. This worked for me.

5 ...Durametric? No, the current Durametric software will not do it, according to Durametric.

 

The reservoir remained half full.

 

jeriboo, did you find a diy for #4?

avdwaal, half full was the lowest it got, even before bleeding?

 

Yes it was half full when I started bleeding.

 

Every-so-often one reads about problems like this. Often an old-school bleed will take care of this. By that I mean get rid of the fancy technology and have your wife/girlfriend/buddy/kid sit in the driver's seat and pump the pedal while you bleed the brakes. You've likely got air trapped somewhere.

Pedal method:

Open bleeder screw. Slowly push brake pedal. When it reaches the bottom, close bleeder screw. Slowly allow pedal to return. Repeat.