jlenze

I am interested in doing a dry brake bleed on my early 993. I have heard that the overflow can be an issue with leaking and I do want to avoid that at all costs. If anyone has a step by step for bleeding that would be great.

Which method do you feel is better.

TIA Jack

Paul902

1. Fill brake fluid reservoir.
2. Attach Motive bleeder and pump up pressure.
3. Bleed right rear caliper, both inside and outside nipples.
4. Remove Motive bleeder.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 for left rear, right front, and left front calipers.
6. Top up brake fluid reservoir and reinstall cap.

Note the order is from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder to the closest. If you have a C4S or Turbo with an ABS pump, then you need to cycle that, too.

jscott82

Dry method is for pu$$ies...

Dry method:
1) Open reservoir
2) Polish reservoir cap
3) Remove all fluid with turkey baster
4) Polish turkey baster
5) Remove Passenger rear wheel
6) Polish Wheel
7) Fill reservoir to the brim with new fluid
8) Attach bleeder cap to reservoir
9) Torque bleeder cap to precisely 15ft/lbs
10) Pump bleeder to precisely 15 psi
11) Bleed inner pistons
12) Wait 2 seconds
13 ) Close bleed nipple
14) Disconnect bleeder
15) repeat steps 7 – 14, 400 hundred times
16) repeat steps 7 – 14 for outer nipple
17) polish caliper
18) polish wheel again
19) clean wheel well
20) perform steps 7 – 14 for Drivers Rear
21) perform steps 7 – 14 for Passenger Front
22) perform steps 7 – 14 for Drivers Front
23) Polish your tool
24) Have a nice glass of white wine
Total Time Spent: All Weekend

jscott82

I'm being obtuse because it is a popular method on this forum..... Someone has to stirr the pot around here...

Seriously though... Dry method makes a simple process difficult, as you have to continually check, recheck, and refill the fluid in the resivoir.

My Method,

1) Clean inside of the bleeder with a few shots of brake cleaner.
2) Empty fluid reservoir with a turkey baster, squirt the old fluid into the bleeder.
3) Swish it around to absorb any old water or dust (Brake fluid is hydroscopic).
4) Pump used fluid out of the bleeder and into an old soda bottle to clean out the bleeder hose too.
5) Fill bleeder with fresh fluid
6) Attach to the reservoir
7) Pump to around 15 psi
8) Jack up the rear of the car
9) Remove passenger rear wheel
10) Bleed inner nipple
11) While that is running, remove drivers rear wheel
12) Bleed outer nipple
13) Bleed Drivers Rear
14) While that is running replace passenger rear wheel
15) Replace Drivers rear wheel
16) Do the same for the front
17) Rinse out the bleeder with water... refer to step 3 to see why this is not crazy.
18) Have Beer (preferably the cheap 'merican kind)
Total Time Spent: 20 minutes.

Martin S.

Love this instructional protocol. I am already at step 23, having skipper 1 - 22. Bottoms up? It's 5:00 PM somewhere!!!! Obtuse and abstruse...two good word, albeit not interchangeable...ahhhh, the wine is kicking in!!!!

Dry method is for pu$$ies...

Dry method:
1) Open reservoir
2) Polish reservoir cap
3) Remove all fluid with turkey baster
4) Polish turkey baster
5) Remove Passenger rear wheel
6) Polish Wheel
7) Fill reservoir to the brim with new fluid
8) Attach bleeder cap to reservoir
9) Torque bleeder cap to precisely 15ft/lbs
10) Pump bleeder to precisely 15 psi
11) Bleed inner pistons
12) Wait 2 seconds
13 ) Close bleed nipple
14) Disconnect bleeder
15) repeat steps 7 – 14, 400 hundred times
16) repeat steps 7 – 14 for outer nipple
17) polish caliper
18) polish wheel again
19) clean wheel well
20) perform steps 7 – 14 for Drivers Rear
21) perform steps 7 – 14 for Passenger Front
22) perform steps 7 – 14 for Drivers Front
23) Polish your tool
24) Have a nice glass of white wine

crg53

Someone better tell the OP to pinch the overflow tube before he pumps the Motive bleeder up to 15lbs, or this will not be the dry "method". :-))

jscott82

Good Point...

Like This:

esses

Fancy clamp

jscott82

Thanks.. I keep it in a fur lined box....

ilko

What kind of fur do you use for the box, and size of the box please.

jscott82

Sorry OP for derailing your thread..

jlenze

Thanks for the very useful information. Looks like I will be doing a lot of cleaning and polishing of the lower section of my car this weekend. Thanks JSCOTT for the pic of the over flow tube clamp off device, a visual is always helpful when working on these cars especially for a new owner.

Jack

ntmatter

I had a car that I tracked pretty extensively, and the very best method I found was Speed Bleeders (speedbleeder.com). Use these to replace the stock bleeder caps and they can be loosened 1/2 turn and you can pump the brakes to push out fluid without sucking air back in. For a complete flush, use a turkey baster to suck out as much reservoir fluid as you can, replace with clean, then pump out to the right rear until it's flowing clean. Then do the other 3 wheels and you're done.

I'm not sure how the RL community feels about them, but I could replace pads and fluid on all 4 wheels in about an hour in a parking lot with minimal tools. Cost is about the same as a Motive bleeder.

Eurotrio

Jscott82 really enjoyed the step by step DIY ��

I actually disconnected and capped the overflow line. Ha I guess next tine just pinch it. BTW according to the service manual, the overflow line is only on 1995 vehicles.

Quadcammer

while true, porsche is a bit asinine about model years. My car, built in february 95, is titled as a 96, and yet it has the overflow.

My first brake fluid flush resulted in 1 pint of brake fluid on the floor as I went with what the manual said. that one sucked.