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Durametric, actuate the ABS and the 993 chassis cars . .

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Old 03-01-2014 | 10:42 AM
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Default Durametric, actuate the ABS and the 993 chassis cars . .

Can anyone confirm the Durametric Pro Version (or any other version) ability to actuate the ABS unit? The Durametric feature set of the product on their website isn't definitive which triggered an email to them asking the question.

Possibly someone here has first hand knowledge? I want to actuate the ABS unit for a complete brake fluid service ! (Sure ya do .......)
Old 03-01-2014 | 11:04 AM
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I spoke to a tech at Durametric about a month ago. He told me that they removed the ability to actuate ABS because the that particular program was unreliable. That is, it worked about 70% of the time. It is possible to a actuate the valves manually.

-JB
Old 03-01-2014 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jerbroo
I spoke to a tech at Durametric about a month ago. He told me that they removed the ability to actuate ABS because the that particular program was unreliable. That is, it worked about 70% of the time. It is possible to a actuate the valves manually. -JB
How do you do it manually?
Old 03-01-2014 | 11:23 AM
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That's what she said....

The old fashion way, actually using the brakes to the extent of invoking the ABS .... snow/limited
traction etc.

JB ...danke for the Durametric discussion detail ala actuation removal. Kinda takes some of the shine off of the Durametric....Kind of.


[QUOTE=NYC993;11176643]How do you do it manually?[/QUOTE]
Old 03-01-2014 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by M. Schneider
That's what she said.... The old fashion way, actually using the brakes to the extent of invoking the ABS .... snow/limited traction etc.
Ok, thanks, I wasn't sure if there is another stationary manual way. So what do you do? Flush, do ABS braking, flush again? How much brake fluid would go through in one flush?

On a related note, can you keep the wheels on to flush the brakes? The turbo twists seem to have wide enough openings.
Old 03-01-2014 | 11:45 AM
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The trigger for the ABS (system 5) is within a Hall Effect circuit, the trigger, is at the wheel. Maybe there's a mouse trap concoction to be fabricated as a substitute "trigger". With caution this would facilitate invoking the ABS pump unit for purposes of a thorough brake circuit flush.

Waxy build up of brake fluid within the ABS unit and subsequent unit failure is what I'm wanting to avoid.


PS. If we had ABS actuation control, what would a thorough ABS/brake system fluid flush procedure be? Step by step? Is there a TSB on this from PAG? Old wife's tale? A manual drain of the ABS unit; seems risky of contamination. I'm not looking for trouble, just want to respect the ABS units need for proper service . . . .
Old 03-01-2014 | 12:39 PM
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Mr Schneider,

Thank you for revisiting this dilemma.

I too have been wondering about a way to flush the ABS unit. I've read about the waxy spooge, and have also read where many P car dealers just change the ABS unit out rather than attempt to flush it.

This was the case in my coupe as the unit was changed out by the previous owner (CPO car) at 48K miles to the tune of $4,300. My coupe has the ABD option which utilizes the ABS pump at speeds under 35mph, so I'm keen to get more info on this. Not being familiar with electric braking components - I hereby subscribe.

Best Regards,

.
Old 03-01-2014 | 03:16 PM
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Jyster sent me this and I used it with success to actuate the valves while my son pumped the pedal slowly and I had only about 10 psi applied to the pressure bleeder. I would crack the bleeder, go to the boot and actuate the valves with an alligator clip. You must understand which valves do what so that when you open the bleeder you are actuating the appropriate valves. I could hear bubbles rushing out. I actually had my abs unit out on my bench to clean it. Actuating the valves at that time allowed chunks of trapped spooge to come out.

My car is ABS only, no ABD. That is, three channel not 4. So, I suggest you determine if this particular pin configuration will work.

Once the unit is out and cleaned, it's full of air. I went through about 8 liters of dot3 for flushing and then about 2liters of cheap dot4. I ran cheap dot4 for about two weeks, flushed again with ATE 200. No more spooge...

If your ABS light was on already, it will still be on. With All that done, you still have to have a piwis or that other device in order to run diagnostics. The system is disabled by design when the fault occurred. I believe, from reading (a lot) that it will not retest and enable ABS autatically.

So... ABS on my cat is still out, but the pedal feel is greatly improved. The local P shop said it would be about 2 hours labor to check the system and tun diag.

You cannot flush the system or even bleed it affectively with the wheels on. Each caliper has two bleed screws. The inner one is not accessible with wheels on.

Here is the message from jyster

Originally Posted by jstyer
Jeremy, Power is applied to pin 15 of the ABS unit. You will ground out the following pins back to the battery, depending on which valve you want to open. The valves are as follows: Pin 7: Inlet Valve Front Left Pin 6: Exhaust Valve Front Left Pin 8: Inlet Valve Front Right Pin 5: Exhaust Valve Front Right Pin 10: Inlet Valve Rear Pin 11: Exhaust Valve Rear My process in cleaning my ABS unit was to power up the valves on each circuit and blast high pressure air and brake cleaner through the system while the valves were open. Before you remove the ABS to try and give it a clean, I'd try to just supply power to the valves and see if they open. There's an audible click when they cycle open. It's quiet, but you can definitely hear it. Hope this helps man. Brake problems can be a real bitch on these cars. When I first got my car, I had it apart for weeks trying to sort out a totally failed brake system. It was definitely frustrating. In the future after you get it sorted, just remember to flush fluid 12-18 months. It seems like overkill, but it really helps the longevity and performance of these early ABS based braking systems. Keep me updated, as I'd like to see if you get the ABS unit back up and running. Regards, Justin
Old 03-01-2014 | 05:29 PM
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Is the car in Colorado?
Old 03-01-2014 | 08:09 PM
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If you have ABD, can you trigger ABS by loosing traction? i.e. put something slippery under wheels on one side and give it extra gas?
Old 03-01-2014 | 09:49 PM
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Water up the skid pad ..... yippy. ABD won't know what to make of it.

I'll reach out to Bosch for whatever service doc's are published. Possibly there's a ABS System 5 white paper or the like.
Old 03-02-2014 | 12:39 AM
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If anyone is in the Seattle area, I have a hacked up laptop that functions as a PST2 that will run the ABS pump. You can email me at reinerfink AT Hotmail dot com. ;-) if you want to drop by and run a bottle of fluid through the pump quickly.

-reiner
Old 03-02-2014 | 01:04 AM
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Man ... IF.. the Pacific West coast were any closer to the Atlantic Southeast....Dam! Thank you ...that's a dam nice offer.

Is there anyway to share Porsche's PST2 platform scheme? I have a couple of suitable used PC's which could be dedicated to task as PST2 units.

TIA

Cheers, Mike
Old 03-02-2014 | 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by M. Schneider
Is there anyway to share Porsche's PST2 platform scheme?
It requires a KTS-500 pcmcia card (I paid some crazy price like 700 euro for mine) and then needs the Porsche factory cable (not cheap either). Finally, getting the software to work was not easy either. This reminds me that I need to image that machine in case the HD dies, I don't want to go through the setup again.

-reiner
Old 03-02-2014 | 02:57 AM
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What's missing from the pst2 software that a diy guy would want, anything? There are complete units on ebay...

Right now, I need to run diag on my brake system (mentioned above). I would rather do it myself and spend money on the right device/software than have the local guys do it for me for $250. Call me crazy... I just want the satisfaction of fixing it myself.

Jb


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