jerbroo

Will you 993 engine experts watch this video of mine and tell me if the ticking is something I should be concerned about. It's sometimes louder than this and sometimes I can't distinguish it over the exhaust (LPMM). I've used my 24" flat blade to listen to various spots on the lower driver side valve cover. The upper valve cover is quiet. While I can here some ticking in there I can't quite distinguish which lifter it might be and it doesn't seem that loud using the screw driver method. I don't want to spend my time replacing them if there's really nothing significant to fix.

Some background...

'97 C2 Targa - 86K

The ticking started about 200mi prior to the oil and filter change.

Fresh oil (Shell Rotela Synthetic 5-40) and filters about 200mi ago. I chose 5-40 over 0-40 due to oil usage and mileage and the climate I'm in (Austin,TX). The oil was a little dirty and had signs of condensation on the tank plug. ...I've had the car a month.

No oil leaking when idling or just sitting and slightly higher than usual oil consumption. The gauge has dropped about 2-3 millimeters over the last 200 miles. I don't know what that translates to in volume consumed. It does, on occasion, puff a little oil smoke at start up. I want to do a top end rebuild this Summer - including the guides.



Thanks in advance everyone,
J

NYC993

Many here will tell you that you are using wrong oil. 15-50 is what you should be using.

NYC993

Can barely hear the ticking, but if you search "valve lifters" you will find many answers.

bcameron59

Also check for exhaust leaks,they can imitate ticking lifters. I notice your "ticking" seems louder when closer to some exhaust sounds.

A mechanics stethoscope is cheap and helps with diagnosis, the long wand picks up sound much more clearly than a screwdriver. Get one with a trumpet type accessory as well, this can help isolate vacuum leaks and could be used to check for exhaust leaks.

Also, many have found a heavier oil helps with lifter noise, reduces oil consumption in some cases, and also is recommended for warm climates.

lopro

change out your oil for 15-50.

ticking on one bank would be lifters

some reading ---> http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...er_Replacement

jerbroo

Thanks guys. I was fairly certain it was a lifter or lifters and have read everything about them since it started, including the P-car how-to. But, it's good to get opinion before throwing time and money at it. The ticking is pretty quiet in the video and I may have an exhaust leak on the LPmm as well.

jerbroo

I'll play dumb here... Why 15-50? Seems like a house divided on this.

pp000830

Normal sounds. Don't look too hard for love you may find her and she will be an expensive and unsatisfying date! You know the line, “accept the things I should not fix, have courage to fix the things I must and have the wisdom to know the difference”
Andy :-)

stace

I'm not touching the oil debate - this has been discussed in great detail. I do use Mobil 1 15-50.
But Jerbroo what makes you think you need a top end rebuild? If you do replace the guides be sure to NOT use OEM guides. They are too soft.

jerbroo

Top end rebuilt would be an opportunity to freshen up the motor. Guides, rings, valve job... At that point she will have 90k and 17 years on her and I am assuming noticeable loss in power from new. Not to mention a stock lifter(s) that may have collapsed or at least lost their seals. So, right now it's a question of live with the ticking until then or replace just the drivers side exhaust lifters now.

-jb

lopro

Compression test to be sure of engines performance.

lifters are only 28$ and if you can figure out which one(s) it is then just swap it out. If its from the lower bank then its not too hard to access.
The top covers are the harder ones to get to. Really its just a valve cover removal an replace the bolts on the cover.
I think it would be an enjoyable fix.

If you guides are warn then this is another story.

NYC993

Couple things to consider prior to rebuild...
1) is there significant oil consumption after trying a heavier oil.
2) have you done compression and leak-down
3) have you done all major services required at 60k and 90k miles (plugs, caps and rotors, filter, belts, tranny flush etc)?

I would try to figure out where the power loss is from.
90k miles is not that much, check out the 300k+ mile thread by Richard, who never had engine rebuild.

If you are going to pull the engine, consider if the clutch should be replaced, if not already.
Just my thoughts for why they are worth.

PRSWILL

Sounds like an exhaust leak... as stated above, it got a lot louder on the low end and didn't have that distinctive ticking sound- more of a plunky sound ( if that makes sense!) that you get when there's a small hole in the exhaust or possible the manifold is pulling away from the head slightly- maybe a gasket is worn. I'd check that before cracking into a top-end rebuild.

jerbroo

It's plunky and ticky... Two distinct sounds that are hard to differentiate on the video. The welds on the LPMM are pretty ugly and I wouldn't be surprised it there's a pin hole or two. This is all great info guys. Thanks

@lopro: That's a great price. Peilcan has them for $36 each. Where are you seeing them for $28?

bcameron59

He must mean $28 CANADIAN, because the loonie is so strong against the USD...