zooming993

Soon I will be installing the shocks and H&R springs shown below. I will be using the original shock mounts and the new drop links that came with the shocks. My question has to do with the two large washers which came with the rear shocks, do I need to use them? The other question has to do with the collars. I've noticed some use more the one collar per shock, do I need to install more then the one collar the shocks came with?

Thanks

Top-Gun

Good question, PO installed HD's and Eibachs on my car and I noticed the lack of a second collar below the drop link. I don't believe I've got enough room to get another collar in there with the car between RS and ROW sport. Interested to see responses from others.

zooming993

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

jstyer

A second collar beneath the droplink mount is HIGHLY recommended. If the mounts rotate, the droplink can become canted and snap when under load. You can get the collars from Bilstein.

IMO you do not need another collar on the front shocks. Between the spring tension, and the fact that the droplink doesn't rely on it, you should be good to go.

Garth S

The cup washer 'cups' the top of the rear bump stop as indicated. The second lock nut restricts any tendency of the drop link perch to rotate in either direction, as it will always be in a "tightening" mode against one of the lock nuts.
The last pic indicated the angle of the drop link when the suspension is at full droop: when installing, jack up the rear hub to place the hub center at regular ride height ...... then, the drop link will be correctly vertical.

Your choice - drill & thread two tie-wraps to lock the rear spring into correct alignment within the channel in the top perch. That way, it remains in that groove whenever the car is lifted ( as the spring obeys the law of gravity

There should be adequate space for the lock nut - with MO30 turbo rears shown, that gave 124mm rear height in my car - personally, I see no advantage for being lower in a street car.

I had previously installed the same H&R's - no probs with being 'low' .... cannot recall if I had to zip tie up the H&R rears, as their static height may be taller.

P-daddy

No need for zip tie with H&Rs. They're built with helper springs (coils near the top are closer together, and will fully compress under load).

C4S993

Nice tip, your method/solution to relieving the drop links of pre-loading much easier to achieve than crawling under the car. I failed to do this (PSS10) and had lots of noise over bumps. What height did you allow for your rear drop-link perch ? Did you go with the suggested 175mm ? If you had a collar above the perch, wouldn't that prevent the drop-link from rotating CW (as pictured) when drooped on a lift ?

zooming993

Thank you very much for the replies.

therossinator

I don't quite understand what you mean by this. When I put my HDs/M030s on that was one of the more challenging tasks. When I had my alignment done and my suspension was under weight and up in the air I just whacked on my drop link mount until the drop link was vertical. I wasn't able to get it perfect though.

Garth S

Easy to get it perfect!
OK - objective is to have the drop link vertical with the car at static ride height.
- reason is to minimize rotational torque on the mount from the drop link as the suspension height cycles ( compression & rebound), and force is transferred laterally from the other wheel when it decides to act counter to its partner.
installation - support car on lift ( or jack stands) .
- having previously measured the vertical from hub center to fender lip, and with wheel off, jack the hub vertically w. a floor jack, etc to restore that dimension ( caution - you will be at the point of jacking the car clear of the hoist).
- swing the drop link mount to permit vertical installation of the link.
- tighten the lock nut(s) & install link.

Done like dinner - to perfection.

therossinator

Did you find a set of collars?

zooming993

Unfortunately, no I did not. Most of the shops told me their waiting for a shipment from Germany. When I spoke to the Bilstein Tech. Rep. he insisted there was no need to install a collar nut under the drop link bracket. He went on to say if there was a problem with the bracket rotating Bilstein would have included a second nut. I don't plan on tracking the car so I'm thinking I'll just go without the second nut.

therossinator

I was asking because I picked up the spare set from my indy, I can send them to you if you want. PM me

JDB1

Just completed the Bilstein/H&R with new top mounts and have tested them for over 300 miles on a variety of road surfacies. I applied Permatex red to the threads after final height and corner weight adjustment. Marked the shock body, ARB mount and locking nut relationship with paint pen for future reference. Very pleased with this combination for the street. Used the same procedure on an earlier installation that was driven over 8000 miles with no loose or rotation changes, I fully expect the same results here.