I've got the 993 on a trickle charger and the charger assures me it is charging. However, it doesn't work. I've got several trickle chargers, a Battery tender, battery tender jr, and a BMW branded charger. None of them trickle charge on the 993. All of them work on the motorcycle or on the battery if disconnected from the car.

I presume I have a short somewhere. How do I go about locating the short?

Thoughts, suggestions, scathing comments?

I'll ask about oil weights and the utility of chipping the car in a later message (grin).

 

Have you removed the engine tray? This is a common problem too.

Seriously, how is the charger connected? At the terminal or through the cigarette lighter? If through the lighter, the 993 has an odd sized lighter that doesn't match up with other chargers. This is why I have the Porsche branded one.

 

I had the same problem on my 993 when I first got it - and had both a Battery Tender Jr and moved up to the Battery Tender - neither seemed to get to the 'green light' stage - so off on my search for some battery draw.

I subsequently found that I wasn't closing the bonnet enough to shut off the cargo light - and once I closed the bonnet farther, suddenly the battery would achieve the 'green light' status.

Just a thought; hope that's it. Good luck with the oil weight and chipping the car - I'd also inquire about tire brands and air pressure while you're at it!

 

Alas, the engine tray is off and I determined to run four (4) different tire brands and sizes on the car.

On to the less important things.

The battery tender is directly connected to the terminals. I've hooked via the cable attached to the terminals...the one included in the battery tender package and then directly to the dang terminals vial the clips.

I attempt to close the bonnet (if we have hoodies on this side of the pond, do thugs wear bonneties over the pond?) and the hood completely,leaving only a small space for the wire to escape. Come to think of it, I've never seen a light come on under the hood. I'll have to investigate that, too. My bet is that's not the drain, however. I'm not sure how to track it down, however. How does one find what is drawing current?

I've an after market stereo installed, and I'm beginning to wonder if that could be the drain. Something is preventing the damn charger (s) from getting the thing charged.

 

Here's a pretty good discurssion on chargers, drain, etc..... https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...n-problem.html

 

If the hood isn't completely closed and latched it triggers the interior dome lights to stay on and that is enough to drain and not charge…could be as simple as that

 

A quick way to check for a drain (if its large enough) is to hook up the charger when the battery is low, so the charging amps are high. Systematically unplug one fuse at a time while checking the charging amperage. If it jumps down drastically and sustained, something on that circuit is pulling power when it shouldnt be if the ignition is completely off. Sounds like you might have a large enough drain to try this.

 

a....just push the latch close with the hood open. Then try again with the charger. Just remember to open the latch (from inside the car) BEFORE shutting the hood, otherwise....

oh and what are the specs on the battery chargers you have...they may not charge a car battery properly if designed just for a motorcycle.

 

I accidently found the light under the bonnet to be on when I turned out the lights - and in a dark garage - observed light coming around the slight opening of the 1/2 shut bonnet - problem solved!

 

There is a connector in front of the carpet just to the right of the latch. If disconnected, the light in the frunk will stay off if the hood is open. However if the interior dome lights are activated (as in opening the door) the frunk light will illuminate. Still pretty functional. It could be disconnected and problem solved.

Just another way to deal with the light in the frunk.

 

I'll try making sure the trunk light is extinguished and if that fails to remedy the problem, I'll sell the car or attempt to isolate the problem.

 

"Sell the car" are ya outta your mind? This is a simple fix. I have had the deltran tenders for years. I keep my work motorcycle and the TT on it all of the time. Must be hard wired directly to battery with supplied pigtails. Make sure all doors are shut. I also lock my car with fob in garage. Found it helps the placebo effect that everything is the way it should be for optimum battery life. I have had car since Dec 06 and the present battery was installed April of 05. So almost 9 years of trouble free voltage tells me my OCD works.

You know what, I'm mistaken. There is a MAJOR problem with your car. I am sure it's not worth much of anything over salvaging it. I'll take it off your hands so you don't have to deal with it any longer. Always want to help a fellow RLer :-)

 

I would toss the charger you have and get a one amp charger with a float charge mode, they come with an extra cable you can attach to a cigarette lighter plug purchased from Radio Shack or simply cut off of a car cell phone charger. Plugs right into the lighter socket I made up one of these and it serves two functions. One it is a float (trickle) charger and if I leave the lights on and run the battery down it will charge it enough in three or four hours to start the car. Also have used it with my other cars if the battery was accidentally run down. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FUFo7AodkSYAFQ

 

PP000830, I believe that all he chargers I have are float chargers.

Overboosted, you'd hate the car. It is guard red, a cab, and everyone knows that the red cars are the slowest ones. Plus, you have to buy and use sunscreen. /grin

 

Oh, I thought it was the Arena Red Cab. Sorry :-)

And yes, the. Deltran "Battery Tenders" are trickle chargers. They are more than safe to leave on all of the time. The reason I say directly onto battery (as opposed to throught the lighter socket) is resistance alone from wiring will deminish some charging. I am not Tesla but it makes sense to me.