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To use a (clear coat 3m) bra or not? That is the question..

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Old 01-01-2014, 12:40 PM
  #16  
pcarrera993
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I had mine installed up to rearview mirrors (bumper, fenders, hood, side mirror). 4 years looks great.
Old 01-01-2014, 02:05 PM
  #17  
Martin S.
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Smile Car Bra? No Car Bra for me….

I had a car bra come undone (Don't go there you preverts!!!) at about 90 mph, on the track no less. Those lead clip ons really smart coming through the drivers window at 90 mph. Once I got the car stopped, the car Bra went into the trash bin. Bra for cars have so little going for them, in my opinion. They can come off at speed….they trap dirt that can degrade paint, they trap moisture. 3M is the only way to go…..check the references of the installer, see some of his/her work before you decide.

Now to the other Bras (Preverts), that is another discussion, better discussed in off topic.
Old 01-01-2014, 02:45 PM
  #18  
aviography
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^ I think the OP was only considering the clear film bra, not anything that just clips or slips on.
Old 01-01-2014, 04:43 PM
  #19  
Knight
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You def should do a full front end, esp if the car has original paint. The advancement in clear bra films have come a long way since the old days, when the orange peel finish was quite obvious.

The installer is also crucial as the 993 front fenders are one of the most challenging cars to do perfect, just imagine wrapping the full fender and around those curve headlights in one piece. Experience with 993s is a huge plus!

I've had my full front end wrapped for almost a year now, the difference vs. when I had a no protection is like night and day. Esp on a black car, the bumpers, low hood etc gets the peppered look pretty fast with plenty of highway driving.

+1 on Xpel Ultimate too!

This video illustrates the strength of today's stuff on the market.

Old 01-01-2014, 07:40 PM
  #20  
BradB
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I covered the entire hood, bumper, mirrors, rockers, behind all wheels and full front fenders. Love the clean look with almost no visible seams, to say nothing of the peace of mind.

Old 01-02-2014, 01:39 PM
  #21  
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Thank-you for the love on this thread aviography, Knight, NC TRACKRAT, Johnny_law, and scott watkins!

Originally Posted by csmab
My clear bra lines on my midnight blue are very hard to see. The key is to keep wax and polish from building up in the edges. Remember that scratches don't buff out on clear bra like paint if you cover the whole hood. Basically it all comes down to your preference. On a polar silver car they should be very hard to see as well. The lines are usually easier to see on dark colors.
csmab,

Paint protection film has come a long way. Certain films can now be buffed and polished. XPEL ULTIMATE's Self-Healing clear coat does all the work for you. Light scratches and swirl marks will self-mend and disappear.


Originally Posted by Knight
You def should do a full front end, esp if the car has original paint. The advancement in clear bra films have come a long way since the old days, when the orange peel finish was quite obvious.

The installer is also crucial as the 993 front fenders are one of the most challenging cars to do perfect, just imagine wrapping the full fender and around those curve headlights in one piece. Experience with 993s is a huge plus!

I've had my full front end wrapped for almost a year now, the difference vs. when I had a no protection is like night and day. Esp on a black car, the bumpers, low hood etc gets the peppered look pretty fast with plenty of highway driving.

+1 on Xpel Ultimate too!

This video illustrates the strength of today's stuff on the market.

http://youtu.be/c5vPbwez1kk
The paint protection film used in this YouTube video is XPEL ULTIMATE. He is one of our best installers in the NY area.
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Last edited by XPEL; 01-02-2014 at 01:40 PM. Reason: Link Format Broken
Old 01-02-2014, 01:54 PM
  #22  
cpdjfd107
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Rick Nelson at Unique auto care in Massachusetts did my entire front end, hood, fenders, bumper, mirrors, snd you would hard pressed to notice any lines. Like previously mentioned there will be a small seam around the round headlights when they wrap it but its barely noticeable and the self healing properties are the icing on the cake. Add heat and watch scratches fade away. +993 on xpel ultimate.
Old 01-02-2014, 02:19 PM
  #23  
Mark in Baltimore
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Originally Posted by Busta Rib
If you are going to apply a clear protectant, do the entire panel (hood, fender, etc), not a partial covering. You will get an unsightly line over time, which detracts from the car (visually and value) moreso than no protectant at all. Most shops will recommend this as well.
Although I agree that covering the whole hood is a very good idea, how does a seam detract from value?
Old 01-02-2014, 02:48 PM
  #24  
Spyder34
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I've used 3M and Xpel on past 'new' cars and it's great-- but do you also recommend putting it on a used car that already has a number of rock chips? In other words, does the film then accentuate the presence of the current chips, or is that outweighed by the benefit of eliminating any possible further chips by adding the film?
Old 01-02-2014, 03:02 PM
  #25  
cpdjfd107
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^^^ I had a lit of chips on the front. The solution is Dr. colorchip in your factory color then apply tge xpel..I can't say all of the chips disappeared, but it is very difficult to find them. I only know because I saw them prior.
Old 01-03-2014, 12:54 PM
  #26  
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Definitely cover the entire panel if your budget allows it. You will get UV fading over time on areas not covered, but it's minimal if not a daily driver. As for material, venture is old news IMHO, because it doesn't have a great durability. 3M has a lot of orange peel. Go with the more cutting edge films that are self-healing like XPEL Ultimate or Suntek TopCoat. Make sure to do a proper paint correction before applying the film so you basically have a pristine surface that's now preserved in time.
Old 01-03-2014, 12:57 PM
  #27  
911CabSteve
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Do the whole hood (no lines) and front bumper (area most prone to chips). I also did both front fenders 1/2 way up. The top of the fenders is the only part where I can barely see the plastic line. I track my car regularly and even for a street car, this is the best protection there is. I have no visible chips anywhere after at least 5-6 weekends of hard track use.. Without that clear coat, no way would I be able to say this (based on my paint chip experiences pre-film install). Plus the plastic film takes wax nicely and no one can even tell I have the film on it.. This is a no brainer..
Old 01-03-2014, 01:12 PM
  #28  
nathan1
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+1 on XPEL. Do the whole front bumper cover, whole hood, complete both front fenders, cowl, A-Pillar. While you are at it, replace the OEM stone guard on the quarters as that starts to look crummy. I also would do the windshield Clearplex as an OEM windshield is huge $$ and never as good once it has been replaced.

As an aside are you sure you have a 1998 993TT? Last year was 1997. Also Polar Silver was only offered in 1996, in 1997 it would have been a paint to sample color (L999) as Arctic Silver become the deFacto Silver on 993's. Enjoy!
Old 01-03-2014, 01:31 PM
  #29  
Spyder34
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Originally Posted by cpdjfd107
^^^ I had a lit of chips on the front. The solution is Dr. colorchip in your factory color then apply tge xpel..I can't say all of the chips disappeared, but it is very difficult to find them. I only know because I saw them prior.
Obviously a fan of Dr. Colorchip. I haven't used it but I take it blends well?

So have others done the same on a used car-- fix the chips first (as best you can), then apply the film? Anyone apply without fixing chips first?
Old 01-04-2014, 12:18 AM
  #30  
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Just go for the full hood (and the other areas being mentioned). I know, my 3M took some punishment from a big hit just past the half way point on the hood. However, the #1 priority should be XPEL on the windshield. The cost and problems with a windshiled replacement, not to mention being able to spend more time enjoying the drive rather than thinking about when you are going to hear that next little ping far outweigh touching up chips on the hood and bumper.



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