IMMOBILIZER!!!
#91
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
^^^ Thanks. Part(s) should be here tomorrow .. I also ordered a fuse box decal .. it goes on the inner lid surface so you can just flip up the lid and have a ready roadmap :-) Only six dollahs ... such a deal!
Another detail here is the section of foam you see on the new part covering the clip connector at the end of the wiring harness. That actually gets installed as well, it's there to protect that connection from dust/debris and facilitates tucking the connection under the bottom edge of the clutch assembly bracket.
Another detail here is the section of foam you see on the new part covering the clip connector at the end of the wiring harness. That actually gets installed as well, it's there to protect that connection from dust/debris and facilitates tucking the connection under the bottom edge of the clutch assembly bracket.
#92
II. If it's truly a no-start (starter action ok, but NO engine fire) then;
" a. The immobilizer ECU is not receiving the code signal from the remote.
b. There's a problem with the immobilizer ECU, but the immobilizer ECU is very reliable
and rarely if ever fails.
c. The alarm ECU may have a problem receiving the immobilizer command.
d. The DME ECM may not allow starting once it receives the immobilizer command."
Can I assume that the dual ignition coils are not getting voltage due to the Immobilizer ?
How can I test the dual coils for voltage during a failed start ?
Thanks,
1996 C4S (without clutch micro switch)
Warm starts are troublesome.
Always starts when eng cold, takes forever to re-start (cranks great but no start) when engine has warmed up (so far changed MAF, crank position sensor, cap+rotors, fuel rail fuel pressure reg, fuel filter & several new DME relays). Not yet changed: Cyl 3 head temp sensor. I am seeing quick 2-LEDS flashes on doors, rather than 1 Led flash. If armed with FOB, the alarm sounds after 10-15 mins, if I lock car with key, doors lock, but no ALARM.
" a. The immobilizer ECU is not receiving the code signal from the remote.
b. There's a problem with the immobilizer ECU, but the immobilizer ECU is very reliable
and rarely if ever fails.
c. The alarm ECU may have a problem receiving the immobilizer command.
d. The DME ECM may not allow starting once it receives the immobilizer command."
Can I assume that the dual ignition coils are not getting voltage due to the Immobilizer ?
How can I test the dual coils for voltage during a failed start ?
Thanks,
1996 C4S (without clutch micro switch)
Warm starts are troublesome.
Always starts when eng cold, takes forever to re-start (cranks great but no start) when engine has warmed up (so far changed MAF, crank position sensor, cap+rotors, fuel rail fuel pressure reg, fuel filter & several new DME relays). Not yet changed: Cyl 3 head temp sensor. I am seeing quick 2-LEDS flashes on doors, rather than 1 Led flash. If armed with FOB, the alarm sounds after 10-15 mins, if I lock car with key, doors lock, but no ALARM.
#93
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
A VERY late follow up. 8 years and 8K miles later ... the microswitch I replaced in 2013 .. failed today. Same symptoms .. immobilizer light on the dash goes out with a click of the key fob .. and nothing. I pulled the foot board, tie wrapped the switch shut .. and the car starts every time now. I think I'll leave that tie wrap on there this time. LOL
The following users liked this post:
kos11-12 (08-14-2022)
#94
Burning Brakes
A VERY late follow up. 8 years and 8K miles later ... the microswitch I replaced in 2013 .. failed today. Same symptoms .. immobilizer light on the dash goes out with a click of the key fob .. and nothing. I pulled the foot board, tie wrapped the switch shut .. and the car starts every time now. I think I'll leave that tie wrap on there this time. LOL
This might be the greatest closing to a thread by an OP i have seen in a while LOL
The following users liked this post:
kos11-12 (08-14-2022)