IMMOBILIZER!!!
#46
Micro-switches such as the one used for the clutch and cruise control
can be 'brought-back-to-life" electrically sometimes by spraying WD40
(or electrical contact spray) into the plunger and working the plunger in
and out.
Since a no-crank situation may occur the result of the clutch switch or the
immobilizer, one should carry a jumper for R61.
can be 'brought-back-to-life" electrically sometimes by spraying WD40
(or electrical contact spray) into the plunger and working the plunger in
and out.
Since a no-crank situation may occur the result of the clutch switch or the
immobilizer, one should carry a jumper for R61.
#47
Three Wheelin'
#48
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Micro-switches such as the one used for the clutch and cruise control
can be 'brought-back-to-life" electrically sometimes by spraying WD40
(or electrical contact spray) into the plunger and working the plunger in
and out.
Since a no-crank situation may occur the result of the clutch switch or the
immobilizer, one should carry a jumper for R61.
can be 'brought-back-to-life" electrically sometimes by spraying WD40
(or electrical contact spray) into the plunger and working the plunger in
and out.
Since a no-crank situation may occur the result of the clutch switch or the
immobilizer, one should carry a jumper for R61.
#49
Three Wheelin'
#50
"By 'jumper' you mean a couple of blade type connector ends with wire soldered between them like this?"
Yes, you were ahead us with the posted picture.
With that the car will always crank with the exception of a bad ignition
switch, wiring, or starter solenoid/motor and becomes an early 993
from the cranking standpoint.
Yes, you were ahead us with the posted picture.
With that the car will always crank with the exception of a bad ignition
switch, wiring, or starter solenoid/motor and becomes an early 993
from the cranking standpoint.
#51
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
#52
Jon Paul,
I knew if I didn't explain what that jumper was for it would come up!!! I removed the relay for the Fog Lights and installed the Jumper. The Jumper turns the Fog Lights on when you turn the Key and gives you Daytime Running Lights a requirement here in Canada eh!
Hope I have helped in some small way. . .
Lloyd
I knew if I didn't explain what that jumper was for it would come up!!! I removed the relay for the Fog Lights and installed the Jumper. The Jumper turns the Fog Lights on when you turn the Key and gives you Daytime Running Lights a requirement here in Canada eh!
Hope I have helped in some small way. . .
Lloyd
#53
Burning Brakes
Past discussions indicate that the '96 model year ECU can not be reprogrammed to deactivate the immobilizer with respect to starting the car without using the button/remote (or the key on-off code). Assuming all else is in order, would it be reasonable to leave above jumper in place, thereby bypassing the required activation by the immobilizer signal to the relay? If this is possible, the only issue would be the dash light remaining on until the immobilizer received the appropriate response to extinguish the dash light. Does the immobilizer control any other start functions like fuel pump, ignition, or other engine circuits? I would think this is too simple a solution, having not been brought up before.
Obviously, I have no issues at present; only future solutions when problems arise!
Thanks from a "non-wired" kinda guy!
Obviously, I have no issues at present; only future solutions when problems arise!
Thanks from a "non-wired" kinda guy!
#54
Three Wheelin'
If I understand what you're saying...that is NOT correct. The clean/dirty of the "exterior switch bar"...called the actuator...is not so important, so long as it is able to move freely when pressed/released. When the actuator is moved from the open to the closed position (by pressing the clutch in this case)...it causes the internal contacts to be pressed against each other...which SHOULD allow electrical current to flow through the contacts. But these contacts must be clean and uncorroded for proper current to flow. I know that's wordy...but I'm an engineer, an unfortunately...that's how we explain things.
#55
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Jon Paul,
I knew if I didn't explain what that jumper was for it would come up!!! I removed the relay for the Fog Lights and installed the Jumper. The Jumper turns the Fog Lights on when you turn the Key and gives you Daytime Running Lights a requirement here in Canada eh!
Hope I have helped in some small way. . .
Lloyd
I knew if I didn't explain what that jumper was for it would come up!!! I removed the relay for the Fog Lights and installed the Jumper. The Jumper turns the Fog Lights on when you turn the Key and gives you Daytime Running Lights a requirement here in Canada eh!
Hope I have helped in some small way. . .
Lloyd
If I understand what you're saying...that is NOT correct. The clean/dirty of the "exterior switch bar"...called the actuator...is not so important, so long as it is able to move freely when pressed/released. When the actuator is moved from the open to the closed position (by pressing the clutch in this case)...it causes the internal contacts to be pressed against each other...which SHOULD allow electrical current to flow through the contacts. But these contacts must be clean and uncorroded for proper current to flow. I know that's wordy...but I'm an engineer, an unfortunately...that's how we explain things.
So, car hasn't failed to start yet since I tie-wrapped the bar closed. Contact cleaner and a few other goodies are on their way from Amazon ...
I spoke again with Jesse at Sunset Porsche yesterday .. they're a bit stumped but we all came to the conclusion that whoever put the information in the PET to update it for model year changes in '97 didn't understand that the cruise control microswitch p/n 993 613 415 00 would remain for all years including '97 and on and the new switch .. p/n 993 613 416 00 was for the clutch safety cut-off system and should have generated a revised picture and qty of 1 for model year '97 and on ... BUT I will continue to 'test' the car through the week until my contact cleaner arrives and then, I'll remove the switch, check the part number, try and clean the plunger and any other contact areas I can see .. re-install it without the tie-wrap in place and do some further testing before ordering a new switch. I know some will question why I would not just leave the tie-wrap in place and be happy ... but I would prefer it to be correct. If that means $12 for contact cleaner and an hours work .. or even $60 for a switch ... it's worth it to me. Yesh, I Yam a Wonk!
#56
"Assuming all else is in order, would it be reasonable to leave above jumper in place, thereby bypassing the required activation by the immobilizer signal to the relay?"
Yes, and one then must always make sure the car is in neutral or the clutch is depressed when
starting.
"If this is possible, the only issue would be the dash light remaining on until the immobilizer received the appropriate response to extinguish the dash light."
Right.
"Does the immobilizer control any other start functions like fuel pump, ignition, or other engine circuits?"
It does, i.e. the DME ECM doesn't become active until it receives the command from the immobilizer.
Bypassing the R61 relay eliminates another level of security the late 993 has.
Yes, and one then must always make sure the car is in neutral or the clutch is depressed when
starting.
"If this is possible, the only issue would be the dash light remaining on until the immobilizer received the appropriate response to extinguish the dash light."
Right.
"Does the immobilizer control any other start functions like fuel pump, ignition, or other engine circuits?"
It does, i.e. the DME ECM doesn't become active until it receives the command from the immobilizer.
Bypassing the R61 relay eliminates another level of security the late 993 has.
#57
Drifting
"If this is possible, the only issue would be the dash light remaining on until the immobilizer received the appropriate response to extinguish the dash light."
You can always take out the bulb!
You can always take out the bulb!
#58
Agent Orange
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Great thread! Does this jumper work to bypass the immobilizer on '96 cars as well? I know they are a bit of an "odd man" in the 993 series when it comes to electrical and computer parts... Thanks!
#59
Burning Brakes
ilko: Based on Loren's response to my inquiry:
"Does the immobilizer control any other start functions like fuel pump, ignition, or other engine circuits?"
It does, i.e. the DME ECM doesn't become active until it receives the command from the immobilizer.
This indicates to me that the referenced jumper affects only the clutch switch and not other signals from the immobilizer that are required for starting. I guess there is no free lunch for '96 to eliminate this unit. The '96 ECU can not be reprogrammed, so I am told; but a later ECU, if found, can be installed and reprogrammed to bypass the immobilizer. I'm open for correction if in error!
"Does the immobilizer control any other start functions like fuel pump, ignition, or other engine circuits?"
It does, i.e. the DME ECM doesn't become active until it receives the command from the immobilizer.
This indicates to me that the referenced jumper affects only the clutch switch and not other signals from the immobilizer that are required for starting. I guess there is no free lunch for '96 to eliminate this unit. The '96 ECU can not be reprogrammed, so I am told; but a later ECU, if found, can be installed and reprogrammed to bypass the immobilizer. I'm open for correction if in error!
#60
"This indicates to me that the referenced jumper affects only the clutch switch and not other signals from the immobilizer that are required for starting. I guess there is no free lunch for '96 to eliminate this unit. The '96 ECU can not be reprogrammed, so I am told; but a later ECU, if found, can be installed and reprogrammed to bypass the immobilizer. I'm open for correction if in error!"
Totally correct!
Totally correct!