kflory

Will still comeback to this and do a cleaner solution, but this temporary solution, lets call it A-Sample/pre-alpha lets me play around with this. This strategy may also be useful for someone wanted to just replace the phone.

See 993 stereo and phone upgrade - Nexus 7 for details.

bigwedowee

Good morning I realize this is an old thread (very comprehensive though!), but I was searching for an original Porsche optioned Fujitsu cell phone, just like the one you replaced. Do you happen to still have it?

Thanks!

Ron

kflory

Yes, I do have it, but holding on to it as I have all of the OE parts labeled and stored with strict instructions to my kids to keep them with the car when I am dead

kflory

I did a refresh on my install and thought I would update the thread (also serves as my notes).

Objectives for the 2021 Refresh:

1) Replace/update tablet and improve power source
2) Integrate/hide TPMS into console
3) Replace what I thought was a blown rear speaker
4) Replace the front speaker grills, replace fiber fill with foam
5) Re-tune the cabin (as they our new Taycan was sounding better than the 993 and can't have that)

Implementation of the 2021 Refresh:

The Nexus tablet had died quite some time ago and could not find a good replacement that had a cellular data connection for the maps at the time, and got used to just using my iPhone, but decided it was time to address that as the iPad mini looked like a good fit size wise and had the cell connection. This also has the advantage that the TPMS only worked on iOS, so did not have that on the Android tablet.



Close up of HU and iPad.

Wide angle of entire da and iPad.

And Google Map (and Google assistant).

Music through the aux


I also updated the power source so that the tablet could get enough power while running that it did not need to be recharged. The original solution (2013) used has only a 2.5W USB power source and not enough to support the tablet with active cell connection and display, etc.

So to address both, I replaced the old USB power I had integrated with:
- Lightning adapter for iPad to 3.5 mm aux audio
- Car Power Adapter with both cigarettes light expansion and USB power

However, this Lightening audio adapter was limiting me to 7.5W, others may support 12W or even PD which was my intent but did not pan out with this one, and the 7.5W seems to be plenty (and I have a 24W solution in the door pocket with cables for both USB-C PD and lighting for fast charging for a phone or a GoPro or what have you on the road).

This also moved the TPMS to a switched source (as was cigarette lighter is not, so needed to pull it back a little when not in use so that it did not get power and drain the battery).


Picture of updated assembly reusing the inline fuse from the original 2013 upgrade...

Picture of updated assembly reusing the inline fuse from the original 2013 upgrade...

Picture of updated assembly reusing the inline fuse from the original 2013 upgrade. I had planned to also use a PD charger here, but did not pan out with the audio splitter.

I had assumed (yeah, I know) that it was blown, but after replacing them both and getting on the bench I realized that the solder on the inductor broke, I fixed it and put them in storage. (in case I do some day).


Updated picture, but not much different..

And from the original post...
Well the future is now and I did replace the fiber fill with foam cut to fit and also used these foam rings.



I wanted to re-tune the speakers as while a big improvement over the original Nokia, still a little bright for me and was definitely second class to our new Taycan.

This time I spent much more timing on the tuning to really dial it in (and in the end was definitely worth the effort).

I took measurements with fader @ F15, F10, F7, F5, F0, and R15, both with the windows up, and windows down. I spent a few days collecting data and analyzing it (and applying model offline in REW). I normally don't like relying on EQ much, but was critical here to really dial it in and deal with the cabin/door acoustics, response of the speakers in their location and effective enclosure (the doors in the case of the front speakers, nil in the back).

For simplicity I will just show the results here with the fader in the Front 7 position as that is the default I use for good balance between the front with some fill from the rear, but tuned for a happy medium to give me some range to adjust from F10-F5.

Here is before and after with the windows up:



Here is before and after with the windows down:



I am showing these with 1/1 filtering from REW, but also posted the 1/3 versions in the album here along with all the eq settings.

Overall much better. Again, much more aggressive with the EQ, but does sound much better and really tamed the high end.

Hope folks file this update is useful.

Kevin

PS: Other pimp my ride activities have included Blistein PSS10s and and full engine rebuild.

Paolo1

Amazing write up. I happen to have the rear shelf out for an unrelated purpose and thought it might make sense to replace the original Nokia speakers while things are apart. Do you have any suggestions on what your latest thinking is on speakers that would be "plug and play" no drilling, no trimming, no cutting of the car itself. I never use the stereo in the car, but I'd like to have the option. I know I'll never replicate the tube based pre-map in my vintage home system. I once visited the McIntosh factory in Binghamton and understand that they build a custom system for the Ford GT. Thank you.

kflory

These will fit in the bac, but I had to create grills. I ordered old speakers from L.A. Dismantlers, but in hindsight, I think I could have just got them from new Pelican (or the dealer).


And re-assembled (front view).

I used a Dremel with the new replace/re-enforced plastic cutting wheel, and just cut out the section for the tweeter (rear view).

And re-assembled (rear view).