help with remote / alarm problem
 

I have a 95 c2 with drive block and alarm (key is separated from the remote fob).
I haven't driven the car for a while so the bonnet is open and battery connected to charger and fully charged. I usually left the car unlocked (alarm deactivated) in the garage.

Last night I try to use the remote to lock and unlock the car. But there is nothing, the led on the door doesn't flash and door lock doesn't actuate. It is almost like the remote is for a different car. So I tried the other spare remote, make sure both remote has new battery, still nothing.

Then I get into the car, put key to position II and the remote fails to deactivate the drive block either so I couldn't start the car. Alarm is still deactivated at this point. However the central lock on the center console does lock and unlock from inside the car with no problem so I think the door lock mechanism itself is fine.

This morning, I really want to drive the car ;) so I swapped out the DME and also I have an old R61 starter relay which bypass the immobilizer (I have aftermarket chip). The car started as expected. I then shutoff the engine.

Next I tried using the key to manual lock and unlock from the door key hole because I haven't never done that before. Remember the alarm is still disarmed at this point. Locking the door manually did lock the door and also activated the alarm. The led on the door flashes also indicated that. Lucky for me to left the windows open, because when I try to manually unlock the car using the key, the alarm sounds and the only way to stop it is to pop the bonnet and unplug the battery. I would not be able to do that if the windows is up. But when I reconnect the battery the alarm will immediately sounds again :banghead:

But at least it seems the alarm unit itself is also working because I can arm the car using the key but it cannot be disarm. Its just the the signal from the remote is not reaching the alarm/immobilizer to arm and disarm?

So my questions are:
- how do I disarm the alarm now so I can reconnect the battery?
- any clue on why the remote is not working? I doubt both remote stop working at once because they both work before and the spare remote is in storage after verifying working right after I got the car....
- is there anyway to "reset" the alarm / immobilizer / key fob ?

I had the same issue where I needed to unplug the battery to shut off alarm. I was able to avoid this by reconnecting the battery (which will turn on the alarm) then unlocking and locking the door using my key. Please give it a try.

There is an emergency alarm/drive block bypass procedure in the owner's manual. It requires a timed sequence of locking/unlocking the door with the key then using the key in the ignition to enter the immobilizer code within two minutes. Then you can start the car and drive it. It has to be repeated again if the car is shut off. [I have tried this many times and never got it to work. Your results may be different.]

I have no suggestions for the other two questions.

I had this exact same thing a few weeks ago. In my case, the ignition switch hadn't returned all the way to position 1 (off.)
Try inserting your key and turning it to position 2. Wiggle it around a bit. Turn it back to position 1. Wiggle it around a bit. Make sure it is ALL THE WAY back to the left. Remove key. Re-connect battery. Push the remote button to silence the alarm.
It will work normally now. (At least it did for me.)

Thanks for all the suggestion folks.
So I'm in the process of re-programming (tuning) the fobs hoping that would fix my problem and I have some questions regarding the "on" and "off" key position when inputting the code. I got to the point where it is waiting for code input (immobilizer light on dash flashing). But I couldn't get the car to accept the code no matter how and i think it has to do with my key position and timing.

Referencing the following diagram from p-car.com:
http://p-car.com/diy/remote/1.jpg

- Is the off position at "0" all the way to the left? Some threads suggest don't turn all the way to the left but turn it enough so the dash lights turns off. For me the dash lights are off somewhere between 0 and I

- Is the "on" position I or II or somewhere in between?

- how long do I need to wait between inputting each digit? The issue is the instruction in the manual indicated that wait for 3 seconds for the immobilizer light to comes on again after each digit. But for me, the immobilizer light almost immediately comes on after the digit input.
To illustrate the issue, lets say the first digit is "2":
off-on-*-off-on
The instance where "*" is, if I delay for more than half a second the immobilizer light will comes on thinking that I already finish entering the first digit...

Any help appreciated. The fight with the immobilizer continues...:grr:

There are various procedural instructions floating around; which one are you using?
I can post what I have, but do not want to duplicate anything you may already have.
Are you currently using the Porsche 993 Workshop Manual procedure?

P.S. I see you have 126 posts on Rennlist, but seem disinterested in becomming a "member". As an owner of a 993 and an apparent "user", may I ask why?

I have reference both this thread and the manual. They are mostly the same except some uncertainty regarding the timing between each digit and the on-off position and I think that's where I'm having problem.

About the membership that's whole another story ;) I was once a member and then renewed but my status never changed. I thought there was a thread open by mod regarding some payment but I never got around to resolve that. So yes I'm a member but not displayed as a member. I don't want to get the impressing that I'm taking but not giving if that's what you meant.

I find a post here usually gets things done:
https://rennlist.com/forums/rennlist...sues-only-119/

I had the same problem as hchc in the original post. I disconnected the car battery for 30 seconds and when reconnected everything worked again.

Disconnecting the battery only worked twice. Then the immobilizer box failed completely and had to be replaced.

That's also an option.

http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-99...r-removal.html

http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-99...361815902.html

To David A
Do you want my old immobilizer? I have no use for it.

• Battery fully charged - 12.5 volts or greater when standing after just being charged?
• Are both the ground and the plus connections on the battery clean and good?
• Do the frunk, engine lid and dome lights all work properly?
• Are the batteries in your remotes fresh and the light on the fob illuminate when you press the button?
• Have

you read the attached and the notes on the third page?

Hope this helps.

I'm gonna ask a silly question...When did you last change the battery in your fob?
You may want to start there.

pp000830's posted procedure is spot on! Use it in good health.

Any chance the God Damn immobilizer can be thrown in the trash?
I'd be tickled to have a start button and proximity key fob/ alarm.
Should I have bought a new one instead of the 993 I wanted and looked for and finally found optioned "just right" except for that God Damn immobilizer.

An aside; Anyone see the 2010+ Panamera on Mecum Wednesday night that could not be started in the line for the auction block? Bet the folks didn't comprehend the God Damn immobilizer.