k722070

some track time on NT01's showed too much outside wear with rear camber at -2.1 so I ask NITTO, their tech support informed me camber range is from -2.5 to -5.
so my question is how much rear camber have people tried using?
at some point with 18x10 rear wheels and 275's I'm guessing the rear gets too loose when trying to put down power.
but is it at -3? or -3.5? maybe with NT01 its not until -4...

and does anyone know if there is a front to rear camber ratio rule of thumb?
so if I set the rear at -3 the front needs to be at least -3.5?

hoggel

Damn, I should have given you the tires I just took off the rear of my car. The outside 1/4 still had good tread but the inside rib corded.

Who aligns your car?

k722070

inside rib, what tires and how much camber?
my inside fronts at -2.5 actually increased tread due to all the slag not getting scrubbed off on the track.

air power was doing the alignment but they have gotten rid of all the non professional drivers and I'm the last regular person left. so I spent july learning how to do the alignment myself, couple track guys have helped out teaching me the process and said -2.25 all around but that was with the mpsc.

I could pay up and look big by handing over $600 for a day of race support to race co allowing me to make changes during the day but I don't think there will be enough time between sessions on monday.
I'm thinking of going with -3 all around and if it doesn't work rolling into one of the garages and paying for a change.

Juha G

It's very dependant on tires/suspension/chassis but to get best out of a semi slick tire you need a lot of camber.

I used to have -3 up front and -2.8 in rear, worked really well with Hoosier R6 and Toyo R888. 245+285
To make the car rotate you also want some toe out in the front and a little toe in in the rear. And don't forget about the kinematic toe...

Bill Verburg

Mine is at -2.7 in back, that is the most I can get w/o changing the arms to ERP, after ~1100 track mi this summer wear is good, I would like a little more though, the rear gets a little funky but doesn't let go when pressures get too high, I'm trying to keep them below 34psi

e9stibi

How do you like the NT01s?

Bill Verburg

Very much, I just wish that they came in 245/35 & 285/30.

k722070

thanks for the comments.
I think I'll leave it at -3 all around, that is still in the bottom quarter of the nitto suggested camber range.
I'll know after monday how the tires respond and what changes to make.

hoggel

I need increasing tread! I use MPSC at the track. I would have liked to be there with Lapping Days Monday. Bad timing for a nephew's wedding.

I don't know what the camber is now. Hillside in Murray was doing my alignment (with my kinematic toe tool) but the tech who knew how to do it is gone. The last time I took my car there the guy stripped the kinematic toe adjuster trying to adjust the toe. I have the measurement sheet at home but I don't trust it. The car now has oversteer that I think is due to half a friction patch on the rear. Hillside replaced the parts and gave me a new measurement sheet but it is not right.

In 2005 I put the RoW M030 on the car and lowered it to RS height. People in the know suggested Lee's Alignment on Redwood Rd. I called Lee's and asked if they knew how to align the 993 and the guy acted insulted, said he had aligned hundreds of Porsches. I marked the adjusters on the back and took the car to them. After their 'alignment' they had not put a tool anywhere on the rear suspension.

I can't take my car to Air Power. I have nothing against Les myself but a close friend would freak if he knew I took my car there. I don't know specifically what his problem is with Les but I have an idea. Think of two guys with Les's personality in the same room.

What are you using to do the alignment? I have been thinking about getting the alignment strings and a camber scale. I used to align my e30 with a vert/horiz laser and a steel ruler. It worked well enough for my speed in that car.

k722070

I have the same stories about paying someone to mess up my alignment, I finally figured I'd be saving money buying the tools. now its one of those things I wish I'd done years ago.

I have smart strings, worth every penny. after initial set up, practice and keeping a cheat sheet I can check toe in under 30 minutes. I have longacre's fancy digital castor/camber gauge from their blem catalog, great deals on nice products. no scales but I don't need to make any height adjustments. FD didn't have a kinematic gauge so I ordered one from gert.

I use the full redneck setup, bucket of water, clear tube and .79cent tiles to create a flat spot in my garage. that is the time consuming part, not just the first time making the measurements for the tiles, but getting the car in the correct spot, jacking it up to get tiles underneath, checking and rechecking.
but once the setup is done changing camber and toe is a breeze.
course then you have to drive around the block and start all over again.
at least I know it is done correctly.

Nader Fotouhi

I run about -2.5 front and -2.0 in the rear and have not noticed any issue with uneven wear with NT01s or R6. I have all solid suspension in the rear and run the 38 PSI hot.

k722070

that is interesting, I tired the 'high 30's' as nitto recommended and found the tires feeling balloonish under braking. ended up going f36 r38 to f34 r36 to finally f32 r35.

I think I have a solution, day garages are 50 bucks and supposedly level. renting one will allow me to make some changes during the day, maybe not exact camber but within 1 degree will be fine.
its a long day, scheduled for seven 25 minute sessions.

Van1

I use -2.5 front, -3.1 rear on MPSCs 235/40-285/30 at 37-38 psi hot and am very happy with the handling and wear. Before I did camber plates up front, I was at -1.9 front, 2.5 rear and I was cording tires on the outside long before the inners were worn.