Buy or run?!
#1
Buy or run?!
Hello everyone.
Would be keen to get your collective input. I've already posted about my search and had some invaluable advice, so thanks again and for bearing with me (and what a great community!).
By way of a quick recap, my budget is up to the $45k mark, and whatever I get will be a daily driver.
Mike's (mike993c2s) C2S that sold yesterday would have been perfect (https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...errerid=133998)... I just missed it as I wasn't able to check RL for 24 hours... you snooze you lose... (I know how you're feeling swesna!!!)
Coincidentally, I actually viewed and test drove another 993 C2S yesterday. It was an even higher mileage example (137k miles) but with an engine rebuild and clutch only a few thousand miles ago (though around 5-6 years ago) and the same owner from when the car was 11 months old, and an overall straight car (no crashes at least!). Sounded promising.
When I arrived to see it, however, it looked a little worse for wear...
The immediate things I noted as needing attention (with my untrained eye) were:
New seats/upholstery (leather in a bad way on drivers side and pretty bad on passenger... too much time in the sun?)
Replace steering wheel (leather really worn at the top)
replace gear stick
replace hand brake
Paint correction - reasonable condition, very few chips but lots of swirling)
clutch linkage? - slight slack-takeup feeling when depressing clutch pedal
windscreen (2 stone chips) and seal (a little cracked and perished)
drivers door seal
split and scratched front bumper (underside - split looks like it occurred after reversing back once the front bumper panel had caught on a kerb or something)
replacing wing body seals (both sides)
Re-glue drivers door sill
Replace headlamps (yellow/brown) - upgrade to Litronic?
18" wheels (currently on 17" Cups)
When will suspension need attention? (all original)
Haven't seen the service records yet, so not sure when brakes/rotors were last done)
Pictures I took can be seen here: http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0090009/ph...7634995413134/
The car was running when I arrived, and stalled twice when I reversed out of the driveway, though that could well have been me getting used to the throttle response and biting point. Also, the red warning light between 12-1 o'clock was on (the one with an arrow point at the spoiler) but this went out after I pulled off. Once out on the road, it felt good and tight, tracked straight, didn't pull under braking and sounded great!
Now, having slept on it, I'm wondering, if the price was right, whether this could be a reasonable 'mini' project car that I could use daily whilst improving?
What do y'all think?!
Specifically,
1. how much, ball park, do you think the above fixes might add up to
2. what would be a realistic price to offer, assuming there's no mechanical issues - I'm assuming I should have a PPI done...
Thanks all,
Fox
Would be keen to get your collective input. I've already posted about my search and had some invaluable advice, so thanks again and for bearing with me (and what a great community!).
By way of a quick recap, my budget is up to the $45k mark, and whatever I get will be a daily driver.
Mike's (mike993c2s) C2S that sold yesterday would have been perfect (https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...errerid=133998)... I just missed it as I wasn't able to check RL for 24 hours... you snooze you lose... (I know how you're feeling swesna!!!)
Coincidentally, I actually viewed and test drove another 993 C2S yesterday. It was an even higher mileage example (137k miles) but with an engine rebuild and clutch only a few thousand miles ago (though around 5-6 years ago) and the same owner from when the car was 11 months old, and an overall straight car (no crashes at least!). Sounded promising.
When I arrived to see it, however, it looked a little worse for wear...
The immediate things I noted as needing attention (with my untrained eye) were:
New seats/upholstery (leather in a bad way on drivers side and pretty bad on passenger... too much time in the sun?)
Replace steering wheel (leather really worn at the top)
replace gear stick
replace hand brake
Paint correction - reasonable condition, very few chips but lots of swirling)
clutch linkage? - slight slack-takeup feeling when depressing clutch pedal
windscreen (2 stone chips) and seal (a little cracked and perished)
drivers door seal
split and scratched front bumper (underside - split looks like it occurred after reversing back once the front bumper panel had caught on a kerb or something)
replacing wing body seals (both sides)
Re-glue drivers door sill
Replace headlamps (yellow/brown) - upgrade to Litronic?
18" wheels (currently on 17" Cups)
When will suspension need attention? (all original)
Haven't seen the service records yet, so not sure when brakes/rotors were last done)
Pictures I took can be seen here: http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0090009/ph...7634995413134/
The car was running when I arrived, and stalled twice when I reversed out of the driveway, though that could well have been me getting used to the throttle response and biting point. Also, the red warning light between 12-1 o'clock was on (the one with an arrow point at the spoiler) but this went out after I pulled off. Once out on the road, it felt good and tight, tracked straight, didn't pull under braking and sounded great!
Now, having slept on it, I'm wondering, if the price was right, whether this could be a reasonable 'mini' project car that I could use daily whilst improving?
What do y'all think?!
Specifically,
1. how much, ball park, do you think the above fixes might add up to
2. what would be a realistic price to offer, assuming there's no mechanical issues - I'm assuming I should have a PPI done...
Thanks all,
Fox
#3
Fwiw, my spoiler warning light always does the same thing, which I assume is normal but I've never checked with anyone.
I think the gearshift and handbrake are pretty ugly on these cars anyways, so I wouldn't mind an excuse to replace them.
Same goes for the bumper...take the chance to remove the bumperettes.
The poor condition of the seats would make me ask how well the rest of the car was cared for, but if you are satisfied the mechanicals were well maintained, then it would be a fun mini project.
I think the gearshift and handbrake are pretty ugly on these cars anyways, so I wouldn't mind an excuse to replace them.
Same goes for the bumper...take the chance to remove the bumperettes.
The poor condition of the seats would make me ask how well the rest of the car was cared for, but if you are satisfied the mechanicals were well maintained, then it would be a fun mini project.
#4
Run, don't walk, unless you like the idea of spending $15,000 to bring that one around. And then you'll have a $60,000 C2S that's been "rebuilt". Those are just WA estimates, but you get my drift. I'd rather spend it up front and know I don't have to deal with 'stuff' and have confidence I have a low mile version.
Have you looked at the Green C2 made into a monster RS? I'm thinking of buying that just to own it :-)
Have you looked at the Green C2 made into a monster RS? I'm thinking of buying that just to own it :-)
#6
The suspension needed attention 100k mi ago! That will be your big expense. But it does sound like this is a driver and would be a bit of work to bring back. For the right price.... Good luck.
#7
well, if a DD is what your after, you have to consider a car like this. Get more details on engine rebuild, clutch specs. Talk to this guys mechanic, etc.
*While the front seats look bad, it will be easy to find stock replacements that color.
*The shifter/e-brake look like they just might clean up.
*New headlight lenses are fairly cheap...$75ea-aftermarket HID kits $50
*a professional detail would probably do wonders for the paint/interior
*suspension will need to be done ASAP, probably motor mounts, and front control arm bushings too
Prize the mechanicals above all others, as door seals, interior pieces, etc...can be done at a reasonable cost.
A couple of years ago, this would have been a $28-30K car...now, I have no idea. If it passed a mechanical PPI, it would still be a good buy at low 30's.
Your $45K budget, lets you get into a much nicer "neighborhood" of car. While prices have certainly gone up since I bought back in 2010, that's still nice money to have at the ready. Have at the ready is the key phrase here. It's almost more of an investment of time, than money...finding a good example of one of these cars. Your still in the minority, wanting a 993 for a DD. Don't pass over a car because of a dirty Carfax, or paintwork...a mechanical wundercar could be lurking below those issues.
Back to the black S at hand...if it's priced right, it could be a good example. In it's current condition, unless it's fire sale priced-I don't imagine it's going anywhere fast.
So, more details please
*While the front seats look bad, it will be easy to find stock replacements that color.
*The shifter/e-brake look like they just might clean up.
*New headlight lenses are fairly cheap...$75ea-aftermarket HID kits $50
*a professional detail would probably do wonders for the paint/interior
*suspension will need to be done ASAP, probably motor mounts, and front control arm bushings too
Prize the mechanicals above all others, as door seals, interior pieces, etc...can be done at a reasonable cost.
A couple of years ago, this would have been a $28-30K car...now, I have no idea. If it passed a mechanical PPI, it would still be a good buy at low 30's.
Your $45K budget, lets you get into a much nicer "neighborhood" of car. While prices have certainly gone up since I bought back in 2010, that's still nice money to have at the ready. Have at the ready is the key phrase here. It's almost more of an investment of time, than money...finding a good example of one of these cars. Your still in the minority, wanting a 993 for a DD. Don't pass over a car because of a dirty Carfax, or paintwork...a mechanical wundercar could be lurking below those issues.
Back to the black S at hand...if it's priced right, it could be a good example. In it's current condition, unless it's fire sale priced-I don't imagine it's going anywhere fast.
So, more details please
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#8
I consider myself as tolerant. Usually, I'm the last one to RUN.
But looking at this car, the money you need to put in and the mileage, I'd say run...
You will easily spend thousands of $ for suspension, interior, and the rest... The bill increase fast!
Have the plugs, wiring etc have been changed?
Check the records and see if he changed oil periodically. It could inform you on the type of owner he is.
The car doesn't seem to be well maintainted. So what about everything you did not see?
Like other said, you will invest a lot of money but will still end up with a high mileage car.
For sure, make a PPI.
But looking at this car, the money you need to put in and the mileage, I'd say run...
You will easily spend thousands of $ for suspension, interior, and the rest... The bill increase fast!
Have the plugs, wiring etc have been changed?
Check the records and see if he changed oil periodically. It could inform you on the type of owner he is.
The car doesn't seem to be well maintainted. So what about everything you did not see?
Like other said, you will invest a lot of money but will still end up with a high mileage car.
For sure, make a PPI.
#10
You're talking about the possibility of a lot of time and money here...There are some nice cars out there that require very little, if any work. Unless you enjoy chasing down parts and doing the work or hiring the work done and waiting on it, you'll be much better off finding a car that has been properly maintained and updated as it has aged.
#11
I feel $45K is over the top too high to pay for a C2 993. Shouldn't a good C2 narrow body example with <80K miles in a private sale be in the low $30K range and an "s" for incrementally more? Not from a Porsche dealer or a hyper $$ inflated car enthusiast Pano guy who has unrealistic expectations as to what his car is worth. A $10K price difference pays for a lot of initial servicing and if you are a DIY kind 'a guy it will pay for several years of operating maintenance too.
Andy
Andy
Andy
Andy
#12
Put it this way, you buy a car like this for $X then put $Y into it bringing it up to your satisfaction. You've spent more than what a truly good low/lowish miler would have cost you today. But the stumbling point is that you don't have that much today. On the back end? Maybe things keep going nutso, and you get all of your money out. If so, what will that "good" car be worth in comparision? I'll guess way more.
(This car reminds me of my '79SC that was dumped in my lap 20 years ago. But it was a $5K buy, so that I had a bunch of effort to make it right left me whole three years later. Too bad people are paying stupid money for these things now.)
(This car reminds me of my '79SC that was dumped in my lap 20 years ago. But it was a $5K buy, so that I had a bunch of effort to make it right left me whole three years later. Too bad people are paying stupid money for these things now.)
#13
What's the asking price on this car? All the rest of the above is speculation until we know that. At $28K plus $10K to spruce it up, you'd have a nice C2S for not a lot of money. Much above $30K, though, and you'd be upside down after doing the suspension, interior, etc.
Also you should find out exactly what "engine rebuild" means.
Also you should find out exactly what "engine rebuild" means.
#14
One thing for sure...if the body is straight maybe having minor paint and body work done to it. There is no doubt the car would pop after a good paint correction. Professional detailers can make a cars paint really look nice these days. Swirling would be history especially if original paint.
If the so-called rebuild was a quality job...then most of the issues is just swapping out some parts. Might be a diamond in the ruff.
Again...depends on the price of the car and the quality of the rebuild.
If the so-called rebuild was a quality job...then most of the issues is just swapping out some parts. Might be a diamond in the ruff.
Again...depends on the price of the car and the quality of the rebuild.
#15
Funny I did not see the call out to me in your post when I originally read it. I am back in the game on Mike's car with deposit paid.
Just got a package from Pelican will be finishing my 964 engine drop this weekend. That will feel nice as long as the engine/trans does not drop on me.
Just got a package from Pelican will be finishing my 964 engine drop this weekend. That will feel nice as long as the engine/trans does not drop on me.