jbeachy

Race911 - so you're saying that is not something I should consider, I assume? It's a reputable shop, or so I thought, they've given me a ton of headaches the last couple of times I've been there though which makes we want to find another shop anyway.

Has anyone else heard of removing the catalytic converter in favor of a straight pipe?

In terms of other upgrades, I think I'm steering clear of seats for now because of the overall cost of two seats, harnesses, HANs, brackets, etc.

Bill Verburg

I removed the cat for 2 reasons
1) less weight at the extreme back end of the car
2) less heat

you do get somewhat better exhaust gas flow, how much is hard to say, but it's not big
it's more difficult to do this on the US OBD2 cars, '96 up

acao

I received my car with straight pipes. It's noisier. I doubt there's much HP to be gained, or if there is any gain at top end HP, there may be an offsetting (or greater) loss of torque at the low or mid range.

If your state does emissions testing, you will probably fail without catalytic converters. Or you may not. But if you fail, it can show up on your Carfax.

After taking delivery of my car, I put the cats back on so it could be inspected and registered. I suppose I could've taken them right back off after getting my sticker, but I'd have to do that rigmarole every year come inspection time.

That's not worth the schadenfreude of my exhaust setting off car alarms in my parking garage.

race911

It's where you are on the learning curve. Also, see Colin's post #27. The difference between the 315HP and the 300HP exhausts on the yellow car is under 2MPH (~75-to-~125) up the front straight at Thunderhill. While that might be valuable for wheel-to-wheel, it's nonsense to think that matters for even the highest, most absolutely top-of-the-top level driving.

NYC993

This would be my list
- Track tires so you stick better in the corners
- Better brakes so you can brake later for the corner (optional). Periodic flushing is a must.
- Track experience so you know when and how to brake for the turn
- More track experience so you know when to turn to stay on the line
- More track time to brake/downshift/turn/accelerate as smoothly as possible

race911

^^^^ Where is any 911 brake compromised?

Not to mention one of the worst things anyone below mid-intermediate can do is run a slick/R compound/"DOT100" stock class autocross special tire............

KaiB

Bass-akwards this is. Please reconsider your list.

justin993

Do all the normal rennlist mods... suspension, 18inch wheels, etc.

Then buy a 996 and butcher that car up for the track

NYC993

ahh geez, if you guys are such pros and know-it-all why not educate instead of posting smart @ss comments. Not all of us are race car drivers here.

Didn't say the brakes are compromised and didn't say R compounds, but if you can elaborate why running slicks is a bad idea that would help.

my list is not in any particular order, so not sure what is bass-akwards


All I was trying to say is that more time on the track is the best way to improve along with best tires brakes you can have.

KaiB

Money is best spent on fresh brake fluid, proper maintenance and track time. The cost of one set of fancy tires is greater than that of a really good coach for one day...you decide which will improve your skills and which will hinder your primary goal.

NYC993

Thanks KaiB. What about dedicated high performance tires a couple notches below the R-compound slicks? Tire rack seems to have a few choices or they all too hard core?

I was speaking from my very beginner experience. My street tires are old, not gripping that well and seemed to be the main limiting factor.

My brakes on the other hand are very strong (4S). Im not sure how much worse the base 993 brakes are, if at all. But as you mentioned pads should be considered. I wasn't necessarily saying one should go get a bigger brake kit.

Falcondrivr

The general consensus seems to be when you are driving at the limt of your tires consistently, then you go to a better tire. For me, when I had the Dunlop Star Specs screaming at me on every corner, while 4 wheel drifting at 100MPH, I switched to Hoosiers... I still worry that it might have been too soon.

KaiB

For a beginner, I'm partial to the Dunlop Star Spec Z1, as I know the tire.

Falcon - you made the right choice. Proof is the fact that you can feel the increase in grease as your tire pressure comes up a pound of two above optimal on the R6.

ppressle

+1 on the Dunlop Direzza Star spec Z1, but I think they have moved on to the Z2 now which apparently is softer and doesn't wear quite as well.

Bill Verburg

There's not that much difference in brake torque between the 3 oe 993 brake setups
in front 993tt and 993RS ~2306n-m @70bar line pressure
in back RS ~874n-m, 993 ~751n-m, tt ~624n-m

brake bias and thermal performance are the biggest differences
RS has most rear and best overall thermal balance, tt has the worst

I'd certainly use a track pad Pagid RS 29s or PFC97s both work great

993RS is is one of the best braking cars you will ever drive