Another 993 won't start thread
#1
Another 993 won't start thread
I've searched the forums and all over the net but can't find an answer.
My 95' 993 C2 sits in the garage unused most of the time. A few months ago I tried to start it up after about 6 months of non use. The engine kept cranking but would not turn over. After several tries I checked the engine compartment and discover that rats have gnawed on some of the wires. Thinking that some wires must have been broken I have it towed to the shop where they patch up some of the wires.
According to the shop none of the wires were cut, just bits of the insulation of a few wires were affected so they just taped up the damaged. The chewed up insulation was pretty minor and after they taped everything the car started right up.
I was able to use the car without incident a couple of times but after having it sit for another two to three months it won't start again. No more rat damage in the engine compartment this time.
Some things I've tried/checked:
1.) DME relay is fine, even opened it up to check condition of solder inside. Also tried my brand new DME relay but still no start.
2.) After a couple of cranks I can smell fuel so I guess I can say I'm getting fuel?
3.) I added about 3 gallons of fresh fuel to the tank that still had about 1/8 of old fuel just to rule out stale fuel.
4.) Replaced the crank position sensor but I'm unable to get a 993 part, it seems only the 996 part is available these days. The 996 part requires some sort of adapter to make it work with the 993. The adapter was not available when I bought the sensor so I decided to just DIY it.
Does anyone have more info on installing the adapter to get the 996 crank sensor with work on the 993 so I can work out which wire is suppose to go where? I afraid that I may have gotten it wrong with my DIY.
The sensor has 3 terminals, the middle terminal (#2) obviously will always be in the middle, I tried swapping the position of the two other terminals (#1 & #3) and I get a spark in one position (#3,#2,#1) but none in the other (#1,#2, #3).
Is it safe to assume that since I'm getting a spark in one position then the sensor is working fine and the terminal position that's giving me a spark (tried 3 plugs so far) is the correct arrangement of terminals?
5.) Any reason I have to check the gap of the crank sensor considering the sensor and flywheel has never been touched or replaced?
Any help would be appreciated.
My 95' 993 C2 sits in the garage unused most of the time. A few months ago I tried to start it up after about 6 months of non use. The engine kept cranking but would not turn over. After several tries I checked the engine compartment and discover that rats have gnawed on some of the wires. Thinking that some wires must have been broken I have it towed to the shop where they patch up some of the wires.
According to the shop none of the wires were cut, just bits of the insulation of a few wires were affected so they just taped up the damaged. The chewed up insulation was pretty minor and after they taped everything the car started right up.
I was able to use the car without incident a couple of times but after having it sit for another two to three months it won't start again. No more rat damage in the engine compartment this time.
Some things I've tried/checked:
1.) DME relay is fine, even opened it up to check condition of solder inside. Also tried my brand new DME relay but still no start.
2.) After a couple of cranks I can smell fuel so I guess I can say I'm getting fuel?
3.) I added about 3 gallons of fresh fuel to the tank that still had about 1/8 of old fuel just to rule out stale fuel.
4.) Replaced the crank position sensor but I'm unable to get a 993 part, it seems only the 996 part is available these days. The 996 part requires some sort of adapter to make it work with the 993. The adapter was not available when I bought the sensor so I decided to just DIY it.
Does anyone have more info on installing the adapter to get the 996 crank sensor with work on the 993 so I can work out which wire is suppose to go where? I afraid that I may have gotten it wrong with my DIY.
The sensor has 3 terminals, the middle terminal (#2) obviously will always be in the middle, I tried swapping the position of the two other terminals (#1 & #3) and I get a spark in one position (#3,#2,#1) but none in the other (#1,#2, #3).
Is it safe to assume that since I'm getting a spark in one position then the sensor is working fine and the terminal position that's giving me a spark (tried 3 plugs so far) is the correct arrangement of terminals?
5.) Any reason I have to check the gap of the crank sensor considering the sensor and flywheel has never been touched or replaced?
Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by tracke30m3; 06-08-2013 at 09:15 AM.
#2
Burning Brakes
In your post, item number 4 you say you replaced the crank sensor. But in number 5 you say you never replaced sensor. I'm confused. When you put the new one in did you check the gap? If you put a new one in you should check the gap with a feeler gauge. The correct spec. is 1mm +/- .2mm.
I do not know the answer for the wiring.
Pelican (no affiliation) has the adapter for $4.75 in stock.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...652-916-40-M14
I do not know the answer for the wiring.
Pelican (no affiliation) has the adapter for $4.75 in stock.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...652-916-40-M14
#3
Racer
I am a little confused by that too but also wanted to add how much I hate RATS!!!
I can't answer the question either, only to say I feel your pain. Good luck with your car.
I can't answer the question either, only to say I feel your pain. Good luck with your car.
#5
Sorry for the confusion, I meant the crank sensor was never replaced till now.
Specially since the car was running fine a few months ago, I don't see how the gap would go out of spec with the car just parked in the garage. I do get spark, does that confirm gap is within spec?
Is it possible to check the gap with the engine in place? There was hardly enough room to replace the sensor.
Specially since the car was running fine a few months ago, I don't see how the gap would go out of spec with the car just parked in the garage. I do get spark, does that confirm gap is within spec?
Is it possible to check the gap with the engine in place? There was hardly enough room to replace the sensor.