tctung

My 993 used to have a dead distributor (left side of the engine bay), but I could start the engine fine just like normal. When on the road, only abnormal things were (1) 30% power loss and (2) 30% more fuel consumption. My maint/repair shop checked and found it was because of an electronic component in the distributor dead (belt was fine). Shop sent my distributors assembly to a distributor specialist in Taipei and the guy fixed it in one day, only charged me $400. Knowing a new distributors assembly would cost me $3,200, I thought it was good $400 well spent.

As you cannot start your friend's car at all, or you can start it but it only gives you 15 to 20 seconds of idling, I believe you should check all the sensors and fuel pump first, and deal with that dead distributor later.

GwynnieMae

Did you swap the coil leads(small wires) or the plug wires that come out of the tops of the coils? Swapping the small lead wires will rule out having a bad coil. You have officially ruled out distributor, wires and plugs by doing that test. So what ever the problem is, it is upstream from the coils (assuming you did what I mentioned above). I don't know what tests to do now. The good thing is you're narrowing it down.

I don't know what that "sissing" sound is, but that doesn't sound right either.

Turbo

I've ordered a brand new set of coils.... so waiting to replace this unit

Yesterday, I removed the total air intake unit and cleaned everything on top and underneeth this shielding.
Also a terrible job to remove this with all the lines& cables...

A this point I could see into the intake ports...
I noticed on 2 intake ports that there was 1mm fluid (petrol) on the valve (valve was closed)..... so this would actually mean I have a dripping fuel injector.

so these cilinders are getting way to much petrol ....?

could this also be the problem in my case?

geolab

but I thought you already changed the coils ?

Turbo

Coils where second hand ones :-(

badabing

I've been following this thread closely. Any updates?

Turbo

Hello.... yes there are updates

This "no start" is turning into a real nightmare :-(

Received new coils today (Original Bosch)
Installed them and tried to start the car: NO START :-(

Began again with measuring all stuff:

DME is ok (bridge it also no result)
Coils are new
Rotors are replaced
Replaced distributor caps
Replaced dual distributor
Even filled the tank with brandnew fuel
Replaced the ignition module

If I now measure at the coils I have NO12V
So went one step back: at pin 1&6 from the ignition module and there I have 12V
Checked the wiring from the ignition module to the socket at the engine bay (location left in the box)
Checked the wiring from socket (engine bay) to connection coils also ok here.


So suddenly I have no 12V anymore on the coils....really are at the end of checking stuff now


Can someone help?

Rialas

Can't you take a temporary wire from the module which has 12v to the coils?
Sounds like a rodent job

Turbo

I could try that ... but that would not be a definitive solution

Rialas

At least you'll know if there is a break in the wire from these two points.
Before buying the new coils, was there power to the old ones, I guess yes?

Turbo

Yes before buying new coils I had power on both sides of the coils.

The ignition module under the seat was bad (only one side of the coils had 12V)

Then checked afterwards if there was spark.
Left distributor had Sparks right not ... swapped the short wires on the coils and the problem swapped so there I was sure I had a bad coil.

The only thing I did was empty the tank and filled it with new fuel and installed the new coils.

Car won't start and I now don't have 12V anymore at the coils

Rialas

Frustrating. Really don't know what else to suggest as I haven't been in the trade for years. We used to feed the coils 12v direct from battery when having issues in the past. But I would have thought it would start when you had power on even just 1 coil.

Turbo

Hello Rialas

I know.... really don't know what to do anymore

Turbo

Normally when the contact is on you should measure 12V between the 2 contacts of each coil

this means 12V between green wire & black wire = LEFT COIL
and 12V between green/red wire and black wire = RIGHT COIL

If I measure between these 2 points I have 0V


IF I measure green wire and take a ground as reference I have 12V
the same thing with the green/red wire.

So this means there is a interupt on the black wires when putting the key to contact position?

Anyone a idee

96PCarrera993mg

Check for continuity between the black wire and ground, if there's no continuity the ground is bad.

Also, have checked your ignition switch?