Kinesis Supercup 3 piece wheel rebuild DIY
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Well gents, I must pause here for a bit. As I was assembling the three pieces together I've noticed that the outer lip was off in fit by 1/8" of an inch. I will resume the build once I get a replacement with the correct fit, so hopefully by the end of the week. Stay tuned.
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Well gents, I must pause here for a bit. As I was assembling the three pieces together I've noticed that the outer lip was off in fit by 1/8" of an inch. I will resume the build once I get a replacement with the correct fit, so hopefully by the end of the week. Stay tuned.
Good thread so far.
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Take care!
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Take your three pieces (inner barrel, center piece, outer lip) and assemble them DRY. Line up up the bolt holes and if you need too, use a few philips head screw drivers inserted into the holes to help with alignment. DO NOT use any sealant, anti-seize, or RTV between the flanges. It is not necessary for properly sealing the halves together. Doing so will have you cursing in German the next time you have to service your wheels. Not only will the stuff will ooze out of every crevice, it'll be a bear to clean it off. Remember DRY ASSEMBLY ONLY.
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Once you're satisfied with the fit, you can start bolting it together. Do one nut/bolt combination at a time. Apply a little Loctite blue gel to the bolt, insert it into any hole, spin the nut on and torque the nut to 16 ft/lbs while counter holding the bolt (I use the gel loctite because it won't drip off during assembly). Now do another nut/bolt combo in the hole directly opposite from the one you just did and repeat in this manner with the rest of the nuts/bolts. This will ensure even torque around the wheel as the nuts are tightened. When all of the bolts are in and torqued, you're ready to apply the sealant between the halves.
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These bolts are pretty tough...I've reused ours four times with no issues. They are steel and they show no signs of corrosion. Not sure if other wheel manufacturers use one shot fasteners though.
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Using the sealant of your choice, apply a thin bead into the crevice(s) only. You just need enough to fill the space where the halves meet. No need to make it perfect since you'll be applying a second coat later.
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When the bead is applied, use your finger to smooth it into the crevice while taking the excess off. Don't worry about how sloppy it looks, you can wipe off the excess later and be careful with this stuff, it gets EVERYWHERE. Wipe up as you go. Remember, don't go nuts to make it look pretty, no one but you and the guy replacing your tire will see your mess/artwork...besides we have to apply one more coat anyway. Let it dry at least 24 hours.
#58
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Hello i have a question i read a post where u used Dow Corning 832 rtv silicon
for a wheel repair i have a wheel shop putting a set of wheels together and i gave them dow
corning to use and when they did the bead, its been 48 hrs and its stilly
tacky (sticky) not fully dried...any thoughts?
thanks in advance
for a wheel repair i have a wheel shop putting a set of wheels together and i gave them dow
corning to use and when they did the bead, its been 48 hrs and its stilly
tacky (sticky) not fully dried...any thoughts?
thanks in advance
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I'd refer this question to Dow. I've never had an issue with drying but I suspect any number of factors such as ambient temperature, the age of the product, or any cleaning agent residue on the mating surfaces may have an effect. I'd be curious to hear what develops with your situation, please keep me posted.